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deewee

Haier HWD1600 front load combo - draining issue and error 13

11 posts in this topic

I have a Haier HWD1600 front load combo unit that appears to have two issues:

 

- During a wash cycle, the unit will continue trying to drain for many minutes even though it has drained quite well.  Sometimes, after many minutes, it will move forward in the wash cycle, and other times it will not stop trying to drain.  How does the machine know when the water level is low enough to be considered drained and to move on with the cycle? 

 

- I am getting an error 13 in the dry cycle.  It is exactly the same issue that drkwoods was having in another post.  He said that he replaced PCB WD-5210-12 and that fixed the issue.  I wanted to confirm that it was in fact this part number (as there are a few PCBs for this unit) and also was wondering if there was a way to test the part before replacing it.  They run about $70 and I would like to try to confirm that this is the issue before buying one.  I am not sure if it is possible to contact this member.  Any help doing so would be appreciated.  Error 13 has to do with the heating of the unit.  My machine is heating well and the fan is running just fine, but the cycle stops after 15 minutes with an error 13 code.

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Here's some information from the Repair manual to put you in the right direction.

 

Er13
Failure information:

Sheathed Heating Elements or drying motor abnormity.
There are several reasons at it:
1. Thermal link is broken;

2.The connection between thermal link and wire is not suitable;

3. Sheathed heating elements is broken;

4. The connection between sheathed heating elements and wire is not suitable;
5. Thermostat is broken;

6. The connection between thermostat and wire is not suitable;

 

After you check all these items and find all to be in good working order your left with the following:

7.PCB is broken.

 

WD-5210-12 is a good part number

Edited by tpoindexter

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Thanks for the reply.  So, if my unit is heating up, then #s 1, 2, 3, 4 & 6 are not the problem.  Thermostat is probably not the problem unless it is not cutting out at too high of heat (which I think is unlikely because the heat that the unit is producing does not seem abnormally high).  Would you agree with this?  Any thoughts on the draining issue?

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Thanks for the reply.  So, if my unit is heating up, then #s 1, 2, 3, 4 & 6 are not the problem. I think  you need to check the connections at least.

Thermostat is probably not the problem unless it is not cutting out at too high of heat (which I think is unlikely because the heat that the unit is producing does not seem abnormally high).  You can use a meter and a hair dryer to check when the thermostat is opening and closing.

Would you agree with this? I think your going to end up replacing the board. But, I wouldn't be comfortable saying you need one without first checking the other items the manual says ro check.

Any thoughts on the draining issue? I think they may be connected. Need to do the troubleshooting and read other error codes and you'll start to see a relation between the 2 problems. Also, it'll show you a couple of things to check on the pump.

Be sure to check all your connections at the board also.

Here's the manual :

http://service.haier...ual HWD1600.pdf

Edited by tpoindexter

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Kohai, thanks for the help.  Continuity check tests good for the heating circuit.  There are two controls for this unit: WD-5210-11 PCB-control, and WD-5210-12 PCB-display.  Which one is the culprit (if it happens to be the "control")?  I am guessing that WD-5210-11 PCB-control is the part to replace, but another fellow in another post had the same problem and he said that he replaced WD-5210-12.  Maybe he made an error on stating the part he replaced, or maybe this is the one to replace.  What do you think?  After reading through the troubleshooting section, I see what you mean about the possibility of the two issues being related.  I hope you are right!  Good tips.

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Well, My guess is the WD-5210-12. I believe this is a PCB with display.

Here's my reason why. In the repair manual when it said replace pcb it showed a picture.

The picture appeared to be the one with the display.

 

 

Anyone else out there know which board?

 

Suggest you call Haier to confirm: Technical Support: (866) 814-3633

 

If you don't mind let us know when you get it going.

Edited by tpoindexter

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The unit is up and running again.  Here is what I did to get it working:

 

I called Haier to comfirm what PCB to replace.  I first spoke with someone in parts who was no help at all.  I called back and got tech support and spoke with a fellow who was great.  He told me that the PCB is able to detect poor air circulation through the condenser and that this will cause a code 13 to show.  He also said that this was a common problem on these units due to a build up of lint in the condenser (makes sense since there is not a lint trap.) 

 

I had noticed a few darks spots in the condenser but didn't think that it would be enough to cause a problem.  I decided to pull off the fan/heater housing so that I could access the top of the condenser, and I also pulled the drain hose from the bottom of the condenser.  When I pulled the hose, there was a large plug of lint right at this junction.  Also, I was able to pull quite a bit more out by using a piece of wire and running it through from top to bottom and vice versa.  Once I had done this, I got my garden hose with the spray attachement hooked up to it and blasted it down the top of the condenser to try to give it a "final rinse".  There was quite a bit of lint that came out, including a second large "plug".  At some point I remembered that the fellow from another post (who was having the same issue as I was, and had the same unit) had said that in addition to changing the PCB, he pulled out a lot of lint from the condenser...

 

Since the condenser had such a build up, I decided to open the fan/heater housing to make sure it was in good condition (since linty air flows through there also).  There was some lint stuck on all fins of the fan, but overall, it was in pretty good shape.  I doubt that this would have caused any issues.  I cleaned it up very well anyways, and put it all back together.  Et voila!

 

I learned a few other things from the tech support guy worth mentioning: the PCB knows when the water has drained because it is able to sense how much amperage the drain pump is drawing while in use.  Once the water level is low, and the pump is pushing some air, the amperage decreases to a certain level and the PCB knows that the water is drained.  The PCB is also able to sense the "balance" of the load.  If the laundry is all balled up, it will continue trying to make it more balanced before allow it to get up to a high speed spin, which needs to take place before moving on with the cycle.  The drain pump is running during all of this, and is normal.  It is common for balance issues with only one piece of clothing in the unit (which is what I was doing when experiencing what I thought was a draining issue (but really was a balance issue, I think). 

 

I have now run a couple of loads with no problems. 

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One more thing:  There are a couple more documents on the Haier service site (in addition to the service manual) that describe the different error codes and some possible troubleshooting techniques.  It is strange that what each of them has to say is quite different.  It is also strange that none of them bring up the lack-of-air-flow issue as a possible cause for code 13.  It would be nice if manufacturers would list ALL the "triggers" for a certain code in the service manual.  It might be impossible/impractical to list all the reasons that could lead to these triggers, but at least the people trying to fix them would have a good idea of how to figure it out. 

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One more thing:  There are a couple more documents on the Haier service site (in addition to the service manual) that describe the different error codes and some possible troubleshooting techniques.  It is strange that what each of them has to say is quite different.  It is also strange that none of them bring up the lack-of-air-flow issue as a possible cause for code 13.  It would be nice if manufacturers would list ALL the "triggers" for a certain code in the service manual.  It might be impossible/impractical to list all the reasons that could lead to these triggers, but at least the people trying to fix them would have a good idea of how to figure it out. 

This is great information deewee. You did a brilliant job in troubleshooting this and getting to the bottom of the issue.

 

My thoughts are the same as yours about the information would have been great if it had been provided in a bullten or something on the website.

 

Thanks so much for coming back and updating us on your results. I promise you that your update will be extremly valuable to others in the future.

 

Again, Awesome job and update.

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Kohai, it was in part to your tips that the issue got resolved.  Thanks again. 

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Nice work, lint plugs are most common issue with these units, and the manuals "truly doth sucketh" I had one today where the service manual mixed up the warm and hot water symbols. I really hate it when the service manual or wiring diagram is wrong. Makes me want to kick someone in the "nads about a 1000 times.

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