I HAVE A KENMORE 65513593K600 WHICH I RECENTLY REPLACED THE TOUCHPAD. WHEN I STARTED IT UP AND RAN THROUGH THE CYCLE IT GOT VERY HOT (TOO HOT). I AM NOW THINKING THAT IS WHAT CAUSED THE FAILURE. WHAT WOULD CAUSE THE HEATING ELEMENT TO GO ABOVE TEMP?
KENMORE DISHWASHER 65513593K600 GETS TOO HOTtoo hot
Posted 01 August 2013 - 10:43 AM
Could be a shorted operating thermostat located under the tub on the motor sump P/N 8193776. That thermostat is responsible for regulating the water temperature around 145 degrees. There is also a high limit thermostat on the bottom right of the tub that serves as a safety P/N 661566. Make sure the heating element is not shorted to ground and check for any damaged wires. That's a good dishwasher manufactured by Whirlpool for Sears and well worth the repair.
Posted 16 May 2014 - 12:33 PM
I have replaced my dishwasher control panel after a few uses of the dishwasher it broke again. I think based on the amount of steam that its coming out of teh front vent it's getting too hot and shorting out the touch panel. The limit control near the control panel is fine. I hate to be a part replacer but what else should I try ?
Posted 16 May 2014 - 02:26 PM
Overheating of the wash water would coincide with a much longer wash cycle, possibly continuous. This is governed by the operating thermistor located at the base of the sump. Have you determined for sure that the new touch control is indeed bad, and what are your present symptoms?
Posted 16 May 2014 - 02:32 PM
power to panel is fine but none of the buttons work. The high limit by panel tested fine on OHM meter and I even jumped it out to see if it would start. When I put in the new panel it works for a few cycles then went dead again.
. The steam out of the vent is extremly hot. Is there a way to test the thermistor and is there any type of reset on the panel control?
Any help is appreciated.
Posted 22 May 2014 - 02:40 PM
how do I check to see if heating element is OK could this cause the over heating?
Posted 23 May 2014 - 01:03 PM
Element should be fine, but there may be a stuck heater relay on the main control or a possible short at the L1 and neutral connector. I would think this would blow the control fuse but still worth checking. May also want to inspect the power box for loose or damaged connections.
The sump thermistor (P/N 8193776) will most likely show closed when checked with an ohmmeter, but doesn't guarantee that it will cycle off the element.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users