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LG WM1814CW PF error code


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11 replies to this topic

#1 wdchopper

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 07:40 PM

This machine has started giving me the PF code at various times throughout the cycles.  Sometimes it is right at the beginning, sometimes in the middle of a cycle.  I have turned the power off and powered up again...it will go back into a PF error.  

   The outlet seems to be fine....I have used it here for several years.   Just to be sure I ran an electrical cord to another outlet on another circuit.  Same problem.  

   I finally decided to replace the main circuit board....still same problem.   

 

Suggestions?

 

 



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#2 MicaBay

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 09:34 PM

Check all the wires between the control board and the outlet. Is the outlet you used with the extension cord on the same circuit as your laundry circuit?

Do you have ANY electrical "Ghosts" in your house?

#3 wdchopper

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 11:11 PM

Two different circuits.  I ran it to a third one also.   I am not sure what a "ghost" is....but I don't think so.  All the wires appear in good shape...no frays, still well wrapped....the grounds are solidly attached in the machine.  



#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 August 2013 - 07:11 AM

Check the wire harness connections to and from the noise filter, in the wire harness connector from the noise filter to the main PCB and at the main PCB.  Wiggle these harnesses while you check them.  I suspect one of the connections is loose or a wire is broken and the connection is broken when the washer ramps up into spin and starts moving around more.  



#5 MicaBay

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Posted 02 August 2013 - 09:17 AM

TVs randomly shutting off, lights flickering, alarm clocks not keeping time. Essentially, Im trying to see if this is external of the appliance. Only ask because we have had multiply customers this month who casually mentioned these fact after we had been searching for the aboved mentioned from Samurai.

#6 wdchopper

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Posted 02 August 2013 - 09:20 AM

Checked all the connections...checked each wire individually into each connection.  All appear to be fine....no sign of wear and not loose.   The PF failure is not entirely random.

 On the "Cotton and Towel and the Delicate" cycles the machine runs until the spin starts really picking up, then the failure.  It takes about 20 minutes. After the PF failure all the lights go on and off 5 times with a beep.

 On the "NOrmal" cycle the drum starts to move and then the failure happens, within the first 10 seconds each time.  No flashing lights and no beep.  

 

You know, life is way easier when something just lights on fire and smoke.  Ahhhhhh, there's the problem.


Micabay,   no problems with any other power in the house.



#7 wdchopper

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 10:46 AM

Any ideas?



#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 03:18 PM

Channeling Brother john63, Appliantological professor of all things LG:

 

These can be difficult to trace/identify fault.
 
The fact that the "PF" error occurs during periods in which the Motor is running---seems a strong indicator of a failing (damaged) wire---at the Motor.
 
I'd be tempted to test each strand of wire on the WIRE HARNESS (6877ER1016B)---but this washer is an older model (problably 2004/2005)---it's easier to simply replace the Wire Harness and run the machine through a test cycle.
 
If this proves to be the solution---I'd then replace the HALL EFFECT SENSOR as well.
 
Today---I had an LG WM2077HW washer with an error "dE".
 
After verifying voltage to the door lock from the Main Board---and then replacing the Door Lock Assy (no success)---it became obvious that this was a broke/damaged wire.
 
The culprit was the *red* wire which runs/routes to the Tub Heater (part of the same circuit).
 
Just as the other harness at the back of the washer (6877ER1016B)---there's a point on the base of the washer---that the front wire looms are secured with a "zip tie".
 
It was at this location that the red wire had broken apart---due to years of moving up/down and sideways.
 
It can be difficult to visually find the break---since the small section of the wires that are secured to the base are also wrapped in white-colored electrical tape.
 
Rather than order an entire wire harness---I was able to splice/repair the broken red wire/wrap with electrical tape and re-secure the loom.
 
Good to go:)
 

 

 



#9 wdchopper

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 06:10 PM

OK.   I have a friend coming over tomorrow who can test the wires.  I have pulled the motor wire harness and will test each wire.  If there is an issue with any wire (they all look ok), then I will order a new harness and a new "hall effect sensor", whatever the heck that is!

 

If that is not the issue.....I suspect that I will need to test every wire in every harness all over the machine.  Is there a check down list on where to start?

 

I appreciate the time!  I don't want to commit financial hari kiri and get a new washer!



#10 wdchopper

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 07:40 PM

ALRIGHT!!!   I check continuity on every wire on every harness and they all check out.   Not encouraging.  I decide to test the machine again on Normal cycle....and it starts up fine.   Then I notice that I had not reconnected the "hall effects sensor".  So, I pause the machine and grab the wiring without unplugging the machine.   OOPS!   After my nasty shock I now know that there is an issue with the wiring to the hall effects sensor.  I remove the thing and notice that the insulation has worn off part of the blue wire due to rubbing on the housing of the machine.  The damn thing has been shorting out at this point.   

 

I can easily tape the whole thing up properly and close it up.  That would be quick and easy.  Or, is it simply wise to replace the sensor due to age and go from there?



#11 wdchopper

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Posted 15 August 2013 - 07:58 PM

The machine is working fine!   My wife says she loves you guys and supports donating to the Beer Fund...."with gusto".

 

Thanks again, Sensei!



#12 john63

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Posted 15 August 2013 - 11:36 PM

Good job:)

 

Usually the WIRE HARNESS (6877ER1016B) will have damage *internally*---and not show signs of chaffing.

 

Older HALL EFFECT SENSORS (also called Rotor Position Sensor)---were prone to damage from overuse of detergent (resistor fails).

 

In some instances---the original sensor may be "weak" prior to outright failure---causing frequent "LE" error---even with correct detergent dosage or growling/grinding motor noise.

 

The currently-used Hall Effect Sensor (6501KW2001A)---will likely never fail.

 

Good insurance to replace both at the same time.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"




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