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frunch

Frigidaire LTF2140FS2 front-load washer not spinning or draining

10 posts in this topic

Howdy all,

I'm having trouble with a Frigidaire front-load washing machine, here are the symptoms:

-With the Program dial turned to Drain/Spin and the start button pressed, I hear the door latch make a brief buzz sound and lock the door. The washer does not drain water, nor do I hear the hum of the drain pump.

-After the machine is run on the Drain/Spin cycle for 3-5 seconds, the 'No Spin' light comes on above the Spin button (where High, Medium, Low, and No Spin options can be selected)

-After the 'No Spin' light comes on, if the Cancel button is pressed, the door unlocks within a second or 2. I saw in the Samurai's video that the quick unlocking of the door as such may be indicating a bad door lock/latch mechanism. I'm tempted to get a new latch mech just to see if that fixes it, but figured I should check here before I shell out the $.

Not really sure where to go from here, so I'd appreciate any assistance you folks can provide!

Again, the model # is LTF2140FS2.

Thanks for any and all help and suggestions!
Trevor

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Thanks for the prompt response! I could not access the drain pump, unfortunately--there is a dryer on top of the washer, and I didn't have a helper available. I know on the older Frigidaire front loaders there was an access panel at the bottom could be removed to access the pump, but this one apparently requires the whole front panel to be removed, which I haven't had the pleasure of doing on one of these yet. I did check for error codes as you suggested (thanks for the link, I never could understand how the Frigidaire error codes work!)...as far as I can tell the error code is 23. The right-most set of lights blinked twice, and the light over the start button blinked 3 times. Not sure what that code may be indicating, any ideas?

 

Thanks for your help and suggestions! Please let me know if there's anything else I can do to help narrow down the suspects...

Trevor

P.S. I know I should check for voltage down at the pump, can anyone tell me how to remove the front panel on these washers?

Edited by frunch

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E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed, wire off pump or pump defective.

Replace console control board, wire, or pump.

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2754548
Drain-Pump-137221600-01078622.jpg

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1464889
Main-Control-Board-137005000-00663826.jp

 

service manual

http://appliantology.org/files/file/232-frigidaire-washer-fl-knobs-buttons-5995413084/

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If you can get around to the back of the machine, you can reach the pump thru the back panel.  Wear a long sleeve jacket to protect your arms from getting sliced up on the opening.

 

You should be able to check to see if you're getting voltage to the pump and if not you can attach a cheater cord to the pump to check it's operation.  If you find that the pump is the issue you can remove the pump from the back, it's not the funnest access but it sure beats taking the dryer down and removing the front.

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Thanks for the link, RegUS and thanks for the tip Budget! I'm going to grab the manual and I'll first try to checking the pump from the back--that is a great tip! I'll have a chance to check the washer out over the weekend, so I'll update my progress after I give it a whirl.


Thanks again guys!

Trevor

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Had a chance to take a look at the washer this past weekend. There were 6 screws holding the back panel on, which once removed gave access to the pump and the electrical connector to the pump was easily accessible. There is 120v at the connector to the pump when testing in the spin cycle, so it looks like the pump will need to be replaced. I'll have the pump soon and I will post an update when I get the chance to install it. Thanks again for all the help!

Trevor

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... There is 120v at the connector to the pump when testing in the spin cycle

voltage measured with the Pump still connected ?

(should be)

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 There is 120v at the connector to the pump when testing in the spin cycle, so it looks like the pump will need to be replaced. I'll have the pump soon and I will post an update when I get the chance to install it. 

 

 

Does indeed sound like you proved you have a bad pump.  Nice job!  Let us know how it goes.  

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Well, I got to install the new pump and the repair was a success! I did the whole thing from the back of the machine, there is a back panel on this model that can be removed by removing 6 philips-head screws. With the panel off, the electrical connector to the pump was easy to access making the diagnostic process quite easy. In fact, the pump started working after I plugged the connector back in--fooling me into thinking that it magically repaired itself. The washer was then loaded up and started to run a load and the pump did not work. So, as stated before, I got the new pump and installed it and my girlfriend's family are now happy campers. It was a tricky job swapping the pump out from the back of the machine, but it beat the hell out of removing the dryer from the top of it and tearing it down from the front.

Here's a nifty tidbit I figured out that saved me the trouble of dealing with a full tub of icky laundry water due to the pump failure: if you give it a couple light whacks you may get lucky and get it going so it can pump out the majority of the water from the machine. It made the job considerably less messy than it would have been! Thanks RegUS and Budget for your sage advice and guidance! You guys rock! And thanks of course to the one-and-only Samurai for hosting this fantastic site!

Trevor

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