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Kenmore HE2 Plus F28 Error Code Trouble Shooting

9 posts in this topic

I have a Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Loader washer (110.47532602) and I'm getting a F28 Code. When you push the start on the machine you hear a click and the door lock light comes on along with the add garment line but after that the machine doesn't start or run just sits there untell the F28 code appears. The door is locked and the only way to open the door is to take the front cover and pull the manual release. Per the error code F28 it indicates a door lock error but I've been told this could be a latch failure, motor controler unit (MCU) or cental control unit (CCU) that is causing the F28 error. So how do you narrow down what is causing the F28 error?

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F28 SERIAL COMMUNICATION ERROR
The communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the User Interface Board (UI) cannot be sent correctly.

This error code is only shown in Diagnostic test.
Possible Causes/Procedure
- Unplug washer or disconnect power.
- Check that the power cord terminals are connected at the right position to the RFI filter (white-Neutral/ black-Line).
- Check the two ground switches are pressed correctly by the toe and rear panels.
- Check that ground switches are fitted correctly, and are not broken and the green ground wires are connected correctly.
- Check both ground switches are not broken or have not scratch on them.
- Check that all the ground harnesses (green wires) are connected correctly and are not broken or wires became detached.
- Check all wire harness connections from the CCU (MI3 cavity), main Motor and MCU are not broken or wires detached and connector internal pins are visible.
- Check for continuity from the MCU connector wires to CCU (MI3 cavity) connector.
- If the continuity diagnosis failed the Main Harness must be replaced.
- Make sure that all the connectors are fully seated.
- Check the drive system for any worn or failed components.
- Plug in washer or reconnect power.
- Verify the unit operation by running the Diagnostic Test cycle. See page 5.
- After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power and wait for 15 seconds.

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This will probably be either a bad MCU or a bad CCU.  Here's a test procedure from Brother Strathy:

 

- First ohm out your motor. You should have approx 6 ohms between 1-2,1-3 and 2-3. You should also get 120 ohms on 5-6 which is the tach on the motor. If that is good …
- Open up the little flap on the MCU board. Start a regular wash cycle and check for voltages at the MCU. On the pink wires you should get 120v. (With the wires connected to the MCU – don’t disconnect them to check the voltage.) On the connector with the little blue wires – you should have 5 vDC.
- If you are getting the correct voltages at the MCU and the motor ohms out good, then you have a bad MCU.
- If you are not getting those readings at the MCU, then check continuity on the blue wires and the 2 pink wires from the CCU to the MCU.
- If you have continuity on all wires and the connections look good, then you have a bad CCU.
 

 

 

 
Motor-Control-Board-W10163007-00653009.j
 
 
 
Main-Control-Board-W10205849-00663610.jp

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Hello and Thanks for your responses.

 

RegUS_PatOff - I have looked and I don't see any loose or damaged wires that I could see but there are a lot of wires in this machine. As I stated when I go to run the machine the lock clicks on but then no other steps are performed then the machine flashes the F28 error on the display. I have unplugged it and did the hold - release cycle for 4 seconds and I get the Clean Washer light on after I cycle through the F28 codes. According to the book in the machine this is a Latch Error. If I plug it back in and try to start the machine back up I just get the lock click and then the F28 code after a minute or so. ?????

 

Samurai Appliance Repair Man - Is there a video showing how to perform these test? I'm much better if I could see someone doing it then just reading about how to do it.

I do think it could be the MCU or CCU but I'm going to need more help in trying to figure out which is bad with out just replacing and seeing what happens but that is an expense way to find out.

 

Anymore help or videos would be great.

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.... According to the book in the machine this is a Latch Error.

what's the part number of that tech sheet ?

W10071740 ?

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Yes the manual is part number W10071740. I get the code F28 which is the Serial Communications Error shown on the bottom of page 4.

 

When I try to run the Diagnostic Test shown on page 7 this is what I get. I hold and press the prewash button down for 4 seconds then release for 4 seconds until all the lights turn on. It then shows the F28 code. I press the prewash button about 4 times before the F28 code goes off the screen then the door lock light comes on and the clean washer light flashes. Nothing happens after that if I just wait until the F28 code shows back on the screen. Which if looking at page 8 of the manual Error History the clean washer tested the lock but doesn’t do any of the next test steps?

 

If I do the Manual Diagnostic Test on page 9 I press and release the prewash button loop till lights flash and after the F28 code goes off if I press the prewash button nothing happens?

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man - Is there a video showing how to perform these test? 

 

 

Not that I know of.  But it's just a matter of looking at the components and the wiring diagram to identify the correct test points and then make the measurements.  

 

If that's not feasible, the other way to do it is to simply purchase both parts linked in my previous post, install them one and time and see which one fixes the problem (may end up needing both).  You can return the one you don't need for a refund less shipping.  

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If I did this correctly i'm getting 2 or 3 ohms from my motor on pins 1,2,3?

I can get a 120 volt fron the pink wire on one side but not the other?

I'm thinnking it will be just easier to replace the boards one at a time and see if it helps?

If not I'm guessing I'm going to have to call in the experts and spended the big bucks to have it fixed.

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I'm thinnking it will be just easier to replace the boards one at a time and see if it helps?

If not I'm guessing I'm going to have to call in the experts and spended the big bucks to have it fixed.

 

 

 

If that's not feasible, the other way to do it is to simply purchase both parts linked in my previous post, install them one and time and see which one fixes the problem (may end up needing both).  You can return the one you don't need for a refund less shipping.  

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