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Fisher & Paykel GWL10 won't turn on/ low humming noise coming from the tub

3 posts in this topic

A few months ago my Fisher & Paykel GWL10 was not properly draining.  I was able to get it to throw an error code and determined that the diverter valve wasn't working properly.  I was able to drop the pump, clean it out, and everything was good in the world again.


Fast forward a few months, one of my children opened the lid of the machine while it was in the middle of its last spin cycle and the wash machine became seriously unhappy.  It started by not turning on.  We unplugged it, let it reset itself, but it never really worked quite right for the week after.  Now it won't power on, won't throw an error code, and there is a low humming noise coming from the tub.  I dropped the pump again, except this time it got wet and would trip the circuit when I plugged it in.  I got the pump to dry out, the plug is hot, but we are back to won't power on, won't throw a code and low humming noise.


This machine is 13 years old.  I am worried that it will be quite expensive to repair, even doing it myself, and wonder if it is throwing good money after bad.   Is it worth trying to fix or should I go and buy a used Calypso from the rebuild shop I have been using for years for $250 and save myself the time and money of trying to fix this?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!



The older, like yours, F&P washer would have the main control fail when the pump shorted or even jammed up. Plus, if the lid was forced open during a spin cycle, you likely need a new lid lock assembly. It would be a good time to look for something else, but not a Calypso.


The Calypso was a huge failure. Constant repairs and very poor wash results made it one of the worst appliances any company ever built. It's a big steaming pile of monkey dung.


Even if it was reliable, and it is not, the Calypso is lousy at cleaning the clothes. They get colossal build ups of crud inside the outer tub that cause mold and smell. I've had customers tell me the clothes were dirtier after washing than when they went into the machine.



Edited by nickfixit

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GWL10 (Phase 5) does not have a lid lock.  It has a magnetically-actuated reed lid switch.  Lid lock wasn't added to the design until GWL11 (Phase 6 design).


GWL10 has a unique electrical design ... 230V pump.  Main power runs through the pump circuit, so the machine will effectively be dead if the pump kicks-out on thermal overload ... then run again (but maybe not for long) when the pump thermal resets.


Pull the pump and take a resistance reading on it.  Should be 33 ohms.


What does visual exam of the pump show?  Any evidence of leaking -- rusting on the pump body or mineral deposits?


BTW, I've been using a Calypso for the past 5 years.  Best cleaning toploader I've used thus far (which is not to say that I've tried them all).  People who get bad results from Calypsos aren't using them properly, bad laundry habits.

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