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allowingtoo

PSS26SGPA Diagnostic Mode?

119 posts in this topic

Temps are dropping with the cover on.

Fridge 35

Freezer 9

Have not pulled it out to try and clean the underside of the condenser. That's the only side I have not cleaned. Well, maybe the top side. The back and front are clean.

How are you gettin those temp readings? From an independent thermometer? Or according to the fridge display?

Also how often are you opening up the doors to check?

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How are you gettin those temp readings? From an independent thermometer? Or according to the fridge display?

Also how often are you opening up the doors to check?

 

From the fridge display.  He asked me if the compressor was running so I just opened it to stick my head in there.  I was surprised to see the temp had gone down again myself.  Before, with the panel off, it seemed like it was taking almost 12 hours to cool down.  I could check the thermometer but then I would have to open the doors again.  So far, it's been reading about the same for both - panel and thermometer.

 

No one has answered the question on how the freezer defrosted without the defrost heater glowing red like I've seen it do in the past.  This time is the first time I've tried to use the defrost cycle and there was no glowing element involved.  The ice just started melting and the temps started rising.  That's why I thought the defrost cycle was not working on the control panel.

Edited by LBL

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If it is bright outside, such as sun lite, the glowing red of the defrost heater may not be as bright.

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Before, with the panel off, it seemed like it was taking almost 12 hours to cool down.

 

 

So all this time you have been running it with the evaporator panel cover off and expecting it to work correctly???

 

Must have cover in place so air can be pulled from refrig thru air-return duct and across/thru the evaporator coils and then back to the refrig air diffuser duct at the top.

 

I still think there is a beginnings of signs of a sealed system leak with that top 1/4 of the evaporator not frosting.

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... Have not pulled it out to try and clean the underside of the condenser.

that may be half of your problem

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Him opening door to fridge this morning "What did you do?"

Me "I guess it was putting that cover back on."

Him giving me that look.

 

I forgot to ask if the compressor had cut on and off or if he had heard it do so. 

 

Temps are holding normal and steady. 

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So all this time you have been running it with the evaporator panel cover off and expecting it to work correctly???

 

Must have cover in place so air can be pulled from refrig thru air-return duct and across/thru the evaporator coils and then back to the refrig air diffuser duct at the top.

 

I still think there is a beginnings of signs of a sealed system leak with that top 1/4 of the evaporator not frosting.

 

Well.  Umm.  Nobody ever said I had to put it back for that to happen.  Are you going to give me that look too?

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Well, you didn't know!   Just to make sure, you also need the rear compressor cover panel in place to make sure air is pulled over and thru the condenser coil correctly also, (not nearly important as the evaporator panel but none the less it needs to be in place).

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Well. Umm. Nobody ever said I had to put it back for that to happen. Are you going to give me that look too?

uh...you did pull the plug before you changed the board, correct? I was just askin' since we forgot to tell you that as well. lol

But never fear! The last 40 or so post in this thread weren't a complete waste of time because it helped me diagnose a fridge just yesterday. I had a warm GE with a perfect looking frost pattern. I decided, based on this thread, to check the evap temps anyhow using my laser thermometer. The top 1/4 was 40f even though it was covered with frost, the compressor was running non stop and yes, the evap cover had been on. I wiped the light coating of frost off the top coils and they did not get colder. Much heavier frosting lower. Exactly like Budget described.

So I'm thinking, was this entire confusing thread simply a gift to me from the appliance gods and you and your problem just a vehicle for my benefit? But then i realize the appliance gods have no reason to give me a gift. Not to mention there aint no such thing as an appliance god (although Reg, Certified tech Budget and Samurai are about as close as you can get).

This thread does, however, exemplify a point constantly stressed on this site : When you ask your questions, it and the resulting responses will not only benefit you, but benefit many others that come across it. The evap cover issue ( btw make sure you put it back in place.... oh I'm just practicing.. see below) is certainly instructive for you and others. But it is also a teachable moment for the masters here to not assume certain things. I'm already practicing to mention it for the next person with a similar problem. So thank you!

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Just an observation or two about these GE fridges. The motherboards were prone to failure (counterfeit electrolytic capacitors - just like lots of electronics of the era) and one symptom of the capacitor failure is they will bulge on the top. Another is the board tends to run pretty hot (you can tell that before you open the cover - the panel will be pretty warm). Another tell-tale is to look at the thermistors. The epoxy used to seal them is prone to failure, allowing moisture in and screwing up the resistance. The bogus ones usually have black epoxy sealing the wires in place, and a water logged thermistor will have a bulging seal. I always look at the thermistors and if the epoxy isn't the white stuff I replace them.

Edited by olyteddy

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the capacitor plague affected many companies that used twainese components (see http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague) . GE and many other companies stepped forward and issued a recall on boards suspected of having these bad capacitors (resulting from stolen yet incorrectly reproduced electrolytic water formula).

With regards to the older thermistors, GE's official position is to replace them with the newer better designed thermistor. Those black sealant thermistors can test fine yet fail during times of high moisture. So if you test one and it passes, replace it anyway.

The biggest problem I've found with GE's is the lack of a fuse or fail safe to prevent fan motors from taking out a board. It's silly to no end and very expensive to replace a board and a fan motor. GE can't blame this stupidity on no one but themselves.

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Wow. :pint1:

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Wow. :pint1:

That's what happens when you blindlessly accept the lowest bid.

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Which astronaut was that who stated as he was going aboard one of the Apollo space mission that he was thinking he was going to be launched into space by the rocket built by the lowest bidder?  :blinky:

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Which astronaut was that who stated as he was going aboard one of the Apollo space mission that he was thinking he was going to be launched into space by the rocket built by the lowest bidder?  :blinky:

Moe :wink:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nZgGxypKtw

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lol thanks! Earlier, I was trying to remember who and under what circumstances that was said,... I think you're right, Apollo 13... that gives me enough info to ask the google...

Got it

"It's a very sobering feeling to be up in space and realize that one's safety factor was determined by the lowest bidder on a government contract." - Alan Shepard

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Moe :wink:

lol you changed it.. i was going to say How could you diminish such a historical event by saying CURLY was involved. When we all know it was Joe..

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lol thanks! Earlier, I was trying to remember who and under what circumstances that was said,... I think you're right, Apollo 13... that gives me enough info to ask the google...

Got it

"It's a very sobering feeling to be up in space and realize that one's safety factor was determined by the lowest bidder on a government contract." - Alan Shepard

Could not remember all the facts, but it is something that has stuck with me all these years, the lowest bidder thing.

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