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PSS26SGPA Diagnostic Mode?


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118 replies to this topic

#41 allowingtoo

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 08:01 PM

OK.  I hope it is not still defrosting :)

It passed:

Temperature control panel to main control board communication

Enter defrost

test checks all five thermistors P


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#42 allowingtoo

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 08:33 PM

Temperature control panel to dispenser board communication

FAIL

 

I just realized after reading back through the PDF that I did not complete the test....

 

Now what?


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#43 allowingtoo

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 08:55 PM

Temperature control panel to main control board communication > PASS

 

Temperature control panel to dispenser board communication > FAIL

 

Dispenser board to main control board communication > PASS

 

Control and Sensor System Self-Test all five thermistors > PASS

 

Enter defrost > Loud noise so I assume it went into defrost. (not really loud, just louder than than normal)


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#44 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 09:10 PM

You did toggle out of defrost if your compressor is running.

 

Your test proves that the defrost circuit is fine but the fridge may not advancing into defrost mode on its own either because of a bad board or a bad thermistor.

 

The thermistor test only tests for a shorted thermistor, not whether it is out of calibration. Your thermistor may think it is 0 F when it is really at 20 f. Simply put, the test only checks the body, not the mind.  The ice water test is demonstrated in the video. that is the best way to test a thermistor


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#45 allowingtoo

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 09:22 PM

Thank you.  Is there only one board?  The mother of them all? 


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#46 bigbuck

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 09:55 PM

As i said in the beginning after i posted the video.Putting it in diagnostic mode is not always the best way.I think i need a strong drink after reading this.



#47 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 10:44 PM

On GE's, diagnostic mode is great in combination with testing from the board. Each has its strong and weak points. The most complete test method is reserved for those GE techs who are authorized to have their special harness and computer software program. The program can be obtained but the harness is impossible to get and just as impossible to duplicate. So we are stuck with the board and diagnostic mode.


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#48 allowingtoo

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 09:31 AM

The most complete test method is reserved for those GE techs who are authorized to have their special harness and computer software program.

 

After repairing my GE fridge for the third time - I feel like I am working my way up to my own special harness :)


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#49 LBL

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 01:06 PM

I have my new User Name :wub:   (That's the only girl gif I could find besides Tinkerbell)

 

Sorry if I offended anyone but DurhamAppliance - you left yourself wide open for that one {{giggle}} 



#50 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 06:31 PM

Offend us? Now that's imposible. lol

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#51 richseattle56

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 08:20 PM

U have a defrost issue. Check ur defrost heater, thermo, if those are ok it is the board. Most likely it is ur heater. U need to get the back wall of the freezer off. If u defrost the unit it will work fine for 2 to 3 weeks until it freezes up again.



#52 LBL

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 09:03 PM

Thank U



#53 LBL

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 11:16 AM

Whoa!  Woke up this morning and it was running in defrost mode all by itself.  Unplugged it for 30 minutes and that didn't help.  DH had to remind me to run the diagnostic thing again (thank goodness you made me do that!!) and sure enough - defrost + defrost made it turn off.  That heater looks scary running like that. 



#54 LBL

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 04:11 PM

This Blue & White wire - is it connected to anything? 

https://picasaweb.go...423757714467458ss

 

 

Never mind.  I guess it didn't.  It's running.


Edited by LBL, 23 August 2013 - 04:32 PM.


#55 LBL

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 09:54 PM

Ok, I'm beat.  I don't know how you guys do it with shoulders any wider than mine.  Only one problem.  I hooked everything back up and I have no lights in the power panel.  And I don't hear the fan running on the fridge side - just the freezer.  It's already frosting up.

 

The defrost thermostat kind of separated when I unhooked from the clamp on the wall, so I don't know if that is normal of if that was the problem piece.  It opened up like a clam. 

 

I was only able to replace one Thermistor - the one to the Defrost Thermostat.  I sent DH to the hardware store to buy some butt splice and he only bought 10 so I didn't have enough to do the rest of the Thermistors.  I figured I'd just do those tomorrow.  

 

So what do I do now?  Pull it back out and try putting the old mother board back in?


Edited by LBL, 23 August 2013 - 09:56 PM.


#56 LBL

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 10:26 PM

The new Motherboard was bad.  I have lights and power. 

 

Thanks everyone.  I'm not sure this was rated 2 wrenches but it wasn't too bad.  I still don't know how guys do it. 



#57 LBL

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 07:21 AM

After overnight (6 hour?)  cooling - it's the Motherboard that is bad (too).  The temperature on the control panel is still like it was.  But the Frost pattern looks great on the coils. 

 

Sigh.  Somehow I didn't put the ice maker back together right. 



#58 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 07:56 AM

if your defrost thermostat (the cylindrical part) separated, you will have to replace it. Also double check to make sure you have the connectors on the board seated properly. It's easy to improperly install a connector leaving a pin on the left or right exposed.

10 butt splices should be enough! But I would strongly recommend bell connectors and silicone. That is what GE suggests.

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#59 LBL

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 09:01 AM

I followed this video since I didn't have a Thermistor attached to my Evaporator Fan Motor.  I'd much rather have paid a little more and had the Thermistor already attached.  It would have saved a lot of time and struggle.  But that's just me and I'm not a GE repair person.  I can see splicing in the other Thermistors but this was a PITA. 



#60 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 10:13 AM

If your original fan motor has a thermistor connected, then certainly get the version the matches it. Much easier. But if you are nit replacing the fan motor, then splice in a new thermistor

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