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Whirlpool duet washer hot and cold inlet valves not working -- control board?


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8 replies to this topic

#1 brush

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 03:34 PM

 Model # GHW9150PW4

 

All of a sudden, neither the hot nor cold inlets are working.  When started on a cycle, the washer just spins back and forth, as if waiting for water, sometimes quitting with HF code.  (Sometimes also gets "stuck" and won't reset even when unplugged for >5mins).

 

Diagnostic test has no sound of solenoid flipping or water flowing on C01 or C03 (cold and hot inlet tests).

 

Ohmmeter shows 780 and 790 ohms across the pins of the #4 harness, which seems (?) within specs of 800 ohms.

 

Does this indicate a control board problem?  Are there any steps to further diagnose?  Is it "worth it" to replace a control board on this model, considering age etc. (about 5 years -- we've already replaced the drain pump and it's starting to get finicky again -- we use the machine quite a lot).

 

Thanks!


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 03:58 PM

you're not using any "funny" Inlet Water Hoses, are you ?


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#3 brush

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 07:15 PM

Funny?  No, it's the stock hoses the washer came with, far as I can tell.


To be clear: water comes out of the hoses when disconnected from washer, and the filter is clean -- I can suck water out of the valve from the back of the machine.  And it's not slow water flow -- literally none at all. 


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#4 micabay

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 07:28 PM

Regs comment is meaning to ask you, are your hoses "flood safe hoses." If you unhook the hoses behind your on the machine side does water continue to come out?

#5 brush

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 07:43 PM

 If I understand correctly, the answer is "yes".  When I start to unscrew the hose from the back of the machine, water starts spurting.  If I turn off the faucet, remove the hose from the back of the machine, and then turn the faucet on, water pours out the end of the hose that would be connected to the machine.  Does this clarify?


Also, again, there's no sound of the solenoid tripping the valve open when the diagnostic tests the cold or hot inlets.


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#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 09:15 PM

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1176592

Main-Control-Board-8182695-01022818.jpg


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#7 brush

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 01:54 PM


Any more input on how to test the valve directly for mechanical failure?  Ie. can I place a load that should trip the solenoid to see if it works?  What would that be?

 

$225 is more than the machine is worth, I think.  But I did a bit more testing, and while I haven't found spec on what the voltage SHOULD be, there is some amount of juice on at least the cold water side of the harness to the valve.  So this indicates the control board is pushing SOMETHING out, and maybe the problem is with the valve, even thogugh the resistance is close to spec.


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#8 brush

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 01:59 PM

(It seems the board is putting about 1.7-2.1 AC volts to the cold solenoid on "soak", and the valve is doing nothing.)


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#9 brush

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 04:27 PM

For those reading this, I believe the spec voltage for the inlet solenoids is 120VAC, so the board is not putting out enough.  I checked the pressure sensor, but that seems to be correctly reading "empty".  So I think it's the board, and I think we're going to get a new refurbished machine.


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