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Fisher Paykel Stops during rinse cycle


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7 replies to this topic

#1 Fixenstuff

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 07:43 PM

I have a Fisher Paykel GWL15-96155A which now stops at the rinse cycle (I think) and starts beeping.  I get the a wash light, rinse light and spin light (see attached picture).  Anyone know what this means?  Is  it an error code?

 

?ui=2&ik=f7fb16bd10&view=att&th=14093f97

 

Thanks in advance for any help

 

Tom G.



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 09:42 PM

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#3 DADoESTX

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 09:52 PM

Can't see your picture, you appear to have placed it as a direct link into your Gmail account, which doesn't work for other people to see it.

 

Probably is Fault 37.  Pump blocked ... which doesn't necessarily mean that the pump *is* blocked, it just means that the machine is supposed to be draining and the controller board senses that the water level in the tub is not dropping.  Most common cause is the diverter valve is clogged or jammed in recirculate mode, which sends the pumped water back into the tub instead of to the drain.

 

Follow this procedure to retrieve the recorded Fault Code.

 

- With power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time.

 

- Should get two beeps and the panel comes on (Diagnostic Mode)

 

- Press Spin Speed Up repeatedly until BOTH Hold and Slow lights are on (press Spin Speed Down to back up if you overshoot the mark)

 

- Then note which of the eight Wash Progress lights are lit, from left to right (1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc.) and report back here.

 

- Press Power to exit Diagnostics



#4 Fixenstuff

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 07:40 PM

Thanks for the information and procedure to retrieve the fault codes. After following your instructions the 3rd, 6th and 8th light are illuminated. So what is the prognosis doctor?

#5 DADoESTX

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 09:04 PM

3rd light = binary 32

6th light = binary 4

8th light = binary 1

 

32 + 4 + 1 = Fault 37

 

Likely the diverter valve as noted above ... but could also be the pump really is clogged with lint/debris.

 

Pump removes without tools.  Unplug the machine, tilt back for access beneath.  Disconnect the pump wires.  Find a thumb latch on the metal mounting bracket, hold it released and rotate the entire pump counterclockwise to dismount it (bayonet mount).  Have a towel ready in case of residual water.  Examine up in the tub outlet for a wad of debris ... and around/under the impeller for accumulated lint/strings/hair.  Lube the seal face around the impeller with a bit of liquid detergent to ease rotating the pump back into position when remounting.

 

The diverter can be tested via Diagnostics.

- Get into Diagnostics as per above.  Don't press the Spin buttons.

- Press Delicate cycle button to activate the diverter.  Takes 1 to 2 mins for it to shift position to recirculate mode.  There's no indication when it shifts, have to wait the requisite time.

- While waiting for the diverter, press Wash Temp Down to run the cold valve, fill enough water to see it coming up on the agitator skirt.

- When ready, press Regular cycle button to run the pump.  Water should recirculate back into the tub from the port at top/right beneath the tub cover, and NONE from the drain hose.

- Press Delicate and Regular to turn off the diverter and pump.  Wait 3 mins for the diverter to shift back to drain mode.

- Press Regular to run the pump again.  Water should flow out the drain hose, NONE from the recirculation port.

- If in either case water pumps to where it shouldn't, dismount the diverter and check if the actuating arm is broken or it's clogged with lint/debris.

 

The diverter is a triangular-looking device mounted under the tub near the pump.  It should be inside a protective plastic cover with a couple wires and three hoses attached.  Pay attention to how it's mounted so as to remount it the same way.  If mounted wrong the recirculate and drain flows would be reversed.



#6 Fixenstuff

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 08:58 PM

After following you excellent instruction this is were I stand. I removed the pump and diverter; no blockage. I ran the test sequence and it all went OK until the final step to drain the tub. It ran for awhile, partially draining the tub, then stopped. After 5 minutes or so I could run again for about 30 seconds. Repeated a 3rd time to drain. Lifted up washer, pump motor seemed hot.

Tried to run a small load of laundry, same thing, stops before rinse and only drains part way, put on hold wait 10 minutes pump runs and turn back on, pump runs.

I am guessing I have a bad motor. Your opinion?

#7 DADoESTX

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 09:49 PM

Yes, bad pump.  Your previous details weren't clear that the pump is shutting down and restarting.  It has thermal overheat protection that resets when it cools.  Strongly suggest you don't run the machine any further until the pump is replaced.



#8 Fixenstuff

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 02:15 PM

Just wanted to follow-up.  Installed the new pump and fuse kit (comes with pump as part of upgrade).  Definetly fixed the original problem but after the 2nd load it blew the 2.5 amp fuse.  Ran a third load and same thing happened.  Replaced the 2.5 amp with a 5 amp fuse and 20 plus loads later no problems.  So this may not sound proper but given that there was no fuse from the factory and I ran it that way (solid wire) for years my thinking is 5amps works and it is better than a solid wire.  Given a true fault I am sure the 5 amp will work.

 

Also when I went to install the fuse I found the wiring diagram and fault codes which other readers might find helpful.

 

Anyways, thanks again so much for your help and spot on diagnoses.  It save me a lot of hassle and time.






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