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Kenmore dryer 110.66972500

Thermal fuse

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38 replies to this topic

#1 Patricio

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 09:57 PM

Replaced thermal fuse 3 weeks ago on a dryer that was moved from the panhandle down to the coastal bend.  Customer said it worked OK up in the flat country.   Called me this evening & says dryer is dead again.  The machine had a heat? control board with no schematic.   Any insite as to what could blow the fuse.   Vent is clear & exhausts under house (on stilts) right behind dryer.  Seemed to cycle Ok when I was there on initial visit & repair.  I found an earlier post from 2009 for a tech sheet but that link is broken & from service matters which does me no good cause I don't belong.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 12:59 AM

http://appliantology...-sheet-8545908/

The Heating Element may be partially shorted to chassis / ground

(during the move ?)

Check to see that there is no heat in the Air-Fluff cycle

OR there is a Venting problem


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#3 Patricio

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 04:28 PM

Thermal fuse was open again.   Vent open flow, no restrictions. No heat in air cycle.  Element not shorted to chassis, Good  continuity in element, enough to make meter sing. 

 

Cleaned thermistor continuity sings.  Thermal cut-out & thermostat closed, meter sings.    Checked all connections for good connections. Plugged & unplugged all connections.   Everything looks good.   Tightened lugs at receptacle.   Only thing left to do is change out thermostat & high temp cut out.   

 

Which I did.     Time will tell.   This one cut into profit, home is at far reach of coverage area & no charge (should have put cut-out kit in 1st trip)


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#4 bigbuck

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 05:02 PM

http://www.repaircli...er=110.66972500

I would change thermistor.Anytime thermal fuse is blown and you have good air flow change both.



#5 Patricio

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 10:06 PM

http://www.repaircli...er=110.66972500

I would change thermistor.Anytime thermal fuse is blown and you have good air flow change both.

Telling me I'm going back again.  :wink:


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#6 bigbuck

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 10:25 PM

Thermistors have a certain ohm value at a certain temperature just like G.E thermistors on refrigerators as i am sure you know.I hate call backs.



#7 micabay

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 09:08 AM

The thermal fuse on the blower housing doesn't blow because of airflow... Less air flowing=less heat in that vent... Less airflowing=more heat on the heater housing.

Replace the t-stat, also. On computer controlled machine, this will eliminate everything, but the computer, and wiring. We have yet to return and replace a computer, so the odds are with the t-stat.

Edited by micabay, 28 August 2013 - 09:31 AM.


#8 Patricio

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 10:36 AM

I replaced the thermostat.   I noticed it seemed to cycle more so I am surmising that the stat was 'sticking' closed.   Time will tell.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
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#9 micabay

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 06:30 PM

Just retread my above statement, and I noticed I use the term thermostats and thermistor as if they we the same. Not true

#10 micabay

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 06:33 PM

Just reread my above statement, and I noticed I use the term thermostats and thermistor as if they we the same. Not true. I'm good at fixing and fiddling, not so much with words, and expressing how to fix stuff, such as appliances.

#11 Patricio

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:00 PM

http://www.repaircli...er=110.66972500

I would change thermistor.Anytime thermal fuse is blown and you have good air flow change both.

 

 

Telling me I'm going back again.  :wink:

 

I'm going back again.  Dryer just quit again


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#12 Patricio

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:19 PM

Non-resettable thermal fuse & Thermal cutoff fuse are both open,   thermistor at 78 to 80 degree room temp ohm'ed out at 5K.  Owner said dryer worked fine since my last visit.  Then just before it went dead she noticed it "smelt like an iron".   Uses dryer only in timed dry.

 

I replaced all thermal devices except for element (19 ohms & no shorts).   Dryer runs & heats.   Customer did not have any damp/wet articles to test dry.  Element Cherried up mostly, one side seemed a little dead.  The element cycled off for a bit then cycled back on.  Unit did not feel to overheat, maybe a little on the cooler side.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:34 PM

...  Element Cherried up mostly, one side seemed a little dead. 

Heating Element partially shorted to chassis ?

maybe "sags" only when "hot"

Close inspection at that point may show past evidence of a short.

 


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#14 john63

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:55 PM

<<<Replaced thermal fuse 3 weeks ago on a dryer that was moved from the panhandle down to the coastal bend. Customer said it worked OK up in the flat country. Called me this evening & says dryer is dead again.>>>

**********

What is the laundry room location/layout?

If the laundry room is in a small/confined area---with a door that is *closed* while the dryer is being used---Thermal Limiters will fail frequently.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#15 Patricio

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 11:07 PM

<<<Replaced thermal fuse 3 weeks ago on a dryer that was moved from the panhandle down to the coastal bend. Customer said it worked OK up in the flat country. Called me this evening & says dryer is dead again.>>>

**********

What is the laundry room location/layout?

If the laundry room is in a small/confined area---with a door that is *closed* while the dryer is being used---Thermal Limiters will fail frequently.

Now I did not think of that.  Dryer is in a closet by itself.  Family moved from Odessa to Rockport & they had no problem in Odessa.  Not until they moved here & stuck it in the dryer closet.  Dryer barely fits in.

 

Heating Element partially shorted to chassis ?

maybe "sags" only when "hot"

Close inspection at that point may show past evidence of a short.

I checked for the slinky effect,  maybe should look a little closer.    Did let element get hot then thumped on tube & checked for grounding on chassis.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#16 john63

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 11:19 PM

Dryers need generous amounts of air.

Lack of sufficient airflow---causes the temperature to *spike* (causing a failed Thermal Limiter).

A laundry room/area with poor air supply/circulation is just as "bad" as a restricted/blocked dryer vent.

Edited by john63, 20 September 2013 - 11:36 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#17 Patricio

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 03:49 PM

This dryer finished one load & was dead on the 2nd load.    When ask of the details, customer says she did a load of towels  on auto cycle which finished with a couple of towels slightly damp.  Went to finish them on timed cycle & when pushing start cycle she heard the dryer click then buzzer went off. 

 

I don't know but maybe the electronic board is farting.   Is there a way to test control board.  This is eating my lunch.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#18 john63

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 10:15 PM

<<<Dryer is in a closet by itself.>>>

**********

Not good---especially if the closet has a door.

Case in point...

Some years back---I had a customer(a widow)with a Whirlpool Thin Twin Laundry Center.

The symptom/complaint was: "Dryer Runs but No Heat"

The Thermal Limiter had failed.

A new Thermal Limiter was installed and failed shortly thereafter.

This laundry center was in a closet within the bathroom.

The closet had a *louvered* door and the bathroom itself was not large either.

After checking the *usual suspects* again---for a failing Thermal Limiter---it occurred to me to ask the customer about the conditions in which the dryer was being used.

Both the small/louvered closet door and the bathroom door---were *closed* anytime that the laundry was being done (to reduce noise in other areas of the home).

After advising/explaining to the customer---how the dryer works (particularly where the AIR comes from)---she agreed that it was now necessary to keep both doors in the open position whenever doing laundry.

A follow-up(courtesy)call to the customer confirmed---no further problems with the dryer taking too long to dry (which was another issue as well) nor a repeat of "Runs But No Heat"

Edited by john63, 21 September 2013 - 10:18 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#19 Patricio

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 10:41 AM

  •  

<<<Dryer is in a closet by itself.>>>

**********

Not good---especially if the closet has a door.

Case in point...

Some years back---I had a customer(a widow)with a Whirlpool Thin Twin Laundry Center.

The symptom/complaint was: "Dryer Runs but No Heat"

The Thermal Limiter had failed.

A new Thermal Limiter was installed and failed shortly thereafter.

This laundry center was in a closet within the bathroom.

The closet had a *louvered* door and the bathroom itself was not large either.

After checking the *usual suspects* again---for a failing Thermal Limiter---it occurred to me to ask the customer about the conditions in which the dryer was being used.

Both the small/louvered closet door and the bathroom door---were *closed* anytime that the laundry was being done (to reduce noise in other areas of the home).

After advising/explaining to the customer---how the dryer works (particularly where the AIR comes from)---she agreed that it was now necessary to keep both doors in the open position whenever doing laundry.

A follow-up(courtesy)call to the customer confirmed---no further problems with the dryer taking too long to dry (which was another issue as well) nor a repeat of "Runs But No Heat"

Dryer just fits in closet.  Customer says the don't shut the door.

   Facts are:

  1. Dryer little over a year old
  2. No problems previous residency
  3. 1st service call shortly after moving down to saltwater home with dryer in closet.. open non-resettable thermal fuse. (next to thermistor) replace fuse only
  4. 2nd visit.. open fuse again.. replace fuse along with high limit thermostat & thermal cutoff (TCO)
  5. 3rd visit.. open thermal fuse & open thermal cutoff.. replace all three thermal safety devices & a new thermistor.
  6. Dryer dead again after advising leaving door open with fan blowing in closet.  Only one load of cycled.

A 4th call tomorrow to see what the failed problem is.   I will examine the heater element again with my magnifying headset for scorch marks on housing.

The service sheet says if all tests are within normal tolerances to replace heat control board.   I liked the air flow diagnose, that is logical sense.  But now after being run in  auto cycle, a cycle customer never used before,  the unit fails immediately after one load.   Has me questioning again.

 

Plan of action for tomorrow:

  • See what thermal device(s) have opened & replace,
  • scrutinize the heat element,
  • monitor exhaust temperature dryer will have to be pulled out of closet into hall
  • Scratch my head
  • hopefully have a wet load but what will that prove.

Any other ideas...


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#20 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 10:44 AM

... hopefully have a wet load but what will that prove.

wil Heat faster on Timed Dry with an empty load
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw





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