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J2Hess

Dishwasher fill problem

16 posts in this topic

Maytag WU284. Doesn't fill well. I replaced the float switch (the case was coming apart and there was high contact resistance) but the problem persisted.

 

So I went to the intake valve. Verified 120 vac; fill cycle lasts about 100 seconds. There seems to be good water flow at the supply hose, but only about 1/4 to 1/3 the flow at the valve outlet. I pulled the valve, applied line voltage, and tried blowing through it. (The AC came through a ground fault interrupter - I'm only a half-dummy.) A lot of resistance - like blowing up a new baloon.

 

So I ordered the replacement, and gave it the same out-of-machine test as the supplier said there was no returning electrical parts if they'fe ever been installed. It has the same high resistance as the old valve!

 

Is this normal, and there's some other wierd reason for the fill problem? Did they send me a bad valve? Is my test itself defective?

 

Advice, guidance, etc. etc, greatfully appreciated!

 

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

What do you mean by "doesn't fill well"?  

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... supplier said there was no returning electrical parts if they'fe ever been installed.

365-day return policy on all parts purchased here,

including electrical parts that have been installed !

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1452

Water-Inlet-Valve-902543-00870757.jpg

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"Doesn't fill well' means that there is not enough water for the pump to build up good pressure and the spray is too weak to clean the dishes. Initially the water barely reaches to the top of the pump inlet holes, and once the water is circulating it falls below the top of the holes. I'm going to estimate that the machine lets in a couple of quarts, max; it seems to require about 2 gallons for good operation.

 

Thanks for asking!

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Oh Grand Master, this is good to know. And as the other supplier who is not to be named apparently eschews techmically-informed staff in favor of mere clerks, there are hiddent costs to relying on them.

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does the D/W work OK if you add more water ?

(usually just about up to the Heater Element on most D/W's)

Water Valve common fail

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J2, check the ell fitting to the valve for calcium buildup.  Also check the water inlet chamber on the left side of the tub and clean if necessary.  Be sure the supply hose from the valve to the chamber is not kinked.  Drain hose installation should be ok but check for any siphoning.  Check the overflow float and switch for proper operation.

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Oh Masters,

 

Yes, the dishwasher works if I fill it to the specified level.

 

I saw no signs of calcium build-up on the supply hose; there is some  in the plastic dish that distributes the water into the tub, but it doesn't block the  hose. I verified a good flow from the supply hose when disconnected to the valve, reduced to an estimated 1/4 to 1/3 the volume on the other side of the vavle with the outlet-to-tub hose disconnected.

 

I've been under the dishwasher several times and no hoses where kinked; I'm not looking for siphoning because it doesn't fill in the first place - if it filled and drained over the cycle, I'd look for siphoning.

 

I've read your responses to others with similar problems, so I've covered the usual.

 

What I'm really hoping is an answer to the question, is the level of resistance from the current (and the replacement) normal? Is it normal for it to cut the water flow by over half?

 

Merci.

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If the resistance value of the solenoid coils on both valves is the same then that proves that the coil on the old valve has not shorted.  But it doesn't mean that the old valve is not bad.  There could still be an internal problem in the valve body (stuck plunger, faulty flow washer, etc.).  Older Maytag dishwashers used to use a dual solenoid valve that was a constant source of a not filling problem.  So much in fact that the replacement valves substituted over to a single solenoid valve.  So if everything else checks good, replace the valve.

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Keep in mind not to sink too much money into this dishwasher,since most of the parts are no longer available for these older units.

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Oops - normally when we talk of resistance we're talking about electrical resistance. I did indeed check that there was continuity through the coils of both units; I can only check DC resistance and not AC impedance but DC resistance is about 920 ohms, consistent with a slightly higher impedance when you add coil inductance and the 7 watt rating of the solenoid.

 

I thought that from the context that it was clear eough that I was talking about the resistance of the valve to letting water flow through it. As you might deduce from the above, I'm pretty familiar with basic electrical circuts and not looking for guidance there. What I am hoping for is someone who has some experience with the valve side and knows whether it is normal for the valve to reduce water flow so much, as if a faucet was only 1/4 open.

 

And Senpai, thanks for the advisory on future parts availability. I'm beginning  to see deterioration of the tub paint; I figure it's only good for a few more years - this is the last major repair.

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Hmm - no responses today. I'm going to hope this means that someone is doing the experiment of testing the effect of a known good valve on water flow, or that inquiries are being passed to the master sensei. The un-appealing alternative is thinking that I have perhaps stumpled the local experts, and must look for a dishwasher engineer!

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replace the Valve

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Blowing thru the valve is no test as compared to the hydraulic effect of water.  The water pressure is part what makes the valve operate correctly and also the valve usually has a flow washer to meter the amount of output, (it deforms and restricts the size of the opening slowing down the flow as pressure raises, keeping flow at constant metered rate - air doesn't cause same effect on flow washer).

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Replace the valve and get on with life.  

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Valve replaced. It now fills rapidly enough that the float turns off the valve in 50-60 seconds of the fill cycle.

 

Arigato all.

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