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LG WM3360HVCA - Leaking Water from Rear Panel


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14 replies to this topic

#1 kavadon

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Posted 01 September 2013 - 01:57 PM

Hi all,

Have a quick question. The LG washer listed above has started leaking water from the overflow tube in back since yesterday while in the rinse cycle. I call it the overflow tube, but it's the overflow area just below and left of the cold and hot water feeds on the back of the washer when facing the back of the machine.

 

First assumption is the water level switch has gone bad or the hose is clogged. Easy enough to check and/or replace, but are there any other items that could causing this that I can check? It's my luck it's the holiday weekend so I guess I have some time before I can get my hands on the parts.

 

Many thanks in advance.



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#2 john63

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Posted 01 September 2013 - 04:23 PM

 <<<The LG washer listed above has started leaking water from the overflow tube in back since yesterday while in the rinse cycle.>>>

 

**********************************

 

Caused by using the incorrect amount or type of laundry detergent.

 

Disregard the detergent instructions.

 

NEVER use the *Max* line in the Dispenser Drawer (Blue Liquid Dispenser Cup) as a guide for how much liquid detergent should be used. In fact---it's best to throw out (trash) the blue dispenser cup and use the dispenser drawer only.

 

Use only *HE* type detergent (powder or liquid) in the following amounts:

 

HE (regular strength): (2) Tablespoons

 

HE 2X (double concentrated): (1) Tablespoon

 

HE 3X (triple concentrated): (1) Teaspoon


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 kavadon

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 06:14 AM

John,

Thanks for the reply. The wife is always careful about using only 1 to 1.5 tblspns of detergent when running loads, and only the HE types of detergent are used. Any other thoughts?

 

Thanks.



#4 john63

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 11:15 AM

Remove the top cover of the washer (2 upper screws at the rear/back and slide top cover back about an inch/lift off)

 

Disconnect the rubber Air Vent Hose at the top of the tub assy

 

Inspect the mushroom-shaped FLOAT ( sticky/stuck in down position?)

 

If the FLOAT stem is tacky/sticky or is missing (fell out during manufacturing) order a replacement (4769ER4001A)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 kavadon

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Posted 03 September 2013 - 09:54 AM

Hi John,

The Labor Day Monday activities slowed down the detective work yesterday. Thanks so much for the info. I will check it out when I get back to the house.

 

Thanks again.



#6 kavadon

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 08:47 AM

Hi all,

Alright finally had a chance to dig into this and do some checking. Mixed results but headed in the right direction.

 

John, you were spot on with the float idea. It was stuck when I checked, so I ordered a brand new one and replaced it. We were able to run two loads through the speed wash cycle with no issues at all while checking the air vent in back for the leaks. On the third load however I noticed a bit of water coming out again. Hmm. Noticed it was right at the start of the final spin cycle where the machine sprays a small bit of water every so often. Did another load on speed wash with no issues, then did a test load with some towels. Same problem popped back up with small bit of water coming out of air vent in back during final spin cycle.

 

This has me scratching my head a bit. The new float definitely made the situation much better, but still seeing water coming out of the back on every few loads. I assume the sleeve where the float rides is still catching the new float stem and keeping it open. Don't see this as a replacement part.

 

Anybody seen anything like this?



#7 john63

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 10:39 AM

Try this...

 

Remove the Mushroom/Float and wash the stem with warm water.

 

Use an improvised cleaning rod to clean the "sleeve/bore" (such as a gun cleaning rod for a 9mm/.38cal)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 kavadon

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 03:58 PM

Hi John,

Followed your advice. Didn't have gun cleaning kit but used doubled wire hanger with a folded coffee machine filter (best I could do). Two more speed wash loads and all good - then third load produced same result with fairly serious water output out of air vent ....

 

But I caught it in the middle of that "spin" cycle on the third load and the water was flowing wide open on "warm" rinse setting all through the spin cycle. The other loads had been cold rinse/spin only. Is it possible that one side of the water inlet valve has gone out or is acting up every so often? If so, can that be check with voltmeter or just better off to replace whole thing at once....? For the record also, when I ordered the new float, I also bought a new pressure switch, so I can swap that as well if necessary.

 

Washer sitting on linoleum floor with concrete base, so happy to keep chasing if we can just get it right and back to normal.

 

Many thanks!



#9 john63

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 12:14 AM

<<<But I caught it in the middle of that "spin" cycle on the third load and the water was flowing wide open on "warm" rinse setting all through the spin cycle. The other loads had been cold rinse/spin only.>>>

 

**********

 

Wow:)

 

That's one symptom that I've never seen before.

 

I'll get back to you...

 


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 john63

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 09:11 PM

 <<<I also bought a new pressure switch, so I can swap that as well if necessary.>>>

 

**********

 

Water Level Sensors ***rarely*** fail.

 

I'd suggest pulling off the black tube from the Water Level Sensor---and blow through it and re-attach the tube.

 

There's always the possibility of intermittent blockage/restriction---which *could* cause the washer to SPIN when it should NOT---especially with water still remaining in the tub (false sensor data).

 

 

 

If you haven't already---run a *Normal Cycle* with the Top Cover of the washer removed/off.

 

During the *Rinse Spin* and *Final Spin*---observe the top/rear area of the tub.

 

Let us know if anything odd/unusual is seen.


Edited by john63, 09 September 2013 - 10:32 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#11 kavadon

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 09:36 PM

Hi John,

I tried to reply a bit earlier, but our internet here was down after some local storms.

 

Earlier this evening, we got brave and ran a normal load through on Cold/Cold. All worked perfectly well until we got to the last bit. 8 minutes left on the final spin cycle, the machine started spraying water into the basket during the spin. The open valve never stopped spraying water during the spin. Eventually the sloshing of the tub pulled water up through the air vent and out the back again.

 

I powered down the machine to prevent a further mess (and one more cleanup with rags and towels). The water continued flowing into the tub from what I could hear even with all power off. I closed the main water valve in the garage, and that did finally stop the flow. Was able to turn machine back on and start a Rinse and Spin cycle selection to clear all water from the tub (I did turn the main water back on a minute or so after Rinse cycle had started).

 

Since then, we've attempted another Speed Wash cycle and again had the same problem listed above with water coming out of the air vent no matter water temp selections. At that point, I am able to power down machine then start a Rinse and Spin cycle to clear the tub. At this point, I'm a bit afraid to let the load go without watching it (lol). Oddly enough, this "sloshed water out the air vent" problem has not occurred a single time during the Rinse and Spin cycles - even with a full tub of water when this starts.

 

So interested to hear what your thoughts are, and as before thank you for the input and ideas.



#12 john63

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 10:00 PM

<<<All worked perfectly well until we got to the last bit. 8 minutes left on the final spin cycle, the machine started spraying water into the basket during the spin. The open valve never stopped spraying water during the spin. Eventually the sloshing of the tub pulled water up through the air vent and out the back again.>>>

**********

Good clue:)

Caused by a faulty Water Valve.

I'd replace both the HOT WATER VALVE (5220FR2006H) and the quad-cluster COLD WATER VALVE ASSY (5221FR2008F)

Has there ever been an error message of "FE" (Fill Error) previously?
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#13 kavadon

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 10:13 PM

Yes indeed - twice. I assumed it was a false report as the result of my powering off the machine and draining the tub either through Rinse and Spin or using the drain test in the Diagnostic mode..... figgered the machine was giving me the digital finger for making it work so much.

 

Alright, I will order the parts and get those switched out then. Will report back in a couple of days.

 

Many thanks again for all of the knowledge and deductive reasoning.



#14 john63

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 10:34 PM

<<<Alright, I will order the parts and get those switched out then. Will report back in a couple of days.>>>

 

**********

 

Sounds Good:)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#15 kavadon

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 11:53 PM

Happy to report that all appears to be well after replacing both of the water inlet valves.

 

Better half took the kids out for a couple of hours so I could swap the parts out. All went well, and no problems at all after installs. Working on the fifth load now. Interestingly enough - the freakin' washer is making less noise than it has in a couple of months. Maybe the problem was just building and I just didn't realize it?

 

Anyway - John, I owe you for the knowledge. Life appears to be back to normal.






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