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Kenmore Dryer Thermal Fuse On Element Housing


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6 replies to this topic

#1 ApplianceDoctor

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Posted 01 September 2013 - 11:27 PM

I have worked on a Kenmore dryer over a year ago and replaced Thermal Fuse kit P # 279769 located on the element housing. The first time the fuse lasted over a year. Two months ago I was called back on this dryer and found fuse blown again. I replaced fuse kit again, also found dryer receptacle was bad inside and burned. Recommended customer to replace receptacle which they did not do. Fuse blows again. Customer replaces receptacle and I replace thermal fuse again. Fuse blows again. 

 

I have checked heating element and it is showing ohms and not showing to be grounded also vent doesn't seemed to be blocked. I have also checked amp draw of element and it seems to be OK.

 

Has anyone any info that might help me? Thank You

 

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#2 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 02:07 AM

model number? It is usually a good idea to replace the thermal cut off and the hi limit together. While you are at it, you might as well replace the cycling thermostat too. It's possible your cycling thermostat doesn't cycle off and the dryer "cycled" on the hi limit causing it to fail in a closed position leaving the cutoff as the last defense. If they tell you their clothes were drying very fast then you can bet that is the scenario you are dealing with. So that you don't unnecessarily blow another cutoff.. TEMPORARILY bypass the cutoff and check for dryer to cycle on and off Also check vent exhaust for temperatures.

Are you using genuine whirlpool parts?

ps: i only seen it once but we had a customer who kept blowing thermal fuses amd the culprit? Somehow a quarter got wedged in the main fuse.. . causing the house breaker and thermal cutoff to trip repeatedly. I can't explain the theory behind that. Maybe someone else can. But I guess you may as well. change the. dryer's main fuse as well... in short, change all your fuses... lol

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#3 ApplianceDoctor

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 08:53 AM

M # is 110.86983810 I replaced hi limit along with thermal fuse, also used genuine Whirlpool parts. I also replaced cycling thermostat with generic part. I have bypassed thermal fuse and ran dryer for awhile checking amp draw of element. Name plate rating for element says 23 amps. When element first comes on meter shows 24 amps, amps instantly starts dropping down and drops below 23 amps to around 22.60 amps. Also checked dryer temp. while I had thermal fuse bypassed, temperature was averaging 149 degrees with vent unhooked and about 151 degrees with vent hooked up. Also element is cycling on and off, saying to me that cycling thermostat is OK. With temperature of dryer running 151 degrees with vent hooked up I can not see a vent problem existing here, also air flow from vent seems to be OK. Does anyone else have anymore info that would be helpful.



#4 MicaBay

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 09:32 AM

What about the wiring? Is it good and tight? Any burnt marks on the female connectors? Loose connections can cause resistance ie extra heat at that spot.

Door seal? Drum seal? Blower housing seal? Blower wheel function fully? Proper blower wheel? (Once found one that was wrong for machine and undersized) Vent hood fully connected? Vent screen clean?

Edited by micabay, 02 September 2013 - 09:38 AM.


#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 10:43 AM

Dryer Vent 4" diameter

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
$ 3.99 sometimes on sale for $ 2.99

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#6 JJ Surfer

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Posted 03 September 2013 - 02:23 AM

What about the wiring? Is it good and tight? Any burnt marks on the female connectors? Loose connections can cause resistance ie extra heat at that spot.

#7 JJ Surfer

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Posted 03 September 2013 - 02:28 AM

If you have replaced the hi limit kit repeatedly the spade connectors might be loose this, could be creating heat as mica bay pointed out. You want to verify that the dryer is cycling on the operating thermostat by putting your meter leads on both sides of the thermostat. When the dryer is heating there should be 0 volts, when it stops heating there should be 220-240volts. If not then it is cycling on the high limit.




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