Posted 02 September 2013 - 02:07 AM
model number? It is usually a good idea to replace the thermal cut off and the hi limit together. While you are at it, you might as well replace the cycling thermostat too. It's possible your cycling thermostat doesn't cycle off and the dryer "cycled" on the hi limit causing it to fail in a closed position leaving the cutoff as the last defense. If they tell you their clothes were drying very fast then you can bet that is the scenario you are dealing with. So that you don't unnecessarily blow another cutoff.. TEMPORARILY bypass the cutoff and check for dryer to cycle on and off Also check vent exhaust for temperatures.
Are you using genuine whirlpool parts?
ps: i only seen it once but we had a customer who kept blowing thermal fuses amd the culprit? Somehow a quarter got wedged in the main fuse.. . causing the house breaker and thermal cutoff to trip repeatedly. I can't explain the theory behind that. Maybe someone else can. But I guess you may as well. change the. dryer's main fuse as well... in short, change all your fuses... lol
Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.
The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist
"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist
"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.