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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

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Woodster58

GE Side by Side TFS28PPDA BS freezer working but not Refrigerator

39 posts in this topic

My freezer is working but my refrigerator is not cooling.  Fan in freezer seems to be going all the time.

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What are the actual temps and what are your control settings?

Do you feel any air coming into the fridge through the damper?

Is your compressor running? It should be warm and vibrating, not real hot or cold

Is there frost built up on your evaporator cover inside the freezer? Remove the cover and send us a picture of your evaporator.

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Can you tell me where the evaporator cover is?  Is it behind the ice maker?

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Evaporator # 228

Evaporator Cover # 214

G0203095-00003.png

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I do not have anything to get a temperature reading in the Refrigerator. But I can run get something if i need to. The temperature is not keeping anything cols at all and the control settings are at 7.  

 

I do not feel any air running out of the damper.  I assume those are the vents in the upper left hand corner of the refrigerator next the freezer wall?

 

I believe i know where the evaporator is now and it does have frost on the cover.  I will take the cover off and send a picture. 

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... it does have frost on the cover.  I will take the cover off and send a picture.

yes, Defrost problem

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Do i need to take out the ice maker to remove the evaporator cover?

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The shelve rails are in the way so i can not remove the evaporator cover.  The rails go all the way up past the ice maker with two bolts at the top.  I believe I can only get to the two bolts if i take out the ice maker? 

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You may have to remove trays and a few of the tray supports but not the ice maker

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Thanks. I have had to remove all the trays and loosened up the tray rails but I cannot slide the cover off with the rails as they are.  The right rail has a large flange below the cover that covers a copper tube and sensor that comes from the bottom of the freezer into the evaporator cavity behind the cover.  This flange and the onthis side will not allow me to slide the evaporator cover down and out to view the evaporator.  It sound like i am doing something wrong here..   

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just pull either the left side or the right side of the cover towards you. Frost may be restricting it. Sometimes i use needle nose pliers or something and. grasp on the vent near the bottom of the cover and pull. I think the flange you are talking about is the condensate drain tray or heater assembly and the tube is the quartz defrost heater. Well, that's my best guess.

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Ok I had to take out the ice maker and remove the rails to get the panel removed.  I have a picture but cannot seem to attach it to the post?  The evaporator is iced up pretty bad.

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okay, great.... no need to post a picture. You either have a problem with the timer, the defrost limit or the heater. Do yoy know how to take continuity readings using a meter?

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no i do not. But willing to learn.

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I have meter to read continuity.

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okay.... i don't have a manual so I gonna have to go on memory...... do you see a pink and blue line running from the heaters to a white rubber connector above the evap? If so, disconnect it and check the pins that corresponds to the blue and pink wires. That connector should have three pins, if not you have a different kind if connector than what i assume.

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There is pink line that runs on the right side (as you are looking at it) from the bottom of the evaporator that goes somewhere on top.  Then there is a blue line that runs parallel on the left side of the evaporator to the top.  I cannot see the rubber connector as it looks like they come out behind the fan housing.  Do i need to take the white fan housing out?

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it looks like the fan housing holds up the evaporator.  I think these are the wires you are talking about but if i take the connector apart there is not enough lead to put it back together without removing the fan housing.  And if it is holding up the evaporator i do not want to damage that.  Any thoughts?

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you have to remove the fan housing. it is a pain. I normally would test the timer first . Just in case it is the problem. it's inside the fresh food compartment besides the controls. But I need to look. at your fridge to see exactly where it is. Probably if you remove the light lense, you will see . a small hole or a small hole covered with a white plastic plug. If we can't locate it, proceed to remove the fan housing3

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okay, great.... no need to post a picture. You either have a problem with the timer, the defrost limit or the heater. Do yoy know how to take continuity readings using a meter?

 

 

Yep.  Let's make it easy and just replace all three and gut the beast, they're all finicky and failure-prone, avoid another repair in 6 months:

 

Defrost heater:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Heater-Assembly/WR51X10055/914088?modelNumber=TFS28PPDABS

 

Defrost-Heater-Assembly-WR51X10055-00910

 

Defrost timer:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Timer/WR9X489/2578?modelNumber=TFS28PPDABS

 

Defrost-Timer-WR9X489-00813591.jpg

 

 

Defrost thermostat: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Thermostat/WR50X122/2387?modelNumber=TFS28PPDABS

 

Defrost-Thermostat-WR50X122-00554862.jpg

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That was my thought also.  I have those in my shopping cart.  I will place the order now after your suggestion.  It looks like they are easier to replace than to test. I will reach out after i get them and are ready to install..Thank you for all your help so far.

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Ok I just placed the order for all three.  I want to thank you for helping on a Holiday!  You are great to work with.

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Let us know how it turns out!  

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Also, you need to fully defrost the Evap coils before the fridge will fully function properly.

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Also, you need to fully defrost the Evap coils before the fridge will fully function properly.

As well as the air return port

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