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DrK

Maytag LAT9806AAE agitates, but won't spin.

14 posts in this topic

Thw washer agitates and the pump works. The belt just smokes in spin cycle.  I can barely turn the transmission pulley clockwise by hand. I suspect the problem is with the tub bearing or brake assembly, but don' know how to tell which one is causing the problem. Any advuice would be gretly appreciated.

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Yup, you have a bad tub bearing, which is usually caused by a leaking tub seal.

 

Here is what you will need :

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Bearing/62040130/1472880

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Seal/62095720/1478842

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Spanner-Wrench/22038313/1590

 

Plan on spending 2 to 3 hours on this job.

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If there are signs of water slung around at the base of the tub inside the washer then, YES, what ScotttheWolf said above.

 

If there haven't been any problems prior to this, (no leaking or louder during spin then normal), then I would be looking for something like a sock or wash cloth stuck between the spin basket and outer tub.

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Yup, you have a bad tub bearing, which is usually caused by a leaking tub seal.

 

Here is what you will need :

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Bearing/62040130/1472880

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Seal/62095720/1478842

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Spanner-Wrench/22038313/1590

 

Plan on spending 2 to 3 hours on this job.

 

 

And here's a play-by-play on how to replace it:  http://fixitnow.com/wp/2007/05/18/how-to-replace-the-mounting-stemseal-and-tub-bearing-in-a-maytag-dependable-care-washer/

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Thank you Scottthewolf and Sensei for your great advice. I was able to replace the tub bearing a seal in about 2 hours. The tub will spin easily when I turn the pully. However, when I tried to run the spin cycle with no water as the instructions said the washer will not come on. I did have the machne laying on it's back when I was thinking I might need to replace the brake package. Is there an off balance sensor somewehre that might meed to be reset? Or anything else simple I am overlooking?

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Thank you all for your help. So far I have replaced the tub bearing and seal. The lid switch checks out with my ohmmeter. I also tried a jumper in the connector to bypass the lid switch , but it still won't spin.I hooked a test cord up to the motor and the machine will spin and agitate fine when bypassing the timer. The timer is only a couple of months old and was working fine when the bearing went out. It still cycles through a setting and does everything, but spin. Does it sound like I might have damaged the timer somehow during my repairs? I am going to try to see if I can find a bad connection between the timer and motor, but I am not great at reading wiring diagrams. Any further advice?

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Video shows how to bypass lid switch.

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tub seals are not made good now and days! why?

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Video shows how to bypass lid switch.

Thanks bigbuck. I tried to bypass the timer, but still no spin.I can still get it to spin by hooking power up directly to the motor. That is why I think there must be an open wire or loose connection somehwere. I don't know how I could have damaged the timer by repacing the tub bearing and seal.

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Have you bypass the lid switch exactly like in the video?

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These are tricky lid switches to check with your meter. 9 times out of ten they will show continuity even when they are bad. Try replacing the lid switch with a brand new one.

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These are tricky lid switches to check with your meter. 9 times out of ten they will show continuity even when they are bad. Try replacing the lid switch with a brand new one.

 

 

Lid Switch assembly:  http://www.repairclinic.com/vwo2/PartDetail/Lid-Switch-Assembly/12001908/916383?modelNumber=LAT9806AAE

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I think that lid switch is also your problem.

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