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Exorcism needed for LG Dishwasher!


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19 replies to this topic

#1 Robert Wilke

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 09:05 AM

Ladies and Gents,

      Have a LG LDF7510ST dishwasher that has me whupped.   You know that palmolive really does wonders for your hands :^)  Months ago this North Korean piece of stainless the wife just had to have starts cutting off mid cycle.   The kids start holding down the buttons and whatever to finish a cycle then it goes kaput.   It give out some codes LE, IE if I remember right and I take about the pump motor looking for debris.  Nothing look amiss.

 

    I do find that on the PCB the main wires have melted around the fittings, White/Black and Brown/Org so I buy a new board.

 

New board goes in but then the machine will not drain.   Send board back.

New board goes in but then the machine will not drain again,   I check the hose and clean and reroute it.  And replaced the drain pump.

Same thing, no drain after initial fill.

 

*****Then while looking at the North Korean product she shuts off.   I turn it back on and she drains.  **** 

 

But now does not fill.

 

Replace the inlet water solinoid.

 

Same thing.

 

Water does dribble in, but not much.   Pump seems to run all the time.  Cleaning arms do not move.  And machine will not shut off after running a complete cycle.   Also no codes are given.

 

   Any clue on what to check and how to check it.  She's been out 2 months!



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#2 john63

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 10:05 AM

Check the Model Number (incorrect) and post the Serial Number...


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 PDuff

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 01:33 PM

Sounds like a voltage problem, Robert.  Check the wire connections at the main power box located bottom/front/left.  Look for damaged wires or a loose neutral.



#4 john63

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 11:58 PM

<<<Have a LG LDF7510ST dishwasher>>>

 

**********

 

Incorrect Model Number

 

**********

 

<<<Months ago this North Korean piece of stainless the wife just had to have starts cutting off mid cycle.>>>

 

**********

 

When the dishwasher "cut off"----was there an error message displayed---or did the entire Control Panel "go dead/no lights?"

 

**********

 

<<<I take about the pump motor looking for debris.  Nothing look amiss.>>>

 

**********

 

Which "pump motor" ?

 

1) Wash Motor (located inside the tub---center)

 

2) Drain Motor (located *under* the dishwasher---requires removing the entire dishwasher from the counter for access)

 

**********

 

  <<<I do find that on the PCB the main wires have melted around the fittings, White/Black and Brown/Org so I buy a new board.>>>

 

**********

 

Normal.

 

Older LG dishwashers had a soft/black tar-like insulation & sound deadening material.

Wires and plugs at/near the Main Board---can appear to have been damaged by *heat*---having a "melted appearance".

 

The WIRE HARNESS/LOOM which runs/routes from the bottom of the door---up to the Detergent Dispenser---DOES BECOME DAMAGED OFTEN (pulled apart).

Inspect/verify that all of the wires in the door cavity are undamaged.

Wrap electrical tape around the entire Wire Harness---from the bottom of the door up to the Dispenser.

Add a small section of cardboard---between the Wire Harness and the black-color Insulation.

Problems with wiring---solved.

 

**********

 

<<<New board goes in but then the machine will not drain.   Send board back.

New board goes in but then the machine will not drain again, >>>

 

**********

 

Post the *Part Number* of both Main Boards that were installed.

 

**********

 

<<<I check the hose and clean and reroute it.  And replaced the drain pump.

Same thing, no drain after initial fill.>>>

 

**********

 

Any error message at this point?  "OE" perhaps? Drain Motor buzzing noise?

 

**********

 

<<<*****Then while looking at the North Korean product she shuts off.   I turn it back on and she drains.  **** 

 

But now does not fill.>>>

 

**********

 

Here's why it's *imperative* to have the full Model & Serial Number...

 

At first glance---based on your post---it appears that there's an issue with the Main Board:

1) Shutting off unexpectedly

2) "LE" & "iE" errors

3) Not Draining

4) Not Filling Water or very slow fill

5) Cycle will not end

 

Let's assume that this is an LG dishwasher LDF7810ST---and that we want to order a new Main Board...

 

The correct MAIN BOARD part number is determined by the Serial Number...

 

1) 601KWxxx------> 6871DD1014C

 

2) 602KWxxx through 612KWxxx-----> 6871DD1006G

 

3) 701KWxxx and newer-----> 6871DD1006L

 

If the *incorrect* Main Board has been installed---the dishwasher will "behave" like a computer that became "self-aware" and is lashing out at her owner :)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 Robert Wilke

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Posted 05 September 2013 - 06:33 AM

Thanks fellas for all the information and leads,  I will print out the chain and take a look at the new PCB number.   

BTW the numbers for my North Korean product are LDF 7810ST and 503KW00327

 

I did look at the wiring closely as I have read that that is a main issue and did not see any broken wires.   I will pull the main power wires today and clean grounds and check to see if any fittings are loose.   I've had it in and out of the cabinet a dozen times, and am ready to start looking to go to small appliance repair school after this event :^)



#6 PDuff

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Posted 05 September 2013 - 08:06 AM

Sounds like a voltage problem, Robert.  Check the wire connections at the main power box located bottom/front/left.  Look for damaged wires or a loose neutral.

 

Whoops!  I meant bottom/front/right.  I must've been facing the other way.



#7 john63

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Posted 05 September 2013 - 09:11 PM

<<< LDF 7810ST and 503KW00327>>>

 

**********

 

5----------> 2005

03--------> March

K---------> Country of Origin (Korea)

W--------> Factory ID

00327--> Three hundred twenty-seventh LDF7810 built during month of March 2005

 

Correct MAIN BOARD Part Number------> 6871DD1006S

 

Plan of Attack (suggestions) coming shortly...


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 john63

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 12:53 AM

Okay...

 

These are the steps that I'd take:

 

1) Verify that the MAIN BOARD is correct (6871DD1006S)

 

2) Verify that the wiring at the Terminal Box are good and tight (per PDUff's suggestion)

 

3) Verify that the WIRING inside the door---from the bottom of the door up to the Dispenser Housing are not damaged.

    Wrap with electrical tape and place cardboard between the Wire Loom and Insulation Material (black tar).

 

4) Verify that none of the Buttons/Keypads at the top of the Control Panel are sticking---the buttons should move freely down---then

    back up (not a lot---just a tiny amount of movement)

 

If the above steps check out---continue...

 

1) Unplug/disconnect power and remove the dishwasher from the counter

 

2) Remove the left-side metal panel on the side of the dishwasher

 

3) Inspect the FLOAT ASSY for heavy contamination/debris/build-up

    It may be possible to remove and clean---so that the dual foam floats can move freely up and down.

    I prefer replacing the FLOAT ASSY (4769DD2001A) if there's heavy scum evident/visible.

    Stuck float(s) will cause odd symptoms (sometimes intermittently)...

 

A) Filling with water---then draining---then refilling

B) IE error message

C) Gurgling/suction sounds during wash

D) Poor wash/cleaning performance

E) 1E error (erratic wash motor RPMs)

 

4) Inspect the GUIDE ASSY (4975DD1001A)---this is the larger plastic housing that is next to the Float Assy.

    The GUIDE ASSY is where water entering the tub---flows through.

    If there's heavy *iron* accumulation (reddish color)---replace it.

    Iron accumulation will cause the internal Hall Sensor to malfunction---causing erratic/false feedback to Main Board.

    If the Hall Sensor within the GUIDE ASSY is unable to "see" or "read" the amount of water that is entering the tub---the

    dishwasher will not clean adequately---and it will "behave" erratically as well. Such as fill with water---then a long period of draining.

 

5) Tip the dishwasher onto it's back and remove the bottom access plate/panel.

 

6) Looking at the center of the dishwasher (while on it's back)---you'll see a large/gray assembly with a Wash Motor in the

    center. This is the SUMP ASSEMBLY.

    At the 9 o'clock position of the Sump Assy---remove the black hose.

    Disconnect the other end of that hose---from the FLOAT ASSY.

    This hose can become partially/fully blocked with scum/fatty deposits---thoroughly clean out this hose and re-install.

    If this hose is blocked---this too will cause odd dishwasher behavior.

 

At this point---you can re-install the dishwasher and perform a test/run cycle.

 

 

 

It's worth noting that all LG dishwashers built before 2008---were highly prone to WASH MOTOR failure (manufacturing defect).

For this model (and year-of-build)---it's best to replace the entire SUMP ASSEMBLY (AJH31248604) rather than just the WASH MOTOR.

Replacing the Wash Motor *only*---is not advised for two reasons:

 

1) The GASKET under the FIlter Assy (located under the lower wash arm)---is difficult to properly handle/seat during re-assembly.

 

2) The SEAL for the Wash Motor is *not* available separately. Re-using the original Seal is never a good idea (water seepage)

 

The symptoms for a failing/degrading Wash Motor will be...

 

A) Noisy during wash

B) Poor wash results (especially the upper rack)

C) Intermittent "LE" error (or permanent/never starts the wash cycle)

 

Keep us informed---Good Luck:)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 Robert Wilke

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 08:24 AM

Fellas, Thanks for all the tips!   I have the LG running right across from me but still no luck.   Here is a update: 


These are the steps that I'd take:

 

1) Verify that the MAIN BOARD is correct (6871DD1006S)

 

     -   The new main board is a differant number :  6870ed9001c   

 

-  I have been running the rinse cycle this morning.   As soon as I connect power to thsystem she goes into drain mode.  and this never shuts off until I disconnent power

 

2) Verify that the wiring at the Terminal Box are good and tight (per PDUff's suggestion)

 

-    Cleaned the grounds again and twisted the caps tight

 

3) Verify that the WIRING inside the door---from the bottom of the door up to the Dispenser Housing are not damaged.

    Wrap with electrical tape and place cardboard between the Wire Loom and Insulation Material (black tar).

 

-   Rechecked the wires for cracks and do not see anything amiss

 

4) Verify that none of the Buttons/Keypads at the top of the Control Panel are sticking---the buttons should move freely down---then

    back up (not a lot---just a tiny amount of movement)

 

-   This was a problem before I changed the button part last month

 

If the above steps check out---continue...

 

1) Unplug/disconnect power and remove the dishwasher from the counter

 

2) Remove the left-side metal panel on the side of the dishwasher

 

3) Inspect the FLOAT ASSY for heavy contamination/debris/build-up

    It may be possible to remove and clean---so that the dual foam floats can move freely up and down.

    I prefer replacing the FLOAT ASSY (4769DD2001A) if there's heavy scum evident/visible.

    Stuck float(s) will cause odd symptoms (sometimes intermittently)...

 

--  Cleaned the plastic floats and housing which had some gunk in it.   Watching it thru the cycle I can see the water go in,  and since I had some dirty test cups inside it seems that water does come out the arms but not with force, and the arms do not move at all in the cycle.   The drain always seems to be on.    I just got up and cut the power as the rinse cycle completed but the machine would not shut off and the drain pump keeps running.  I can hear the motor assembly change pitch as it switches into another mode.

 

A) Filling with water---then draining---then refilling

B) IE error message

C) Gurgling/suction sounds during wash

D) Poor wash/cleaning performance

E) 1E error (erratic wash motor RPMs)

 

4) Inspect the GUIDE ASSY (4975DD1001A)---this is the larger plastic housing that is next to the Float Assy.

    The GUIDE ASSY is where water entering the tub---flows through.

    If there's heavy *iron* accumulation (reddish color)---replace it.

    Iron accumulation will cause the internal Hall Sensor to malfunction---causing erratic/false feedback to Main Board.

    If the Hall Sensor within the GUIDE ASSY is unable to "see" or "read" the amount of water that is entering the tub---the

    dishwasher will not clean adequately---and it will "behave" erratically as well. Such as fill with water---then a long period of draining.

 

5) Tip the dishwasher onto it's back and remove the bottom access plate/panel.

 

6) Looking at the center of the dishwasher (while on it's back)---you'll see a large/gray assembly with a Wash Motor in the

    center. This is the SUMP ASSEMBLY.

    At the 9 o'clock position of the Sump Assy---remove the black hose.

    Disconnect the other end of that hose---from the FLOAT ASSY.

    This hose can become partially/fully blocked with scum/fatty deposits---thoroughly clean out this hose and re-install.

    If this hose is blocked---this too will cause odd dishwasher behavor

 

----  All the hoses input and drain have been disconnected and cleared of debris,   there was some intiallly.

 

I will wait for your input in regards to the computer,  does anybody think it could be a motor assembly?   I replaced it about 18 months ago?   Right now it is close to being a new machine with all the part swapping.

 

At this point---you can re-install the dishwasher and perform a test/run cycle.

 

 

 

It's worth noting that all LG dishwashers built before 2008---were highly prone to WASH MOTOR failure (manufacturing defect).

For this model (and year-of-build)---it's best to replace the entire SUMP ASSEMBLY (AJH31248604) rather than just the WASH MOTOR.

Replacing the Wash Motor *only*---is not advised for two reasons:

 

1) The GASKET under the FIlter Assy (located under the lower wash arm)---is difficult to properly handle/seat during re-assembly.

 

2) The SEAL for the Wash Motor is *not* available separately. Re-using the original Seal is never a good idea (water seepage)

 

The symptoms for a failing/degrading Wash Motor will be...

 

A) Noisy during wash

B) Poor wash results (especially the upper rack)

C) Intermittent "LE" error (or permanent/never starts the wash cycle)

 

Keep us informed---Good Luck:)



#10 john63

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 10:21 AM

<<<The new main board is a differant number :  6870ed9001c>>>

 

**********

 

An invalid part number.

 

If this number is on the Main Board (sticker)---this is not always the actual part number.

 

The correct Main Board number should be 6871DD1006C

 

**********

 

<<<This was a problem before I changed the button part last month>>>

 

**********

 

If the buttons are "sticky"---removing and cleaning usually is all that is needed.

 

The "button part" is called the DISPLAY BOARD

 

Correct part number should be 6871DD2002A

 

At this point---I'd be focusing on the MAIN and DISPLAY BOARDS

 

If the original boards were saved (not discarded)---I'd re-install both and run the dishwasher through a test cycle.

 

It is important that the correct boards be used---or the dishwasher will never function as desired.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#11 Robert Wilke

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 11:35 AM

<<<The new main board is a differant number :  6870ed9001c>>>

 

**********

 

An invalid part number.

 

If this number is on the Main Board (sticker)---this is not always the actual part number.

 

The correct Main Board number should be 6871DD1006C

 

**********

 

<<<This was a problem before I changed the button part last month>>>

 

**********

 

If the buttons are "sticky"---removing and cleaning usually is all that is needed.

 

The "button part" is called the DISPLAY BOARD

 

Correct part number should be 6871DD2002A

 

At this point---I'd be focusing on the MAIN and DISPLAY BOARDS

 

If the original boards were saved (not discarded)---I'd re-install both and run the dishwasher through a test cycle.

 

It is important that the correct boards be used---or the dishwasher will never function as desired.

John,

    Thanks again for all the help,   I went and retrieved the box for the new  PCB and it is the right PCB 6871DD1006C

The display board part I replaced weeks ago does have a different number than you stated 6871DD2001B vice 2A which you state is correct.   Do you think this is the problem?

    I also took off the output pump/impeller and confirmed that this runs no stop when main power is put on even if machine is off.  Wiring looks good.



#12 Robert Wilke

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 12:00 PM

Just put back 6871dd2001B back on the machine and powered it up.  Same old thing, the pump comes on immediately.  I'll see what happens during the cycle.   I've easier times rebuilding car motors!



#13 john63

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 12:05 PM

 <<<I went and retrieved the box for the new  PCB and it is the right PCB 6871DD1006C>>>

 

**********

 

Forgive me Robert---the last digit/letter should be an "S" not a "C"

 

Doesn't seem like a big deal---but it is indeed. Re-check that number again...

 

**********

 

<<<The display board part I replaced weeks ago does have a different number than you stated 6871DD2001B vice 2A which you state is correct.   Do you think this is the problem?>>>

 

**********

 

The DISPLAY BOARD (6871DD2001B) is incorrect and WILL cause *some type* of malfunction.

Either a non-responsive control panel or unexplainable cycle activity.

The dishwasher *must* have the correct DISPLAY BOARD (6871DD2002A).


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#14 john63

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 12:16 PM

 <<<Same old thing, the pump comes on immediately.>>>

 

**********

 

The sequence on your dishwasher when it starts should be:

 

Close Door

 

Drain Motor activates for about 30 seconds (pumping out dirty water from loading dishes)

 

Water Valve Activates/Fills

 

Four "pressurization sounds" (to some---it would sound as if the Wash Motor is attempting to start but quits)---this is normal

 

On the fifth time---the Wash Motor will run (begin cycle)

 

 

**********

 

 <<<I've easier times rebuilding car motors!>>>

 

**********

 

I hear ya:)


I'll be out for awhile Robert---will check on your progress/findings in a few hours...


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#15 Robert Wilke

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 01:25 PM

John,

      Spent some time thinking about this machine again, since it's been down almost 2 months.   Since the drain keeps running non stop even with the machine off, would one of those little circle rubber flaps have anything to do with it?   When I disconnected the drain hose last month to clean it out one of those rubber flaps was in the hose.   I think the flap was from the motor housing as there are two there.

 

   Other than that,  I don't know if there are some ohm / power circut test I should be doing to figure out this constant power to the drain.

 

A few weeks back the drain motor would not go on at all and the tub filled and washed regularly until the drain cycle, after changing the drain pump, nothing changed, then I changed the PCB and after no change on 2 cycle trys, something switched and now the drain pump will not stop running, and the wash cycle is underpowered.  Some wacky stuff.   I read something about the noise suppressor?



#16 Robert Wilke

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 04:59 PM

John,

    The NEW PCB is 6871DD1006G.  What do you think?  Is it compatiable?  It came from a appliance part vendor.



#17 john63

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 05:26 PM

<<<the drain keeps running non stop even with the machine off,>>>

 

**********

 

That's a "dead-ringer" (symptom) for a failed/faulty FLOAT ASSY (4769DD2001A)

 

Usually caused by contamination within the Float Assy---but can also be a faulty *Microswitch* (on the Float Assy)

 

If looking at the *left* side of the dishwasher---the Float Assy can be identified as having a non-clear plastic sheathing that protects the 2 microswitches and plugs.

 

Looking at the Float Assy itself---the *left* side chamber/cavity---is the one that will allow the Drain Motor to run continuously if there's a fault/problem.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#18 john63

john63

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 05:31 PM

<<<The NEW PCB is 6871DD1006G.  What do you think?  Is it compatiable?>>>

 

**********

 

Affirmative:)

 

This MAIN BOARD will work in your dishwasher (LDF7810ST)

 

**********

 

<<<Since the drain keeps running non stop even with the machine off, would one of those little circle rubber flaps have anything to do with it?   When I disconnected the drain hose last month to clean it out one of those rubber flaps was in the hose.   I think the flap was from the motor housing as there are two there.>>>

 

**********

 

Those are anti-drain back "valves".

 

If they become disconnected---will cause slow drain. NOT continuous drain nor draining while the dishwasher is "off". Only a faulty Float Assy can cause a drain motor to run when the dishwasher is not even turned on.

 

As long as the Drain Hose is *elevated* (a loop)---the missing "check valve" should not be a cause for concern.

 

**********

 

 <<<I read something about the noise suppressor?>>>

 

**********

 

Not a factor/cause of any of your dishwasher symptoms. Protects the PCBs.


Edited by john63, 07 September 2013 - 05:41 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#19 Robert Wilke

Robert Wilke

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 08:01 AM

Thanks for all the tips Lord of LG!  I will order some new float assembiles and go from there.  I will report again soon hopefully with some good news!



#20 john63

john63

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 10:42 AM

Robert

 

While you're waiting for the replacement Float Assy...

 

Disconnect the plug to the Micro-Switch (left side/chamber)---does the Drain Motor stop running?

 

If yes---faulty Float Assy.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"




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