Fellas, Thanks for all the tips! I have the LG running right across from me but still no luck. Here is a update:
These are the steps that I'd take:
1) Verify that the MAIN BOARD is correct (6871DD1006S)
- The new main board is a differant number : 6870ed9001c
- I have been running the rinse cycle this morning. As soon as I connect power to thsystem she goes into drain mode. and this never shuts off until I disconnent power
2) Verify that the wiring at the Terminal Box are good and tight (per PDUff's suggestion)
- Cleaned the grounds again and twisted the caps tight
3) Verify that the WIRING inside the door---from the bottom of the door up to the Dispenser Housing are not damaged.
Wrap with electrical tape and place cardboard between the Wire Loom and Insulation Material (black tar).
- Rechecked the wires for cracks and do not see anything amiss
4) Verify that none of the Buttons/Keypads at the top of the Control Panel are sticking---the buttons should move freely down---then
back up (not a lot---just a tiny amount of movement)
- This was a problem before I changed the button part last month
If the above steps check out---continue...
1) Unplug/disconnect power and remove the dishwasher from the counter
2) Remove the left-side metal panel on the side of the dishwasher
3) Inspect the FLOAT ASSY for heavy contamination/debris/build-up
It may be possible to remove and clean---so that the dual foam floats can move freely up and down.
I prefer replacing the FLOAT ASSY (4769DD2001A) if there's heavy scum evident/visible.
Stuck float(s) will cause odd symptoms (sometimes intermittently)...
-- Cleaned the plastic floats and housing which had some gunk in it. Watching it thru the cycle I can see the water go in, and since I had some dirty test cups inside it seems that water does come out the arms but not with force, and the arms do not move at all in the cycle. The drain always seems to be on. I just got up and cut the power as the rinse cycle completed but the machine would not shut off and the drain pump keeps running. I can hear the motor assembly change pitch as it switches into another mode.
A) Filling with water---then draining---then refilling
IE error message
C) Gurgling/suction sounds during wash
D) Poor wash/cleaning performance
E) 1E error (erratic wash motor RPMs)
4) Inspect the GUIDE ASSY (4975DD1001A)---this is the larger plastic housing that is next to the Float Assy.
The GUIDE ASSY is where water entering the tub---flows through.
If there's heavy *iron* accumulation (reddish color)---replace it.
Iron accumulation will cause the internal Hall Sensor to malfunction---causing erratic/false feedback to Main Board.
If the Hall Sensor within the GUIDE ASSY is unable to "see" or "read" the amount of water that is entering the tub---the
dishwasher will not clean adequately---and it will "behave" erratically as well. Such as fill with water---then a long period of draining.
5) Tip the dishwasher onto it's back and remove the bottom access plate/panel.
6) Looking at the center of the dishwasher (while on it's back)---you'll see a large/gray assembly with a Wash Motor in the
center. This is the SUMP ASSEMBLY.
At the 9 o'clock position of the Sump Assy---remove the black hose.
Disconnect the other end of that hose---from the FLOAT ASSY.
This hose can become partially/fully blocked with scum/fatty deposits---thoroughly clean out this hose and re-install.
If this hose is blocked---this too will cause odd dishwasher behavor
---- All the hoses input and drain have been disconnected and cleared of debris, there was some intiallly.
I will wait for your input in regards to the computer, does anybody think it could be a motor assembly? I replaced it about 18 months ago? Right now it is close to being a new machine with all the part swapping.
At this point---you can re-install the dishwasher and perform a test/run cycle.
It's worth noting that all LG dishwashers built before 2008---were highly prone to WASH MOTOR failure (manufacturing defect).
For this model (and year-of-build)---it's best to replace the entire SUMP ASSEMBLY (AJH31248604) rather than just the WASH MOTOR.
Replacing the Wash Motor *only*---is not advised for two reasons:
1) The GASKET under the FIlter Assy (located under the lower wash arm)---is difficult to properly handle/seat during re-assembly.
2) The SEAL for the Wash Motor is *not* available separately. Re-using the original Seal is never a good idea (water seepage)
The symptoms for a failing/degrading Wash Motor will be...
A) Noisy during wash
Poor wash results (especially the upper rack)
C) Intermittent "LE" error (or permanent/never starts the wash cycle)
Keep us informed---Good Luck:)