Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Slapshot32

Fisher & Paykel GWL15 Water Pump Replacement

7 posts in this topic

Hi All,

 

As much as I like this washer, I'm a little hesitant to start throwing money at parts for our Fisher & Paykel GWL15 washer, but maybe someone can help put my mind at ease?

 

We started having issues not being able to make it through a full wash cycle.  It seemed that the tub would not fully drain, and my wife mentioned a slight burning smell.  When I started to investigate, it seemed like the water pump would engage, but only run for 10 or 15 seconds before shutting off, and sure enough, I could smell the "hot" smell as well.  It would be pumping out water during this time however.

 

After finding out how to enter the diagnostic mode, I was able to fill the tub with water and manually cycle the pump on and off.  Same result, it would run, and pump water from the tub, but if left on for 10 or 15 seconds, it would stop.  I also did verify a code of 37 (if I remember correctly).

 

So, getting underneath the machine, I noticed that the outside of the water pump was slightly wet (obviously not a good thing).  Not dripping a puddle on the floor wet, but damp to the touch.  Other than that, nothing else seemed to indicate a problem (no strange noises, the impeller spins freely, water pumps out of the tub, etc.)  I'm assuming it's the thermal cut-out inside the pump that is shutting it down, although I'm not 100% sure why it being damp would cause it to overheat to a point where it would trip the internal cut-out?

 

So my first inclination is that I need to replace the water pump.  However, I've read in many different locations that odds are if the water pump is bad, more than likely the control board is bad as well.  I know I also need to replace the agitator inside the tub, so if I start adding up the cost of a new pump, new agitator and new control board, I'm not sure if I want to go that route.

 

So, to the point(s):

1) Is it feasible that the water dripping could cause the motor to shut off and give the 37 error code?

2) Does anyone know how to verify if the control board is still good?  Is it safe to assume that if I can enter the diagnostic mode, and manually turn the pump motor on and off, that the board is still good?

 

Much Thanks!

Jim B.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

is the Drain Pump hot when it shuts itself OFF ?
Drain Pump / Controller problems were on the GWL10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While I don't have any way to physically measure the temperature of the pump, it is a little warm to the touch.  Last night I also verified that the diverter seems fine, as I was able to manipulate it via the diagnostic mode of the washer as well.

 

All seems to point toward the pump I guess.  Maybe the windings could be shorted?  I haven't physically removed it from the washer yet, but that will be my next step.  Just wondering if I should go ahead and order the new pump and not worry about the controller.

 

Thanks,

Jim B.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when the Pump stops, is there still 120vAC at the terminals (Pump still connected)
OR if you disconnect the Pump, you could test by applying 120vAC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Verified there is still 120V at the pump when it shuts down.  I guess this all points to the pump being bad and the controller being ok.

 

Still not sure where the point of water leakage on the pump is though, but I guess I will go ahead and order up the new pump and hope it lasts a little longer than the original did.

 

Thanks,

Jim B.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The board is not bad if the machine is running.  A board killed by the pump would = a dead machine.  You may get a dead board if you keep running the machine with a leaking pump.

 

Pretty much all F&P agitator toploaders can suffer a zapped board from a leaking pump.  GWL10 has a different electrical design with a 230v pump, mains current runs through the pump so a pump cut-out on thermal overload will make the machine effectively dead until the pump cools/resets.  All pumps have thermal overheat protection but only GWL10 interrupts power to the entire machine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A new pump (with inline fuse) and new agitator and it looks like we're back in the game.  Thanks for all the input!

 

Jim B.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites