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Fisher Paykal Dish Drawer F1 Code - DD306-SS


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14 replies to this topic

#1 Tone Blair

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Posted 05 September 2013 - 10:58 PM

DD306-SS

 

Customer complaint of F1

 

Ran Quick Cycle - Ran Fine

 

Ran Quick Diagnostic Test Twice - Ran Fine

 

Noticed suds in drawer, cleaned out suds, ran fine.

 

Checked Air gap and drain hose - Clear

 

No leaks from water valve.

 

All seals seem to be good.

 

Where are the flood sensors?

 

What else could be causing this?

 

How the hell do you remove the clear cover that covers the motor??  Seems like the part thats attached to the front panel is hard to get off.



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#2 danoam

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 12:45 PM

Don't worry about the motor cover,you don't have to go into there. I'd bet it's your lid motors, are they white or black. If white, replace them with the newer black ones, they are more durable and much quieter. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

#3 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 07:00 PM

Attached File  Main Filter.jpg   6.35KB   0 downloads

DD306-SS

 

Customer complaint of F1

 

Where are the flood sensors?

 

DD603-SS

 

Flood sensor sticks down to the pan under the bottom drawer on the "Mains Filterome" board.


We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

Mother Teresa

 

The views and opinions expressed in this post are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect or represent the views and opinions held by my employer. All data and information provided is for informational purposes only.

 

Big Brother

 


#4 Tone Blair

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 01:20 PM

Hey guys,

 

Thanks for the help.

 

I've actually never worked on one of these.

 

Danoam,  how would the lid motors cause F1 code? and where are they located?

Are they mounted to the rails? I seen 2 white things mounted on each of the rails, 4 total, are they it?

I guess you would need to remove both drawers to change them?

How do you remove rails?

How do you disconnect the drain/fill hoses? From where it connects under the motor cover?

 

Chat in FL

 

Thanks for the pic, so this is located under the bottom drawer? Under a black cover?

I actually seen this, and was wondering if that might be the flood sensor.

Do these go bad, and need to be replaced?

 

Is this a main computer problem?

Where is the computer located?

In the front cover?

 

How do you remove cover?

 

I dont want to waste a lot of time guessing on this, so I want  to go back with as much as info as possible.

 

Thanks!!!



#5 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 10:50 PM

F1 error, possible causes:

 

Inlet hose to inlet valve connection loose

Inlet valve body leak

Damage to the fill or drain hoses

Heater plate damage (chipped enamel)

Seals/O Rings (pinched, contaminated or poor join)

Dispenser (seal, diverter valve or weld leak)

Lid area (lid motors not functioning correctly, lid off yoke, yoke jammed or broken, or foreign object interfering with lid seal)


We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

Mother Teresa

 

The views and opinions expressed in this post are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect or represent the views and opinions held by my employer. All data and information provided is for informational purposes only.

 

Big Brother

 


#6 Tone Blair

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 06:39 PM

Yikes!

As far as i can tell the inlet hoses, drain hose, water valve are good.

 

Is it easy to check the heater plate?  How do you correctly remove motor cover?

 

Seals/O Rings - Where the hell are they?

 

Dispenser (seal, diverter valve or weld leak) - How do you check this?

 

Lid area (lid motors not functioning correctly, lid off yoke, yoke jammed or broken, or foreign object interfering with lid seal) - Where to start there?

 

Sounds like I might need to hand this over to Fisher/Paykal, but I would like to make an honest attempt at fixing this thing.


 


#7 Tone Blair

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 06:59 PM

Ok, I got a hold of the actual service manual, so its making a little more sense.

 

I do have some questions....

 

What does priming mean?

 

When the dishwasher is washing, are you able to open the drawer? Or is it supposed to locked?

 

I was able to open the drawer and it flooded it out, obviously, but after I dried it all up, and ran 2 Quick test cycles, I no longer got the F1 code.

 

Later that day, my customer told me it was flashing F1, both top and bottom.



#8 J5

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 02:30 AM

the lid motors bring the lid down during the wash so if you can open the drawer during wash you have your answer there

 

i would replace mains filter board as once wet they will corode

 

replace lid motors and i would be doing top and bottom at same time or you will be back again



#9 Tone Blair

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 02:38 AM

J5, im a bit dense.

So, if the lid motors worked properly, i wouldnt be able to open the drawer during wash??

Where are the lid motors located?

Where is the mains filter board??

Thanks!!

#10 J5

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 04:43 AM

i thought you got the service manual ?

 

yes you shouldnt be able to open the drawer during the wash

 

the lid motors are on the sides , the old are white , the new are black

 

the mains filter board is in the base behind the bottom drawer and under a cover



#11 PDuff

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 10:30 AM

F1 fault is displayed and both drawers shut down.  It's either a leak or the mains filter board thinks there is a leak.  Check the link assy's that keep the wire and hose harness out of the way of the lids for damage.  Make sure the lid actuator motors are pulling the lid down properly during operation.  You should not be able to open the drawer when washing.  If no standing water is found at the cabinet base or on top of the lower lid after running a cycle then it could be a shorted flood sensor on the mains filter board.



#12 Level2Learning

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 07:39 PM

Hey guys... Mind if I butt-in on this one?  First off, I am going to assume this is a DD603, not 306, because, theat number didn't exist.

 

So, first question, and an important one.  Was the F1 on both drawers simultaneously, with a beeping and flashing of the backlight on both displays?

 

If so, that is a flood error.

 

If NOT, that is an internal electrical fault, usually of the opposite drawer as the one that was running while the F1 appeared.

 

Most common problem for the early DD603 units is the plastic link arms that support and tuck the hose/harness assembly break, fail, causing the lid not to come down fully and water to leak at the rear of the drawers.  ALWAYS change these when you see them, regardless of good or bad.  This is per a 2005ish Fisher Paykel bulletin. Part 528437

 

A few tips while diagnosing these units:

 

1. You need the product code to order parts or look up bulletins.  On the DD units, it is the first 5 digits of the Serial Number.  On other FP Appliances it is a separate number on the tag.

2. Always drill down the behavior up to the failure, "which drawer was running when it failed"

3. Always check for corrosion at the "Mains Filter Board", bottom of the cabinet in the rear.  This supplies 120 VAC to the system, communicates with the door modules, powers lid motors when needed.

4. Stretch before servicing, call chiropractor after.

 

RJ


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#13 Tone Blair

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 09:23 PM

Level 2, indeed a 603.

 

Beeping on both units.

 

My first go at this unit, so I didn't pay attention to the plastic link arms, I did see them, but didn't check them out.

 

I looked at the board real quick, didn't see any corrosion, but didn't take my time either.

 

I'll let ya know how it goes, thanks for butt-ing in!!



#14 Level2Learning

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 09:48 PM

Tone... give me a ring on my office line, 802-464-3458, tonight if you like.  I can give you a 10-15 minute synopsis on how these dishwashers work.  FYI, the same unit is sold under the KitchenAid brand, and possibily a few others.  Have pen and paper at hand.

 

I am working on a presentation for a technical seminar I have later this week.  Burning the midnight oil...

 

Richard


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#15 DADoESTX

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 08:50 PM

FYI, the same unit is sold under the KitchenAid brand, and possibily a few others.

 

Only the 1st-generation KA units were sourced from F&P.  2nd-generation KA drawer units were not F&P, they were a different design Whirlpool obtained from Maytag with the purchase of said company in 1996, and were built by Fulgor for WP.

 

KA discontinued selling drawer units on the U.S. market a couple/few years ago.  They may still offer F&P sourced units on the European market.

 

Kenmore Elite and Maytag and JennAir drawer units offered drawer units for a while, they were always the Whirlpool/Fulgor-sourced design.






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