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Changing out bearings and seals in a LG F/L washer WM2442HW


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22 replies to this topic

#1 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 06:18 AM

Need any hints and advice about changing out the bearings and seal on a LG frontload washer.

 

Mod# WM2442HW

Ser# 506KW00856

 

I know the complete rear tub shell that contains new bearings, seals, shocks and all the hose can be purchased, but the customer doesn't want to spend the money for a complete rear tub shell and would like to go with just replacing the bearings and seals with the knowledge that it may not go as planned if it won't come apart and they will still be responsible for the labor cost of tear down.

 

Also a question regarding replacing the complete rear tub shell, original part# 3045ER0008A subs to AJQ35154201.   On the RepairClinic site it says, "The stator now mounts directly to the plastic tub without the metal mounting plate. Due to this change the stator and rotor will also need to be replaced. *Heat shield is no longer needed or manufactured.", which would really make this repair not the way to go for this customer.   On the AppliancePartsPro it says the old stator and rotor can be used and you don't have to purchase new when replacing the rear tub shell, which is it?

 

RepairClinic: http://www.repaircli...5154201/1396655

AppliancePartsPros: http://click.linksyn...-ap4442601.html


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

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#2 john63

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 10:42 AM

Willie

 

The original STATOR and ROTOR can be used on the re-designed REAR TUB ASSY.

 

However---there were many other changes that occurred in 2008---which requires triple-checking with LG to verify that the following parts will be compatible with the original stainless INNER DRUM and the FRONT TUB COVER.

 

INNER BEARING (4280FR4048L)

 

OUTER BEARING (4280FR4048E)

 

BEARING SEAL (4036ER2004A)

 

TUB O-RING/GASKET (4036ER4001B)

 

If your customer can wait until Monday---I can contact LG for definitive answers.

 

I'd also consider replacing these as well:

 

HALL EFFECT SENSOR (6501KW2002A)

 

Motor WIRE HARNESS (6877ER1016B)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 06:51 AM

Thanks John63, those are all the same part numbers I came up with, except for not thinking about needing the Hall Sensor or Motor Wire Harness, (Is this the upgraded Hall Sensor with the larger resistors that I'm sure I've read about many times in here from you?).

 

She has no problem waiting, I already informed her I would not make a commitment as for as scheduling the first visit to even evaluate the situation until I got some feedback on this.

 

More importantly I was looking for any hints/tips about changing the bearings and seals instead of just replacing the complete rear tub shell.  Have you ever changed out the bearings and seals in an LG or have you only done the replace the complete tub shell?


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#4 john63

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 11:55 PM

<<<Is this the upgraded Hall Sensor with the larger resistor>>>

 

**********

 

Yes

 

**********

 

<<<Have you ever changed out the bearings and seals in an LG or have you only done the replace the complete tub shell?>>>

 

Both.

 

If I am replacing the entire Rear Tub Assy and a new stainless steel Inner Tub---this repair will be done on-site.

 

If I am replacing the Bearings (and a new Inner Tub Assy)---the entire Tub Assy is removed form the washer and repaired/re-assembled off-site (too messy and noisy)

 

Try this:

 

1) Unplug and remove water fill hoses

 

2) Remove rear access panel

 

3) Remove Rotor (17mm)

 

4) Remove the screw from the small metal bracket---that keeps the Motor Wire Harness secure---and from rubbing the Rotor.

Remove all other screws which also secure the Motor Wire Harness to the tub.

 

5) Looking near the base of the washer on the left---you'll see 2 plugs wrapped in a clear bag.

Unwrap and disconnect both plugs.

Cut/remove the zip tie at the base of the washer.

 

6) Remove the Stator (10mm).

 

7) Replace both the Hall Sensor and Motor Wire Harness---and then re-wrap the plugs and add a new zip tie.

 

8) Place the Stator on the floor or under the Tub Assy

 

9) Pull off the black Hose from the Air Bell

 

NOTE: Some models will have the black Hose located on the right side of the Tub---if looking at the Tub Assy from the front of the washer. If it does---simply pull off the black Hose from the Water Level Sensor.

 

10) Remove the 4 Phillips screws from the rear Strut/Damper (at the top of the Strut) and pull the Strut towards the rear---clear of the Tub Assy.

 

11) Standing in front of the washer---open the Detergent Dispenser Cover and remove the 4 stainless steel screws.

 

12) Disconnect the Dispenser Assy from the top cover of the wash & let it drop down.

 

13) Using a putty knife---lift the top cover of the washer. The hinges are robust/strong and should be able to hold the weight of the top cover.

 

14) Disconnect the Bellows Hose (of the Dispenser) from the top of the Tub---try to re-position the Dispenser Assy over the left side of the washer---out the way.

 

15) Disconnect the Air Vent Hose from the top of the Tub Assy

 

16) Check for a small diameter black tube---at the top of the Tub Assy---on the left/rear corner. Pull it off.

 

17) Remove the Pump Clean-out cover/door panel

 

18) Remove the stainless steel screw from the square Plastic Housing---and pull out (unsnap) the Housing.

 

19) In the same area (pump clean-out) remove 2 screws from the bottom/base---these screws secure the Front Cover to the lower base

 

20) Open the washer door and remove the spring clamp from the door Gasket---and pull back/remove the Gasket from the Front Cover lip.

 

21) Remove the 2 stainless steel screws from the Door Lock Assy---and let it drop down to the base of the washer.

 

22) Remove the 2 screws from the top/corners of the Front Cover of the washer---lift/pull and remove the entire front of the washer

 

23) Remove the screws which secure the Brace/Support at the top/front of the washer (usually 6 in total)---and lift/remove the Brace

 

24) At the bottom of the Tub Assy---if there's an internal Tub Heater---disconnect the 2 wires from the Heater. Remove the earth/ground using a 10mm socket. Loosen the second 10mm bolt and pry/pull the Heating Element from the Tub.

 

25) Disconnect the Thermistor plug.

 

26) Remove both Tub Weights (10mm)

 

27) Disconnect the Tub-to-Pump Housing Bellows Hose---at the Pump Housing.

 

28) Remove the retainer pins from the left side and right side Struts/Dampers---from the Tub---not from the Base of the washer

 

29) At the top of the washer---pry away the retainer straps from each Tub Support Spring (left and right sides)

 

30) Grasp one of the Tub Support Springs and lift from it's anchor---lower Tub to floor.

 

31) Grasp the other Spring and lower Tub to floor

 

32) Remove both springs from the Tub Assy and return them to their anchor/mounts---on the washer cabinet

 

33) Carefully lift the Tub Assy from the washer frame

 

34) Remove all of the 10mm bolts that secure the two halves of the clamshell-design Tub Assy and pull apart.

 

35) Since we want to re-use the INNER TUB---check if the Inner Tub can be removed from the rear Tub Assy by hand (pulling)

 If the Inner Tub will not slide out from the Bearings---it will be necessary use a large punch (I use a steel punch that is almost the same diameter as the Bearing Shaft but thinner) and a heavy hammer (3 to 5 pound weight).

Penetrant spray is recommended.

 

36) With the Inner Drum removed---use a long punch to hammer out the Inner and Outer Bearings (I use a Tie Rod Separator Tool)

 

37) Install each new Bearing---using the original Bearings---as a Bearing Installer Tool.

Line-up the old Bearing perfectly on top of the new Bearing to be installed and---pound the new Bearings in place.

 

38) Install the new Bearing Seal---by hand until fully seated

 

39) Replace the Tub O-ring Gasket and re-assemble the Tub Assy.

 

40) Re-assemble in reverse order and test for water leaks/noise etc.

 

I hope that I didn't miss anything...

 

Good Luck:)


Edited by john63, 09 September 2013 - 12:02 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 07:36 AM

Thank you very much, pretty much what I expected but wanted to hear it from someone who is an expert on these such as yourself!!!

 

The service manuals do not have any useful info about the actual bearings and seals being change, just the basic teardown of individual parts of the washer.

 

I have the tool to do the Cabrio/Bravo/Oasis bearings, I'm hoping that is can be somewhat useful in reinstalling the bearings so I don't have to pound them in, (pressing with the installer tool should be much easier on the tub shell).  I'm sure the bearing mandrels are a different size and won't fit the bigger f/l bearings but hopefully will be able to adapt in some way.


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#6 john63

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 08:28 PM

Update:

 

According to the folks at LG Parts Research----the replacement Inner & Outer Bearings as well as the Bearing Seal are *compatible*  with the existing INNER DRUM and Tub Front Cover.

 

I find that they're correct about 80% of the time (verifying compatibility).

 

On some LG washers---changes were made to:

 

1) Inner/Outer Bearings (became larger)

 

2) Inner Drum (capacity was increased and Bearing Shaft diameter *decreased*)

 

3) Tub Front Cover made slightly larger (to accommodate the slightly larger Inner Tub)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 06:42 AM

OK, thanks for checking into that John.  I'm going to schedule this later this week and see if I have enough room in the laundry room to pull complete wash tub assembly and work on it at home or if I will have to take it out into her garage to work on it.

 

By the way, question about step# 8) Place the Stator on the floor or under the Tub Assy.  This doesn't seem like that good of an idea, why not just leave the stator off safely in a box or out of the way so as not to damage it.   Seems like under the tub assembly you could/would drop the tub assembly onto it if under the tub when removing the tub from the cabinet?


Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 10 September 2013 - 06:45 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#8 john63

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 10:17 AM

<<<By the way, question about step# 8) Place the Stator on the floor or under the Tub Assy.  This doesn't seem like that good of an idea, why not just leave the stator off safely in a box or out of the way so as not to damage it.   Seems like under the tub assembly you could/would drop the tub assembly onto it if under the tub when removing the tub from the cabinet?>>>

 

**********

 

Good Point !  :)

 

When I remove the STATOR---the new Hall Sensor and Wire Harness are replaced at that moment---and the plugs (in the "bag") are re-connected.

 

Having the Stator off the Tub lessens the weight of the tub for easier removal---and after the Tub Assy repairs are done and in the process of being re-installed back into the washer---the Stator is ready to be mounted.

 

CORRECTION (to step# 8)...

 

Place the Stator on the floor---outside/behind the washer (out of the way).

If the Tub Assy is being removed off-site for repairs---and will be completed at another time/day---place the Stator *within* the washer cabinet on floor *after* the Tub Assy has been removed :)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 06:45 AM

OK, that makes much more sense!


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#10 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 08:30 AM

John63, the support spider front bearing area is also worn down so I will need to also replace the spider.

 

Anything special or tips I should know about changing the spider part# 4434ER0002A?


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#11 john63

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 08:52 AM

It's best to replace the INNER DRUM---as the 6 bolts on the Spider/Trunnion are extremely tight and are threaded into the drum baffles.

 

Has the aluminum lip around the Bearing Shaft worn down?


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 06:40 AM

Are the six spider attachment bolts actually screwed into the plastic drum baffles or do your remove the baffles to access nuts behind the baffles, (that is what I thought from a question asked about replacing the spider on the AppliancePartsPros parts site about this part)?

 

I'm not sure what aluminum lip around the bearing shaft you are talking about.

 

The bearing and seal shaft on the spider is all machined metal, (sealing area also - no aluminum or brass sleeve pressed on shaft for sealing areas like I've seen in some others).

 

The middle section of the support shaft just after the larger seal surface of the shaft is worn down about 1/32" all the way around the shaft where the inner race of the front bearing would be riding on the shaft so if you installed the old shaft into brand new bearings the spin basket would still have a bunch of up/down slop just like it does now from the bad bearings and worn shaft.

 

If I have to replace the complete spin basket with spider and not able to just replace the spider, I'm most likely going to lose this job.

 

I guess tomorrow I will try to remove the old spider from the basket and if it comes apart OK give her the revised estimate for replacing the spider also which will only add an additional $100 to the job which she has already pretty much OK'ed.


Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 15 September 2013 - 06:45 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#13 john63

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 01:33 PM

<<<Are the six spider attachment bolts actually screwed into the plastic drum baffles>>>

 

**********

 

Since I always replace the INNER DRUM (LG lifetime part warranty)---I cannot recall the exact nut & bolt arrangement on this particular tub/drum.

 

The last time that I removed those 6 bolts on the 4434ER0002A-style drum (there are other types of Trunnion/Spiders used)---it was with an *impact tool*. But I can't recall much else---other than that those bolts were *extremely* tight.

 

**********

 

<<<I'm not sure what aluminum lip around the bearing shaft you are talking about.>>>

 

**********

 

Sorry for the confusing question---I meant on the *original* Trunnion Assy (aka Spider).

 

If you look at the image of the drum---the Bearing Shaft is at the center of the drum.

 

Looking closely---you'll notice---at the base of the Bearing Shaft---there's a raised circle (aluminum) that "runs" around the shaft on the "spider assy".

 

If this circle/ring is worn down on the *original* Trunnion/Spider Assy---it must be replaced.

 

 

 

 

http://www.repaircli...ER0002A/1267517


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#14 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 05:46 PM


**********

 

<<<I'm not sure what aluminum lip around the bearing shaft you are talking about.>>>

 

**********

 

Sorry for the confusing question---I meant on the *original* Trunnion Assy (aka Spider).

 

If you look at the image of the drum---the Bearing Shaft is at the center of the drum.

 

Looking closely---you'll notice---at the base of the Bearing Shaft---there's a raised circle (aluminum) that "runs" around the shaft on the "spider assy".

 

If this circle/ring is worn down on the *original* Trunnion/Spider Assy---it must be replaced.

 

Well, I guess at this point it doesn't really matter if that ring is worn down or not, (the shaft the inner bearing rides on is worn down), the spider has to be replaced one way or another anyway.

 

Thanks for your expert input on this.


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#15 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 07:09 AM

John63, I see the aluminum ring/lip that you are talking about now that I have the new spider, (the old one never had the lip), I see the new seal is also slightly different, (it has a small lip/ring of rubber sticking out the face of the seal that runs inside the aluminum ring/lip on the new spider).

 

Just for future reference if the old spider had been OK and didn't have that aluminum ring/lip, would it still be OK to use the old style spider with the new spin seal?   Would seem to me not to be a problem, the new style just seems to add a little extra protection of the actual sealing area from suds and scud.

 

The spider came loose from the stainless spin basket with no problem, 1/2" drive ratchet by hand, no need for an impact, looks like signs of red loctite on bolts - well reassemble with same, (spider does bolt into the three lifters, they each have two nuts captured in the back side of the lifter that the spider bolts into).

 

And one last question, should I - or would you advise to use a little anti-seize compound on the bearing sleeves and on the support shaft where it rides in the inner races of the bearings so that if it has to come apart for repairs in another 5 or 6 years that it might come apart easier?


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#16 john63

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 09:53 AM

 <<<I see the aluminum ring/lip that you are talking about now that I have the new spider, (the old one never had the lip)>>>

 

**********

 

The original Spider/Trunnion *did* have that lip---it's worn away.

 

**********

 

<<<The spider came loose from the stainless spin basket with no problem>>>

 

**********

 

Why is it that I always get the ones that fight tooth-and-nail:)

 

**********

 

<<<would you advise to use a little anti-seize compound on the bearing sleeves and on the support shaft where it rides in the inner races of the bearings so that if it has to come apart for repairs in another 5 or 6 years that it might come apart easier?>>>

 

**********

 

A good question.

 

I use *silicone* grease---as this type of lubricant is suitable for use on / around rubber seals/gaskets.

 

There's an LG training seminar coming up in a few days---that'll be one of the questions for our Training Instructor:)


Edited by john63, 20 September 2013 - 09:54 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#17 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 07:07 AM

Are you saying you use the silicone grease on the bearing sleeve and/or on the support shaft where it slides thru the inner bearings races or do you mean on the triple lip seal area, (The triple lip seal area is where I would have used my silicone lubricant - the new seal came pre-lubed with a white lubricant)?

 

You're the resident expert here on LG but I would have to challenge your statement, "The original Spider/Trunnion *did* have that lip---it's worn away.". 

1) Because the casting markings are obvious that there was never a ring/lip on the worn out spider.

2) the original seal front surface doesn't have the extra rubber protruding straight out the front surface of the seal to mate with the ring that is on the new updated spider assembly.

3) The new seal is obviously different/updated with the ring of rubber protruding out the front to mate with the ring on the spider, (the RepairClinic picture of the seal is a picture of the older/not upgraded seal which looks exactly like the old seal without the extra ring of rubber to mate with new updated spider).

 

I will take some pictures to add to this discussion later.

 

Also for any other techs trying to change out the bearings instead of replacing the rear tub shell, the Cabrio/Oasis/Bravo bearing tool W10447783 can be made to work for reinstalling the bearings with just the addition of two flat plates cut to the outer size of each bearing, (one for inner and on for outer bearing).  The inner bearing races are the exact same size as the Whirlpool bearings so they line up and hold the bearings straight and plumb while pulling them in.  I will include some pictures of the extra bearing install plates that I had a friend make for me also.

 

 


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#18 john63

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 11:15 AM

<<<Are you saying you use the silicone grease on the bearing sleeve and/or on the support shaft where it slides thru the inner bearings races or do you mean on the triple lip seal area>>>

**********

Both.

**********

<<<You're the resident expert here on LG but I would have to challenge your statement, "The original Spider/Trunnion *did* have that lip---it's worn away.".

1) Because the casting markings are obvious that there was never a ring/lip on the worn out spider.

2) the original seal front surface doesn't have the extra rubber protruding straight out the front surface of the seal to mate with the ring that is on the new updated spider assembly.

3) The new seal is obviously different/updated with the ring of rubber protruding out the front to mate with the ring on the spider, (the RepairClinic picture of the seal is a picture of the older/not upgraded seal which looks exactly like the old seal without the extra ring of rubber to mate with new updated spider).



I will take some pictures to add to this discussion later.>>>

**********

Okay---sounds good:)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#19 Budget Appliance Repair

Budget Appliance Repair

    Sensei

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 07:51 AM

Pictures of the W10447783 bearing install tool with the homemade extra bearing plates to pull in the larger diameter LG bearings.

 

Attached Files


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#20 Budget Appliance Repair

Budget Appliance Repair

    Sensei

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 08:03 AM

Here are the pictures of the worn out old style spider and tub spin seal and the new style showing the difference.

 

Also something I learned from doing this job that might help others, if you have a frontload washer that has a bad roaring bearing noise but still seems to spin OK and you can move the front end of the spin basket up/down 1/4" or so then you can be pretty sure you will need a new spider assembly, (or complete spin basket with spider if it's a brand that doesn't sell the two parts as separate parts).  If the bearings were really so bad that the front of the tub can be move up/down 1/4" or more the tub wouldn't be able to turn anymore at all, not just be loud when spinning.

Attached Files


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501




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