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Follow up Question for Whirlpool Bottom Mount Clogged Check Valve Video


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16 replies to this topic

#1 timbittes

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 03:10 PM

Follow up question to the video on Fixing a Clogged Defrost Drain Check Valve in a Whirlpool-built Bottom-Mount Refrigerator

http://appliantology.../#ixzz2eQa4LxJd
 

Whirlpool has replaced the $4.00 grommet part number W10309238 with a $35.00 part number W10619951 "tube-drain".  Can you explain the difference in these parts and should I do the fix from the video or buy the new part number?  I can't find a picture of this part so I am not sure what is involved in replacing it.  This is for a Maytag WBB1957WEB fridge (canada).  I don't have the problem yet but want to avoid the problem by fixing this before it happens.

 

Thanks in advance

Tim

 



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#2 Scottthewolf

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 09:19 PM

If it's not broke, don't fix it.


Scott Wolf

#3 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 06:16 AM

They have not replace the grommet part# W10309238 with the drain tube part# W10619951.

 

Part# W10619951 which is being called a drain tube isn't really a tube, it more of a water flume to direct the water leaving the drain out the grommet down to the drain pan.

 

Part ref# 31 in this picture:

28412180_4.gif


William Burk (Willie)
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#4 timbittes

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 08:12 AM

Thanks for the responses.  On the Whirlpool Canada Parts site when you enter part number  W10309238 it says replaced by W10619951.  I have not had the problem yet but the fridge is sitting in my basement on a laminate floor.  I am hopin to avoid water leaks if at all possible.  There is no water line to fridge- used as auxillary "beer" fridge for the man cave.



#5 frunch

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 10:36 AM

I'd go ahead and do the fix as the Samurai demonstrates in the video. I've done probably 15-20 of these in the past year or so. Look at it this way: when I have to go out and do the repair, it requires clearing out the food from the freezer, removing the drawer/rack/ice maker (sometimes), taking out the rack parts, removing the rear wall, getting all the ice out that's covering the drain, then reassembling....and then removing the stupid grommet and modifying it for better water flow. What would be a 5-minute job modifying the grommet that turns into an hour+ long job. All because of some stupid rubber cap. Considering how many of these I run into, I wouldn't wait for the problem to happen--I'd just get in there and do it. 

 

Trevor



#6 bigbuck

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 02:06 PM

I would just buy the  new grommet W10309238 and notch it out like Samurai says in video.



#7 Gnominator77

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 07:45 PM

They have replaced the 'duckbill' grommet (the 2nd extended one) with the W10619951 drain tube kit. It's a P trap drain tube kit... comes with a drain spacer and 2 P-traps for the 2 different applications.. you just choose your flavour. I've done a few of them... pretty easy. It's a case of what's old in new again. 



#8 MicaBay

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 09:57 PM

They have replaced the 'duckbill' grommet (the 2nd extended one) with the W10619951 drain tube kit. It's a P trap drain tube kit... comes with a drain spacer and 2 P-traps for the 2 diferent applications.. you just choose your flavour. I've done a few of them... pretty easy. It's a case of what's old in new again.


Just looked at repair clinic and the picture only shows the grommet. You're saying W10619951 is a kit that comes with a ptrap? http://www.repaircli...0619951/2887289

Edited by micabay, 13 September 2013 - 09:59 PM.


#9 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 06:34 AM

Doing a little more looking around after what Gnominator77 said, I stand corrected.   Some parts places still have just the W10309238 Grommet still available and haven't updated to the new part W10619951 Drain Tube kit yet.

 

I would hope RepairClinic just hasn't updated the picture to go with the part number yet.  They are calling it a "Drain Pipe" now but only showing a picture of the grommet.

 

At the price they have listed, ($35), it sure had better be more than just the grommet!!!!


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#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 07:49 AM

They have replaced the 'duckbill' grommet (the 2nd extended one) with the W10619951 drain tube kit. It's a P trap drain tube kit... comes with a drain spacer and 2 P-traps for the 2 different applications.. you just choose your flavour. I've done a few of them... pretty easy. It's a case of what's old in new again. 

 

 

Good info, Gnom, thanks!



#11 bigbuck

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 07:55 AM

https://dl.dropboxus...nter copy 2.pdf



#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 08:02 AM

Awesome!  Domo, bigbuck!   :dude:



#13 Gnominator77

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 08:06 AM

I took a picture of what comes in the kit. 

Attached Files



#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 08:08 AM

Looks good!  Got two on order from Marcone, they don't show any in stock at any warehouse.



#15 Ritz

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 08:57 AM

I received two of them today and scratched my head a bit.

Thanks for posting the update Samurai.

I was gonna blame my parts supplier for sending the wrong parts!

#16 timbittes

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Posted 01 October 2013 - 11:18 AM

Thanks for the info, that makes alot more sense. I cannot open the photo above, but was wondering how hard it is to install this. Can somone post the instructions included with the kit (referenced in the tech doc posted on dropbox)? Thanks Tim

#17 Tim M

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 08:12 PM

.     Given that Repair Clinic says there is a month wait on the new tube kit, I am guessing that they just haven't updated their picture from the second duckbill.  

 

.     I just ordered it from another supply house that said they had it in stock.  It finally arrived.  Opened it up and found they have just pasted the new drain tube number on the old second duckbill part!!!  I'm hoping it is just ignorance, and not shady dealings.

 

.   Now I wonder: do I go and adapt the old duckbill, or install and adapt the new duckbill, only to have the whole thing clog up anyway because they were bad designs and have to go back a again when the right part gets in?

 

.   I guess the solution is to adapt the old duckbill, defrost and clean the unit, then go back with the new part before it ices over again, and have a 10 minute installation of the correct part.  If the part house information hadn't misled me, I would have done that days ago, before they shipped the wrong part.


Edited by Tim M, 25 October 2013 - 08:17 PM.





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