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sluggo0018

GE GSS25LGMFWW Defrost Issues

11 posts in this topic

The freezer defrost function wasn't working and the evap was freezing up, causing temps in the freezer to warm up to 20-30 degrees F.  I did some research and decided to change the defrost heater (upgrading to the two element unit) and also changed the thermostat switch.  This didn't fix it so I replaced the motherboard.  I don't usually throw replacement parts at a problem hoping it will be fixed, but this time I did.  Shame on me!So at this point, the unit has a new heater, thermostat and motherboard. 

 

Today, I happened to notice that there was no fan or compressor noise coming from the unit.  I opened the freezer to see the glow of the heater below the evaporator and heard some sizzling noises as Ice melted down and dripped onto the heater. All was fixed I thought!   But it seems as though the defrost function doesn't stay on long enough.  There is still ice on the interior panel that covers the evaporator and freezer is still running warm at 20 degrees F well after the defrost cycle.  I haven't removed the cover to look at the coils, but I think there is still ice and frost.  Evap fan seems to be running properly.

 

Is there anything that I can adjust to prolong the defrost heater to fully defrost the coils?  What determines how long the defrost cycle runs?  When free of ice and frost, the freezer cools great, reaching 0 degrees F rapidly. 

 

Is there a way to manually activate the defrost cycle?  I'm guessing that there isn't considering the electronic controls. 

 

Does this unit have a defrost timer?  My understanding was that all defrost operations are controlled by the motherboard.

 

What is my next step?  I've been struggling with this freezer and I've gotten really fast at defrosting it, but I want it to work properly.  The wife is giving me a hard time about it.  She wants a new stainless steel fridge.

 

Thanks.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

that thermostat at the top of the coil is not a traditional defrost bimetal...it is a overtemp protector in case the heater sticks on a the board...you need to replace the thermistor adjacent to that thermostat...it controls duration of defrost cycle.

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Did you fully defrost everything?

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Did you fully defrost everything?

 

Yes.

 

The freezer was fully defrosted before I installed the motherboard.

 

Looks like I have one more item to replace.

 

I will order the thermistor and give that a try.

 

Is that a simple cut and splice procedure?

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Sluggo,

 

The thermistor is the most likely culprit on these refrigerators.  The board watches it during defrost and post defrost.  It ignores it during other cycles.

 

This particular thermistor is interchangeable with the rest and it is currently a WR55x10025, as long as the appliance has white wires going to it.

 

Because it operates at a temperature range of  about -25*F to 60*F up to 3 times a day, it takes a beating. Moisture is also known to 'creep' its way into the capsule.

 

When replacing, cut and splice it in AND fill the connector with a silicone, FDA food grade, (usually has a vinegar odor) sealant.

 

Good Luck.

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BigBuck... I believe he changed all of that already and has the same issue.

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mistake sorry , got people mixed up

Edited by Cactus Bob
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did you replace the thermistor ? post #4 of this thread ?

did you or did you not , "i think i did" does not count

 

 

At this point, I have relaced the defrost heater, thermostat, and mother board.

 

I don't ever recall saying that "i think i did" replace the thermistor.

 

The thermistor has been ordered and will be the next part replaced.

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Pretty easy to check the thermistor from the motherboard connector. (unplug the fridge from the wall) Find the connector at J1 and disconnect it. The freezer evaporator thermistor is connected to pins 4 & 5 (blue/white and blue). Ice water is 32 degrees and the thermistor should measure 16.3K Ohms at that temperature. This thread describes the procedure: http://appliantology.org/topic/43936-thermistor-magic/

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