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Karl Isselhardt

GE 10 Cycle 2 Speed Heavy Duty Super Capacity Washer BELT

23 posts in this topic

Howdy folks!  

So I wish I could tell you the model number for this washer, but for the life of me I can't find it anywhere! (Not on the front, inside the front cover, OR on the back of the washer.) We bought it used a few years ago, and so have no paperwork.

It's in a rental unit, so we haven't used it much.  The tenant reported a "burning" smell when washing, so this evening after work I went to take a look at it. 

I took the front cover off, and immediately found little bits of rubber in the bottom of the unit, plus in the bottom of the front cover.

Moving the belt and motor by hand, I noticed that for some reason, the belt was sometimes off-center from the shaft.

Either the belt is worn down in spots, or the pulley at the bottom of the motor is. (I'm betting on the belt)

There is a clip at the bottom of the shaft, holding the pulley on.  I removed the clip, but can't see how to remove the pulley (and the belt)

Can any of you brilliant people shed some light on the subject?  I can take photos if needed.

Thanks in advance for your help!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

  To remove the belt, loosen the four motor mounting stud nuts and slide motor back. The clutch inside the pulley usually gets stuck to the motor shaft and the pulley is attached to the clutch with a C-clip so it can be a little difficult to remove the pulley/clutch assembly.

 

Eric

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Also note that GE recommends replacing that clip instead of reusing them.

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A bit more useful information. This is the most common GE clutch: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Clutch/WH5X256/1223?modelNumber=WCSR2070T2WW . As to where to find the model number the basic model number is usually printed somewhere on the control panel. I've seen them printed behind the Timer Knob or on the very bottom edge where the tabs that join the control panel to the top of the washer are.

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OK, one last tip. To take the motor and clutch assembly out, turn the transmission so the wide part points side to side and tip the motor toward the center of the machine. You'll be able to tip it far enough that the clutch clears the mounting hole. First time I replaced a motor in one of these I, like a Newbie, took the clutch off first... :whistling:

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Okay, so I got the motor off, and lo and behold, the belt was all sorts of ugly.  (there was shredding going on)  Also, I noticed a lot of sticky brown liquid in the bottom of the cabinet.  

I removed the belt, got a replacement, installed it, checked to see it would spin the tub (mostly empty) then tried it with water.  

It won't move.

...I just took the control panel off and found a neatly folded sheet of paper with a wiring diagram and instructions on how to take it apart, ironically including removing the control panel! o_O 

Any thoughts on the brown gunk?  Transmission? Clutch? How can I tell?

 

TIA

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  Need that model number. What is the number of the wiring diagram? (31-?????). Can you rotate the transmission pulley in either direction by hand? Should be easy CCW (viewed from below) (agitate direction), a tad more difficult CW which should release the brake and rotate the transmission housing.  How about a photo with front panel removed.

 

Eric

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Any model number on that panel? They typically start with WCSR.

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The Publication number is 31-15243

I was able to move the inner basket, I did not try from the pulley end. I will do so this morning and report.

 

As to a photo, luckily I already took one. Here it is:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vaunwzz1fklayx3/2013-09-11_10-41-14_739.jpg

 

also, a closeup of the bottom of the cabinet after I removed the motor:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4wmbiifvmyu8y3x/2013-09-11_10-47-12_207.jpg

 

 

I spoke with a local repairman, and he is saying that the issue is probably with the transmission but that it's not repairable because the aluminum nut holding the basket on will have corroded.  (He is affiliated with, but not employed exclusively by, a local appliance store)

Thoughts?

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  The transmission is not repairable because there are no replacement parts for it. If the tub nut is frozen, it can be easily chiseled off or cut with dremel tool. Waiting for your report.

 

Eric

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That much oil is almost certainly from a bad transmission. Changing one is not for the faint hearted but not impossible. But you gotta ask yourself if $300+ is worth it. You should look at this page: http://www.repairclinic.com/GE-Washing-Machine-Transmission-Brake-Clutch-Parts?z=50 . The tranny is the second item on that link and you'll need thirty bucks or so for other basket parts and possibly the third item, a clutch. The smacket-wrench is also a pretty useful item: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Nut-Wrench/WX5X1325/753880 . That's pretty much a one-size-fits-all transmission but post a picture of the control panel itself and I can probably get closer to a model number. My crystal ball sees a row of 8 LEDS and a clicky knob and a gray 'start' button, but can't be sure.

Edited by olyteddy

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1) I couldn't get my hands directly on the large pulley attached to the transmission, but I could move it with the pulley attached to the motor)  ...should the transmission be moving too?  The spin cycle works okay, but the basket did not move in wash mode.

 

2) I removed the control panel, and wrote down everything that was printed on the bottom flange (hidden from normal view)  here's what it says (from Selector dial side to load size side) (upside down from standing in front of the machine)

WTE *barcode* 175D2443 SRB WKSR2100 GUSR2100 LRA PSC

 

There are no LEDs, it looks like this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zp3pehr62e9m3hn/2013-09-10_18-19-34_357.jpg


I have not gone any farther in disassembly than the pictures show, knowing that it's no small task.  

Edited by Zenodotus

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  Model number is WKSR2100, either T8 or T9. Yes, the whole transmission rotates in spin mode. Basket is not supposed to move in wash (agitate) mode, only agitator goes back and forth. Can you rotate the agitator by grabbing the lower fins and rotating them? If so, pull the agitator and coupler and check for stripped splines inside the coupler.

 

Eric

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If I try rotating the agitator, the whole basket moves.  I removed the agitator off, and the coupler looks fine, although the hex screw holding it on is VERY rusty.

Anything else?

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  You said you rotated the motor pulley in one direction and the transmission rotated. What happens when you rotate the motor pulley in the other direction? The transmission should not move, the agitator should go back and forth, have someone else observe the agitator. Looks like the agitator coupler is ok. Was it easy to rotate the basket by turning the lower agitator or very difficult? If it was easy, the brake isn't working.

 

Eric

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Okay, so here's my update:

 

It was hard to really get a good grip on the thing, but I got it moving a bit in either direction.  It was definitely difficult to move in either direction.  

The transmission also seemed to move in either direction. The agitator and the basket also moved together in either direction.

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It may not be a bad transmission, it may also be a ruined main outer tub seal and tub bearing. Try putting the machine in spin. If it roars like a jet plane or freight train, it's a bad tub seal and bearing.

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Okay, so here's my update:

It was hard to really get a good grip on the thing, but I got it moving a bit in either direction. It was definitely difficult to move in either direction.

The transmission also seemed to move in either direction. The agitator and the basket also moved together in either direction.

By this discribtion, you have a bad transmission. Like was said before the transmission only rotates one way and the basket goes too. the other way it doesn't move and neither does the basket, only the auger in this direction.

EDIT... If you were moving the pully directly below the transmission, I stand by my above statement.

Edited by micabay

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<EDIT> @ScottTheWolf:  It doesn't sound like a bad seal.  no really bad rubbing sounds.  Just your normal spin noise (a bit louder for not having the front cover on) </EDIT>


I was afraid of this.  

I was moving the belt which was on the pulley under the transmission.   I can't get my big mitts all the way in to move the pulley directly.

 

Okay...  well, expletive.

I think I am capable enough to replace the transmission, but does anyone think it's worth repairing?

If not, what's a worth-while replacement washer?  Someone I know recommended a brand called Speed Queen?

Thanks everyone, for your help!

Edited by Zenodotus

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  Yes, definitely a bad transmission. It should be very easy to rotate in agitate direction and transmission should not rotate while rotating pulley in agitate direction. That washers gotta be about 17 years old? Speed Queen is the only decent top loader left but will run you over $800

 

Eric

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only 17 years?  Heck, we're just finally facing the fact that we may have to replace my mother's Maytag.

That she got when she got married.  

In 1967.  

And that's because (probably) the timer is shot, and we can't get a replacement.

Sigh.

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only 17 years? Heck, we're just finally facing the fact that we may have to replace my mother's Maytag.

That she got when she got married.

In 1967.

And that's because (probably) the timer is shot, and we can't get a replacement.

Sigh.

http://www.midwesttimer.com/index.html

I know nothing about this company but it would be worth a shot to fix your ma's Maytag, assuming the part is NLA

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Sadly, the Maytag has a model M300 timer, the production line of which was closed and cleared out by midwest timer in 2011 (According to Keith, the VP of Operations) 

Looks like I have to now find not one, but TWO new washing machines!

At least I know we got our money's worth with that Maytag! (Not that I'd buy a new one)

Thanks again to everyone for their help!

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