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Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer Motor Won't Run - please help

61 posts in this topic

Hi All,

Need help please on Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer that is 2yrs old.  Model#: WGD95HEXW0

 

Symptom: Start button pressed, hear normal click from (motor relay?) but nothing happens.  In service diagnostics mode, when I hit Start button to run, nothing happens but "95" LED indicator showing up, no motor running. 

 

Trialed so far:

  1. Purchased and replaced CCU board per manual suggestion.  Ran mutimeter thru suggested points and it recommended that I replace the CCU board. :-(
  2. Purchased and replaced main motor, it did not work. :-(
  3. Hire local appliance technician, great guy BTW, and checked all the wires for continuity and wires and connectors look ok.
  4. Replaced thermal fuse, checked thermoster, checked moisture sensor bar per manual and it seems to work fine 

I'm wondering if new CCU board I had purchased is defective?  When I run mutimeter thru select points on the CCU board, it reads 2ohms, and manual suggests between 1 - 6 ohms, then replace the CCU. 

 

Otherwise, about only thing that is left unchecked (I don't know how to) is the user control buttons on front, where there are 2 circuit boards.  But I doubt it's the control buttons, as all buttons are functioning correctly under service mode.

 

Any suggestions or assistance will be greatly appreciated!!!  My wife is going crazy without a dryer with 2 kids :-)

 

Thanks in advance!!!


 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

you didnt mention the belt switch, which disables motor if belt breaks...i have had a few of these shit the bed, even if the belt has never been broken.

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Hey KurtiusInterupptus, RegUS_PatOff, appreciate the feedback, thanks.

 

Yes, I did check belt switch as well, it's working, it shows continuity on/off as belt switch is open/closed.  Thanks though.

 

I also confirmed that door switch is working ok, and moisture sensor is giving ok sound as I put finger over two contacts.  I did see electrical tape little worn near moisture sensor wires make contacts with main harness, the wires don't know any burn marks, I think just being close to lint collector shoot.  So I don't think that's it.  I also looked at all main harness for any sign of wear and tear, no sign, looks good. 

 

This issue is nearly 3weeks old, really bugging me and blowing a hole in my small wallet :-(

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while someone presses the Start Button:

Check for 120v AC at the Door Switch, between the Blue wire measured to chassis ground.
with the Door Switch in the "open" position (not pressed)

 

OR at the Belt Switch:

between each of the Blue wires measured to chassis ground

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I think Reg is on something...I had a crazy dryer recently that would not start. All voltage readings were normal and all other possible cause were eliminated. The only way I found it was checking for 120vac WHILE pushing the start button. Voltage dissapeared . I found a broken N in the receptacle box.failing under load.

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus

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Hi RegUS, Kurtius,

 

Below is what I found and included some more info if it helps.  Again, thanks for the assistance!!

 

Also in regards to CCU board:

  • The original CCU board = motor relay (black color) clicks when start button is pressed.  But new CCU board I had purchased, it has blue motor relay with same dimension does not click when I press the start button.  Wondering if the replacement CCU I had purchased has defective motor relay?  or not getting power, or maybe it's a solid state relay?
  • Wondering if I should try another CCU board to eliminate CCU board possibility?

 

Thanks again!!

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while someone presses the Start Button:

Check for 120v AC at the Door Switch, between the Blue wire measured to chassis ground.

with the Door Switch in the "open" position (not pressed)

 

OR at the Belt Switch:

between each of the Blue wires measured to chassis ground

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Hi RegUS,

 

I hope I'm doing it correctly, but below is what I get:

  • Check for 120v AC at the Door Switch, between the Blue wire measured to chassis ground with the Door Switch in the "open" position (not pressed) = I get 104v, and pressing the Start button or holding down start button does not do anything, it stays at 104v.
  • Belt switch between each of the blue wires to chassis ground = same thing, 104v on each blue wire to chassis, and pressing Start button or holding down start button does not do anything, it stays at 104v.

thanks!

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OK ...

Now, Door Switch "closed"

Someone presses Start Button:

voltage at Door Switch Blue to chassis (should be 0)

voltage at Belt Switch Blue to chassis (should be 120)

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Whenever I close the front door (pressing the door switch) the voltage goes to 0v.

Both at door switch (blue to ground), or at belt switch 2 blue wires each to ground, it goes to 0v.  I've tried pressing start button when door is closed at either of those points and stays 0v.

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OK same settings..

voltage at each side of white Thermals Fuse to chassis

(light blue wires)

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With door opened:  a) thermal fuse A to ground = 1.4v, when start button is pressed, no change, 1.4v,  B) thermal fuse B to ground = 1.4v, when start button pressed, no change.

With door closed:  a) thermal fuse A to ground = 0.4v, when start button pressed, no change, 0.4v,  B) thermal fuse B to ground = 0.4v, when start button pressed, no change.

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at the Thermal Fuse ?

Thermal-Fuse-3392519-00882790.jpg

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Yes, thermal fuse I get 1.4v or 0.4v with door opened or closed.

 

I also checked continuity of the thermal fuse and it's OK, it shows continuity there.

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If that's with the Start Button pressed,

than the Controller isn't sending the Motor voltage out..

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OK.  I had my wife press the start button when I was reading thermal fuse, and on second trial, I had her pressed and hold the start button while I was reading the thermal fuse, so I think I tried and got the reading right.

 

So new CCU board might do the trick?  Thanks again!!

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Sad to say, I just got a new CCU board and the problem didn't get resolved.  Dryer still won't run.

 

I wonder if certified Whirlpool repair person might know how to fix this.  I'm out of ideas and spent lot of money down the drain already.

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Sad to say, I just got a new CCU board and the problem didn't get resolved.  Dryer still won't run.

 

 

 

 

No worries-- if you bought the control board from RepairClinic you can return it for a refund. 

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That's a nice feature for repair clinic.

Any idea on where to go from here on fixing? wonder if whirlpool tech can make this work... But i know they would cost arm and a leg

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i just re-read all the posts..2 things. 104vac is the highest voltage reading you got? what does it read at the receptacle?

might wanna bring back the "nice guy" local tech and have him work on it some more,,,i assume you paid him...why couldnt he fix it? he should try again , FOC...(i would)

we have to be missing something...

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus

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Appreciate reviewing my issue again KurtiusInterupptus, I definitely need all the help I could get, thanks.

 

When I check voltage from wall to the dryer connection, I get 122v. I had moved this dryer to diff location and plugged it in to eliminate possible outlet issue.  It is a gas dryer as a reminder.

 

The appliance guy was nice enough to waive the 2nd visit costs, very nice gesture.  But I think 3rd visit may be a stretch.  And I think he sort of ran out of ideas after he and I checked all the harness points.  He's suggestion was new CCU.

 

Few questions:

  1. When this issue first occurred with the original CCU board, it shows Sensor light blinking and WET light on.  The newer CCU board I had purchased don't show this error though.  I had done moisture sensor test, and when I put my finger across two bars, I get beeping sound, which manual says it's OK.  I did notice some heat wear on electrical wire near the plug on this moisture sensor connector with (blue resistors?  see attached link).  I'm wondering if this is culprit?  I did check wires and they do not show any burn marks or wear, only the electrical tape that was near the plug... but I think it's due to it being near the lint collector duct.  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Wire-Harness/W10298258/1875698?modelNumber=WGD95HEXW0 .  Also, I am trying to start the dryer in timed mode, so I don't think moisture sensor would cause it to not spin the motor, not sure.
  2. When Whirlpool certified technicians come for service, do they have computers to help connect to diagnose the failure?  If so then I would have more confidence taking that route.  But if they simply show up with multimeter and technical guide, I don't have faith.  But then again, I've never dealt with certified technicians in the past.

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I must say, i believe you have been pretty thorough...not sure if the machine has builtin computer diagnostics or a way to connect. i am an authorized wp servicer and dont have these things .

with any of the boards ,are you able to enter the auto test or diagnostic mode?

nevermind...i see it in an earlier post...interface is operating normally, allows entry to test mode...

how many controls does this make now? 3? and only the first and original one will "click" when you press start?

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus

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Ok, cool, glad to know I'm getting help form WP servicer :-) 

 

Yes, so there are 3 boards in my possession: (both 2 new boards were shipped in Whirlpool Certified Parts box and they have WP silkscreen on the board).

  1. Original CCU board, it has black motor relay box on it.  When I press start button and hold for second or two, there is a distinct "click" on relay, but obviously nothing happens then.
  2. I purchased a new CCU board.  It has blue motor relay box, and there is No click sound when I press the start button.  I was then skeptical that this CCU board was lemon.
  3. 3rd CU board arrived yesterday, it has blue motor relay box also, and there is No click sound when I press the start button.   Blue relay box looks to be identical in size from black one, but is it a solid state relay?  is that why it's not making the noise?  I read in google that solid state relays get hot and it typically has heatsink on it, but this blue motor relay box is enclosed plastic, hard to believe it would house a heatsink inside.

Reason I originally thought was CCU was based on below info on tech manual:  mine read 2ohms, with no open circuit.

5. Motor Circuit Check - Access the CCU and measure the resistance across P8-4 and P9-1.

 If resistance across P8-4 and P9-1 is in the range of 1 to 6 Ω, the motor circuit is acceptable. Replace the CCU.

 Otherwise, continue to step 6.

 

This may be a dumb question, but does dryer have to be connected to gas line to allow motor to start?  I do not have gas line hooked up since I unplugged to work on the dryer.  Not sure if there are any sensors that would prevent dryer to turn motor.  I doubt it, but I probably should ask anyway.

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... Any idea on where to go from here on fixing?

re-check the above tests

 

 

 

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