Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Dumbstruck by the new computer-controlled appliances? Let the Samurai enlighten you…

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
tsxchef

Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer Motor Won't Run - please help

61 posts in this topic

doing the same test, what do the new board(s) read? and no, doesnt need to be on gas for the motor to run...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Also, I know I'm asking a ton, but here is the link to the technical manual (it might be faster to download to your desktop then view) : http://www.pwslaundry.com/files/docs/maytag-whirlpool/Tech-Sheet-W10306459-Rev-B.pdf

 

Page 25 on this document has electrical diagram.  If you can let me know which points I need to check again with my multimeter, I can do my best.  Thanks!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hi Regus...what is he reading on this test? thru the relay contact or the motor windings?

plus, it already has a new motor...this is a good one.

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where did you get these "new" CCU Boards from ?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, here is probably where I disappoint you guys.  I had purchased the CCU from PartSelect.  But truthfully this was Before I found out that RepairClinic accepts returns, I had no idea, and even the appliance guy who showed up told me I should get parts from RepairClinic afterwards.  For the 3rd CCU board, I had called PartSelect and told them that I believe I had received a defective CCU, and they sent me a replacement unit.

 

New Motor, however, I had purchased from RepairClinic, knowing it may or may not fix my problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

start over with the voltage tests I posted

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

reviewed the link to the service manual you provided...im not sure how it can be anything but a ccu issue...ReGus??

that test is the entire motor circuit...the thermal fuse only locks out heat..

reaching for straws here... have you done live voltage checks right at the ccu?

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I may have missed it, but did you check 120v at p9-2 to neutral? If you have a bad connector or loose wire you may be dropping the other 16v.

Edited by suampman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes suampman thats what i said....but its p9-1...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am talking about the input to the board. p9-1 is the output to the motor. wrong input to the board wrong output from the board.

Edited by suampman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi RegUS,

Ok, no problem.  Here are the measurements again I just read with the latest CCU (3rd board):

 

  • Start button pressed: Door OPENED
    • Check for 120v AC at the Door Switch, between the Blue wire measured to chassis ground = it reads 104.4v
    • At Belt switch = 104.6v
  • Start button pressed: Door CLOSED
    • Door switch = 0v
    • At Belt switch = 0v

 

Door OPENED Voltage at each side of white Thermal fuse to chassis:

  • One end to chassis ground = 1.3v,   pressing start did not change this value
  • Other end to chassis ground = 1.3v,  pressing start did not change this value

 

Door CLOSED Voltage at each side of white Thermal fuse to chassis:

  • One end to chassis ground = 0.4v,  pressing start did not change this value
  • Other end to chassis ground = 0.4v,  pressing start did not change this value

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just checked.

 

P9-2 to neutral wire (white wire connected from outlet to dryer) = 124.3v

P9-1 to neutral wire = 104.4v

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and P9-1 (LT Blue Motor) wire to belt switch reads 0v.  So I guess I'm not getting the voltage to the motor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

CCU (3rd board):

    Start button pressed: Door OPENED

        At Belt switch = 104.6v

    Start button pressed: Door CLOSED

        At Belt switch = 0v

doesn't make sense...

at Belt Switch

Start Button Pressed

 

Door Open

Door Closed

voltage at each Terminal to chassis: ?

 

Voltages at Thermal Fuse doesn't matter (for Motor) with Gas Dryer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I measured Belt Switch blue wire + chassis with door opened = it's reading 104.6v  (pressing start button did not have any impact to 104.6v, stayed same).

 

I measured Thermal fuse also based on your prior post, maybe I misunderstood it.

 

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Take the belt off the motor to open the belt switch. Test for 120v to ground at p9-1 when you push the start button. No 120v +- 10percent, then you have a bad board or bad connections. 104.6v aint startin your motor.

Edited by suampman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

at Belt Switch

Start Button Pressed

 

Door Open

Door Closed

voltage at each Terminal to chassis: ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At Belt Switch, Start Button Pressed:

 

Door open = 104.5v one blue wire to chassis , and 104.5v on another blue wire to chassis

 

Door closed = 0v one blue wire to chassis, and 0v on another blue wire to chassis

 

I tried 2 different CCU and got same results.

 

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jump the motor start relay, does the motor run? See motor circuit diagrams p9-2 to p9-1.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

<<<With door opened:  a) thermal fuse A to ground = 1.4v, when start button is pressed, no change, 1.4v,  B) thermal fuse B to ground = 1.4v, when start button pressed, no change.

With door closed:  a) thermal fuse A to ground = 0.4v, when start button pressed, no change, 0.4v,  B) thermal fuse B to ground = 0.4v, when start button pressed, no change.>>>

 

**********

 

Try bypassing the THERMAL LIMITER---by removing both wires and connecting them together. Wrap with electrical tape and test dryer.

 

I've had 2 or 3 Thermal Limiters that appeared to be "good" with a test meter---but were in fact faulty under an electrical load.

A long shot---but worth checking...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Try bypassing the THERMAL LIMITER---

 

Thermal Fuse not used in Motor circuit on Gas Dryer..

although one test in the Motor tech sheets mentions to test it.

Threw me off course in my previous posts.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm with jjsurfer...jump the L1 (P9-2) to the motor output (P9-1)...this should start the motor , if all is OK with the neutral side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

John, that is a great point though....just had one yesterday, thermal fuse ohm out OK, but failed underload ....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites