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Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer Motor Won't Run - please help


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60 replies to this topic

#21 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 07:26 PM

i just re-read all the posts..2 things. 104vac is the highest voltage reading you got? what does it read at the receptacle?
might wanna bring back the "nice guy" local tech and have him work on it some more,,,i assume you paid him...why couldnt he fix it? he should try again , FOC...(i would)

we have to be missing something...

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus, 19 September 2013 - 07:28 PM.

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#22 tsxchef

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 08:32 PM

Appreciate reviewing my issue again KurtiusInterupptus, I definitely need all the help I could get, thanks.

 

When I check voltage from wall to the dryer connection, I get 122v. I had moved this dryer to diff location and plugged it in to eliminate possible outlet issue.  It is a gas dryer as a reminder.

 

The appliance guy was nice enough to waive the 2nd visit costs, very nice gesture.  But I think 3rd visit may be a stretch.  And I think he sort of ran out of ideas after he and I checked all the harness points.  He's suggestion was new CCU.

 

Few questions:

  1. When this issue first occurred with the original CCU board, it shows Sensor light blinking and WET light on.  The newer CCU board I had purchased don't show this error though.  I had done moisture sensor test, and when I put my finger across two bars, I get beeping sound, which manual says it's OK.  I did notice some heat wear on electrical wire near the plug on this moisture sensor connector with (blue resistors?  see attached link).  I'm wondering if this is culprit?  I did check wires and they do not show any burn marks or wear, only the electrical tape that was near the plug... but I think it's due to it being near the lint collector duct.  http://www.repaircli...mber=WGD95HEXW0 .  Also, I am trying to start the dryer in timed mode, so I don't think moisture sensor would cause it to not spin the motor, not sure.
  2. When Whirlpool certified technicians come for service, do they have computers to help connect to diagnose the failure?  If so then I would have more confidence taking that route.  But if they simply show up with multimeter and technical guide, I don't have faith.  But then again, I've never dealt with certified technicians in the past.


#23 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 08:37 PM

I must say, i believe you have been pretty thorough...not sure if the machine has builtin computer diagnostics or a way to connect. i am an authorized wp servicer and dont have these things .
with any of the boards ,are you able to enter the auto test or diagnostic mode?

nevermind...i see it in an earlier post...interface is operating normally, allows entry to test mode...

how many controls does this make now? 3? and only the first and original one will "click" when you press start?

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus, 19 September 2013 - 08:41 PM.

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#24 tsxchef

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:11 PM

Ok, cool, glad to know I'm getting help form WP servicer :-) 

 

Yes, so there are 3 boards in my possession: (both 2 new boards were shipped in Whirlpool Certified Parts box and they have WP silkscreen on the board).

  1. Original CCU board, it has black motor relay box on it.  When I press start button and hold for second or two, there is a distinct "click" on relay, but obviously nothing happens then.
  2. I purchased a new CCU board.  It has blue motor relay box, and there is No click sound when I press the start button.  I was then skeptical that this CCU board was lemon.
  3. 3rd CU board arrived yesterday, it has blue motor relay box also, and there is No click sound when I press the start button.   Blue relay box looks to be identical in size from black one, but is it a solid state relay?  is that why it's not making the noise?  I read in google that solid state relays get hot and it typically has heatsink on it, but this blue motor relay box is enclosed plastic, hard to believe it would house a heatsink inside.

Reason I originally thought was CCU was based on below info on tech manual:  mine read 2ohms, with no open circuit.

5. Motor Circuit Check - Access the CCU and measure the resistance across P8-4 and P9-1.

 If resistance across P8-4 and P9-1 is in the range of 1 to 6 Ω, the motor circuit is acceptable. Replace the CCU.

 Otherwise, continue to step 6.

 

This may be a dumb question, but does dryer have to be connected to gas line to allow motor to start?  I do not have gas line hooked up since I unplugged to work on the dryer.  Not sure if there are any sensors that would prevent dryer to turn motor.  I doubt it, but I probably should ask anyway.



#25 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:18 PM

... Any idea on where to go from here on fixing?

re-check the above tests

 

 

 


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#26 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:18 PM

doing the same test, what do the new board(s) read? and no, doesnt need to be on gas for the motor to run...
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#27 tsxchef

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:19 PM

Also, I know I'm asking a ton, but here is the link to the technical manual (it might be faster to download to your desktop then view) : http://www.pwslaundr...06459-Rev-B.pdf

 

Page 25 on this document has electrical diagram.  If you can let me know which points I need to check again with my multimeter, I can do my best.  Thanks!!



#28 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:21 PM

hi Regus...what is he reading on this test? thru the relay contact or the motor windings?

plus, it already has a new motor...this is a good one.

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus, 19 September 2013 - 09:22 PM.

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#29 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:22 PM

Where did you get these "new" CCU Boards from ?

 


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#30 tsxchef

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:30 PM

Well, here is probably where I disappoint you guys.  I had purchased the CCU from PartSelect.  But truthfully this was Before I found out that RepairClinic accepts returns, I had no idea, and even the appliance guy who showed up told me I should get parts from RepairClinic afterwards.  For the 3rd CCU board, I had called PartSelect and told them that I believe I had received a defective CCU, and they sent me a replacement unit.

 

New Motor, however, I had purchased from RepairClinic, knowing it may or may not fix my problem.



#31 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:33 PM

start over with the voltage tests I posted

 


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#32 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:34 PM

reviewed the link to the service manual you provided...im not sure how it can be anything but a ccu issue...ReGus??

that test is the entire motor circuit...the thermal fuse only locks out heat..
reaching for straws here... have you done live voltage checks right at the ccu?

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus, 19 September 2013 - 09:41 PM.

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#33 suampman

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:39 PM

I may have missed it, but did you check 120v at p9-2 to neutral? If you have a bad connector or loose wire you may be dropping the other 16v.


Edited by suampman, 19 September 2013 - 09:52 PM.


#34 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:44 PM

yes suampman thats what i said....but its p9-1...
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#35 suampman

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:54 PM

I am talking about the input to the board. p9-1 is the output to the motor. wrong input to the board wrong output from the board.


Edited by suampman, 19 September 2013 - 09:59 PM.


#36 tsxchef

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:54 PM

Hi RegUS,

Ok, no problem.  Here are the measurements again I just read with the latest CCU (3rd board):

 

  • Start button pressed: Door OPENED
    • Check for 120v AC at the Door Switch, between the Blue wire measured to chassis ground = it reads 104.4v
    • At Belt switch = 104.6v
  • Start button pressed: Door CLOSED
    • Door switch = 0v
    • At Belt switch = 0v

 

Door OPENED Voltage at each side of white Thermal fuse to chassis:

  • One end to chassis ground = 1.3v,   pressing start did not change this value
  • Other end to chassis ground = 1.3v,  pressing start did not change this value

 

Door CLOSED Voltage at each side of white Thermal fuse to chassis:

  • One end to chassis ground = 0.4v,  pressing start did not change this value
  • Other end to chassis ground = 0.4v,  pressing start did not change this value


#37 tsxchef

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 10:00 PM

I just checked.

 

P9-2 to neutral wire (white wire connected from outlet to dryer) = 124.3v

P9-1 to neutral wire = 104.4v



#38 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 10:05 PM

Hmm

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus, 19 September 2013 - 10:29 PM.

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#39 tsxchef

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 10:05 PM

and P9-1 (LT Blue Motor) wire to belt switch reads 0v.  So I guess I'm not getting the voltage to the motor?



#40 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 10:25 PM

CCU (3rd board):

    Start button pressed: Door OPENED
        At Belt switch = 104.6v

    Start button pressed: Door CLOSED
        At Belt switch = 0v

doesn't make sense...
at Belt Switch
Start Button Pressed
 
Door Open
Door Closed
voltage at each Terminal to chassis: ?
 
Voltages at Thermal Fuse doesn't matter (for Motor) with Gas Dryer


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