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Whirlpool Duet Gas Dryer Motor Won't Run - please help


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60 replies to this topic

#41 tsxchef

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 10:38 PM

I measured Belt Switch blue wire + chassis with door opened = it's reading 104.6v  (pressing start button did not have any impact to 104.6v, stayed same).

 

I measured Thermal fuse also based on your prior post, maybe I misunderstood it.

 

Thanks.



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#42 suampman

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 10:39 PM

 Take the belt off the motor to open the belt switch. Test for 120v to ground at p9-1 when you push the start button. No 120v +- 10percent, then you have a bad board or bad connections. 104.6v aint startin your motor.


Edited by suampman, 19 September 2013 - 10:40 PM.


#43 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 11:01 PM

at Belt Switch
Start Button Pressed
 
Door Open
Door Closed
voltage at each Terminal to chassis: ?


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#44 tsxchef

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 11:18 PM

At Belt Switch, Start Button Pressed:

 

Door open = 104.5v one blue wire to chassis , and 104.5v on another blue wire to chassis

 

Door closed = 0v one blue wire to chassis, and 0v on another blue wire to chassis

 

I tried 2 different CCU and got same results.

 

Thanks.



#45 JJ Surfer

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 01:40 AM

Jump the motor start relay, does the motor run? See motor circuit diagrams p9-2 to p9-1.

#46 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 03:51 AM

http://appliantology...dryer-wgd95hex/

Whirlpool
27" GAS DRYER

WGD95HEXW0 (White)
WGD95HEXR0 (Red)
WGD95HEXL0 (Silver)

Repair Part List - W10341812
Tech Sheet - W10306459


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#47 john63

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 09:40 AM

<<<With door opened:  a) thermal fuse A to ground = 1.4v, when start button is pressed, no change, 1.4v,  B) thermal fuse B to ground = 1.4v, when start button pressed, no change.

With door closed:  a) thermal fuse A to ground = 0.4v, when start button pressed, no change, 0.4v,  B) thermal fuse B to ground = 0.4v, when start button pressed, no change.>>>

 

**********

 

Try bypassing the THERMAL LIMITER---by removing both wires and connecting them together. Wrap with electrical tape and test dryer.

 

I've had 2 or 3 Thermal Limiters that appeared to be "good" with a test meter---but were in fact faulty under an electrical load.

A long shot---but worth checking...


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#48 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 09:46 AM

Try bypassing the THERMAL LIMITER---

 

Thermal Fuse not used in Motor circuit on Gas Dryer..

although one test in the Motor tech sheets mentions to test it.

Threw me off course in my previous posts.
 


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#49 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 09:52 AM

I'm with jjsurfer...jump the L1 (P9-2) to the motor output (P9-1)...this should start the motor , if all is OK with the neutral side.
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#50 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:00 AM

John, that is a great point though....just had one yesterday, thermal fuse ohm out OK, but failed underload ....
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#51 john63

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:02 AM

<<<Thermal Fuse not used in Motor circuit on Gas Dryer..>>>

 

**********

 

Yes---I keep forgetting to remember that the electric dryer Thermal Limiter (on the blower housing) is in the motor circuit---but NOT the Gas model:)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#52 john63

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:21 AM

Kurtius

 

Question: Is this correct?

 

The Thermal Limiter on the blower housing (circuitry) is the same on both DOYT (Dryer of Yesterday Today) and DOTT (Dryer of Tomorrow Today) dryers:)

 

GAS MODELS: Failed Thermal Limiter---motor runs but no heat

 

ELECTRIC MODELS: Failed Thermal Limiter---motor does NOT run

 

Thanks:)


Edited by john63, 20 September 2013 - 10:26 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#53 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:27 AM

Correct-a-mundo...!
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#54 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 12:29 PM

Tsxchef? Where did ya go? The suspense is killing me...dying to know if you got that motor to run by jumping P9-1 to P9-2. Please dont give up...
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#55 tsxchef

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 09:57 PM

Hey KurtiusInterupptus, appreciate the follow up :-)   Haven't had opportunity on Friday, but was able to do some trials today.  Some additional info, but no root-cause for sure.

 

  • P9-1 to P9-2 jump = motor runs.  New replacement motor ran first, then I switched to my original one and it also runs, so it's not the motor for sure.
  • I checked various points again with multimeter with door opened, closed, to belt-switch, etc.  It pretty much reads everything the same as before.
  • Observation: my original CCU has motor relay that is traditional, where I can hear the click after start button is pressed.  2 newer CCU have blue housing, PN: SLA-S-112DMJ-F-30, which I believe is solid state relay, so it makes sense why it's not making same click noise.  Reason why I'm bringing this up is because I believe the issue is in the motor relay; my old one may not be working correctly even though it is making the sound, and newer ones may not be working for different reason(incompatibility?).  It's hard to be sure without looking at CCU diagram, but everything else appears to be functioning correctly.  Perhaps newer CCU don't work with my user input control boards?  Not sure.  When I check P9-1 with start button pressed, it stays at 0v, which doesn't make sense.  I would expect some kind of load.
  • Observation2: the original CCU board and newer CCU boards have same silkscreen PN: W10179483 Rev A.  So I think the board is the same, only 2 difference that I could see are a) motor relay, B) 1 unused connection housing removed on newer for cost saving I suppose.  Date codes are different obviously; 2 newer boards having almost same date code.
  • Observation3: it's curious why at P9-1 or at belt-switch is giving 104v consistently, and why not 120v... and I do not know if 104v is by design and if it is enough to start the motor.  I am wondering if 104v is just a noise within CCU and line also, and not necessarily the actual load reading IF motor-relay was working correctly.

I'm pretty much down to CCU again, and maybe outside shot at user input control panel not working with newer CCU.  Everything else appears to be working OK; motor, harness, thermal fuse, thermistor, moisture sensor, door switch, and belt switch.  The question is, do I purchase a 4th board from repairclinic this time? (previous 2 were from partselect).  But I have strong belief that I will get almost the same board as the last two... I think it is the correct board, it's just not compatible perhaps with something.  I even thought about posting local craigslist ad to see if anyone has same WP Duet model nearby, then barrow CCU for an hour with $$ exchange... very long shot I'm sure :rolleyes: 



#56 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 10:02 PM

Hey cool...OK now we are getting somewhere..getting ready to hit the stage for my night job...talk to ya tomorrow....can't wait to hear some input from reg us with the new info..
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#57 john63

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 10:37 PM

<<<maybe outside shot at user input control panel not working with newer CCU.>>>

**********

That is a definite possibility.

I've had this *once* several years ago on a Whirlpool Dryer---replaced failed Central Control Unit (CCU) and the dryer did NOT respond to input (no start---but some LED activity on Control Panel).

There was a Service Bulletin about this (different model dryer)---which explained that the *revised* CCU basically "speaks Russian" and the original User Interface (UI)"speaks Chinese" (not compatible).

LG also had one like that---about 5 years ago...
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#58 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 03:18 AM

... P9-1 to P9-2 jump = motor runs
.. my original CCU has motor relay that is traditional, where I can hear the click after start button is pressed.

replace the Relay

 

OR
any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned for a refund (less shipping)
including electrical parts that have been installed
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1877285
Main-Control-Board-W10326372-01373257.jp


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#59 suampman

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 01:52 PM

If you call repair clinic with the pn off the original board, they may be able to tell if there was midsream change that was made.



#60 tsxchef

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 01:12 PM

ISSUE CLOSED, Dryer Finally Running.  FIX = replacement CCU.

 

Thank you all for your assistance with my dryer issue, this forum is an excellent source of knowledge, and those who assisted me I can't thank you enough.

 

As for the fix, I ordered the part from RepairClinic-- great service and I love knowing that buying from them through the affiliate links on this site helps support the wonderful work you guys do here.  And you just can't beat the one year return policy!  

 

LESSONS LEARNED:

1) Learned great deal about a dryer :-) 

2) Don't rule out possibility that new replacement part is working or compatible based on claim.

3) Buy it from Repair Clinic (it's the truth without sounding like a sales pitch), especially if you're do-it-yourself novice.  My motor return was smooth and extremely fast (refund processed same day from reciept).

4) Doesn't hurt to keep quarters around the house for these laundry emergencies.

 

BTW, I learned that ~104.4v I was getting from certain points were by design, not representative of actual load (which makes sense)  :-)

 

Cheers!  :-)






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