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bosch dishwasher shx46b05uc/14 just runs forever now

cycle wont end

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13 replies to this topic

#1 muellertr

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 05:06 PM

I am a DIY, but pretty handy, and have a fluke multimeter.  Here is the problem.

 

Dishwasher all of the sudden wont go through a complete cycle, it starts, runs and then keeps on running

 

from what i can tell, the drain system works fine, and my best guess at this point, is that the heater system is not working correctly, it ran for an hour or more and i opened the door and checked the temperature of the water in the basic and it was about 90 degress, thinking it should be around 150 from what i have read, 

 

I have found similar technician repair manuals online but i cant find one for this specific model, one would be a great help.

 

I ready that you can test the heater, some high limit device and whatever, and that maybe the heater should read about 11 ohms, and you can check the amperage that the dishwasher is pulling at the start of a cycle to see if the heater is pulling the right amount of amps, i took the thing apart, as far as the front cover, and even loosened the base to where it would pull away from the dishwasher a few inches and can see the heater, and access a set of wires that plug in on the side of it, but i dont know how specifically to check the heater ohms, i did have the fuse off, and tried all of the combinations i could think of with the multimeter leads but didnt get anything except when i thing i was touching possibly two different ground wires, and readings were between like 2 and 4 ohm.

 

I need to know very specifically how to check each part of the heater circut, like what wire or whatever to put the probes on, 

 

Also, i kinda figured out how to run the test program and it does the same thing, just runs forever, but supposedly there is a way to tell it to skip "one" of its tests, which i would like it to skip the heater test to see if all else goes well, even though that wont narrow down specifically what part is bad, it would be helpful.

 

Can someone somehow let me know which excact parts to test, and where to put the leads specifically to do the test, also a service manual for this exact model would be great.



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 06:46 PM

http://appliantology...raining-manual/

144 pages

c.2003

Bosch training manual written for Sears. Manual No. XXXX0903
Covers the following Bosch dishwasher models:

SHI4302/4306/66A05/6802/6805/6806
SHU3002/3006/3012/3016
SHU3026/3032/3035/3036
SHU33A02/06, 3302/3305/3306/3307
SHU3322/3326/3336, 4322/4326
SHU4002/4006/4016/4022/4026/4036
SHU43C02/05/06/07, 43E02/05/06/07
SHU4302/4304/4306/4312/4314/4316
SHU53A02/05/06, 53E02/05/06
SHU5302/5304/5305/5306/5307
SHU5312/5314/5315/5316/5317
SHU66C02/05/06/07, 66E02/05/06/07
SHU6802/6805/6806
SHU8802/8805/8806/8812/8815/8816
SHU9902/9905/9906
SHU9912/9915/9916/9922/9925/9926
SHU9952/9955/9956
SHV4303/46C03/4803/66A03/6803/99A03
SHX33A02/05/06, 43E02/05/06
SHX46A02/05/06/07, 46B02/05/06/07
SHX56B02/05/06, 99B05/06
SHY56A02/05/06, 66C02/05/06, 99A02/05/06


 

http://appliantology...-edition-rev-7/

58 pages

The Official Bosch Dishwasher Training & Repair Manual
2nd Edition/Revision 7 (10/29/07)

This is it: the Official Bosch dishwasher manual. This is the only Bosch-branded dishwasher manual that Bosch puts out. I've also posted a Sears-branded manual that contains practically the same information.

This manual covers all the standard (non-Ascenta) models. This is also the manual that Bosch calls out for the seldom-seen and treacherous SHE44C models, though this model is not specifically mentioned in the manual; regardless, Bosch does not provide a separate manual for the SHE44C models.

SHI4302/4306/66A05/6802/6805/6806
SHU3002/3006/3012/3016
SHU3026/3032/3035/3036
SHU33A02/06, 3302/3305/3306/3307
SHU3322/3326/3336, 4322/4326
SHU4002/4006/4016/4022/4026/4036
SHU43C02/05/06/07, 43E02/05/06/07
SHU4302/4304/4306/4312/4314/4316
SHU53A02/05/06, 53E02/05/06
SHU5302/5304/5305/5306/5307
SHU5312/5314/5315/5316/5317
SHU66C02/05/06/07, 66E02/05/06/07
SHU6802/6805/6806
SHU8802/8805/8806/8812/8815/8816
SHU9902/9905/9906
SHU9912/9915/9916/9922/9925/9926
SHU9952/9955/9956
SHV4303/46C03/4803/66A03/6803/99A03
SHX33A02/05/06, 43E02/05/06
SHX46A02/05/06/07, 46B02/05/06/07
SHX56B02/05/06, 99B05/06
SHY56A02/05/06, 66C02/05/06, 99A02/05/06


Also, more obscure models:
SHE44C / SHE46C / SHE47C / SHE56C / SHU43C / SHX46A / SHX46L / SHX43E SHV46C / SHE43F / SHE43M / SHX43M / SHE45M / SHV45M / SHX45M / SHE55M


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#3 jumptrout

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 06:53 PM

What is your serial number?



#4 muellertr

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 09:27 PM

ok, serial number is

FD8310 00472

i left the space in there, as that is how it is printed, 

 

thank you for the link to the manuals, what great fast help, no hopefully with the serial number, someone can help me test this thing out



#5 muellertr

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 09:57 PM

I have looked at the manual you linked above, and it does appear to the the correct one, but it does not give me specifics or pictures of exactly what wires to test for:

1. incoming amperage, 11amps, says to test black wire, does it mean the black hot wire from my romex that supplies power, and if so, can i just undo the wire nut holding it to the black lead for the dishwasher in the j box, and put my multimeter leads on each of these two wires, seems that might work but not sure how i could hold leads on there to both wires, keeping a good connection and hitting buttons on the dishwasher at same time, all the while not getting shocked, lol...there must be a simpler or smarter way that i am not aware of.

2. then it says to measure voltage at control module, looking for either 0 vac or 120 vac, where do i put my test leads for this test

3. now it says measure resistance at heater terminals, there are several wires on the heater module, of different colors and such, which ones, and do i have to disconnect the wires, or leave them on, does the dishwash have to be on or off for this test, or does it matter?  would be great to have a picture of the heater module, showing the connectors, and someone being able to draw an arrow and say this one and this one.

4. then it says check hi-limit, flow switch and circulation pump

 

I can do all this but it doesnt go into detain about how, i know the hi-limit switch is on top of the heater, and the heater would have to be removed to get to it, there is a picture of the NTC "whatever that means", that shows which side is the hi-limit, so i think i could test the ohms on that as there appear to be only 2 prongs on the hi-limit side, so this one i may know how to do on my own

 

I simply think i need pictures, and or examples on how to do these tests, i can access parts if need be, apparently the heater itself can be tested from the side possibly without completely removing the base, i would prefer that approach first for a main heater test, and if by chance it tests good, then i can drop the base and heater assembly to test the other stuff that i would need to get access to.



#6 olyteddy

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 10:28 PM

Most of my dishwashers have a power cord and are plugged into the wall so I just use one of these: http://www.repaircli...r/P4400/1012487



#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 10:47 PM

... I have seen a clamp on meter at Harbor Freight for $12. Is it worth buying? item#96308

looks good to me
image_21045.jpg

20% OFF coupon
also good on sale items

good till 09/30/2013

20off912-aff17547.jpg


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#8 muellertr

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 12:19 AM

mine is hardwired, and i dont have clamp test leads, but that gives me some ideas, how about how to test the other components, specifically?  i would like to tear into this thing today/tomorrow, but as i said, the repair manual is not specific enough for me to know what prongs of everything to test



#9 muellertr

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 11:05 AM

pictueres:

http://puu.sh/4sRQm    middle and right side picture

4sRQm

 

 

http://puu.sh/4sRPp     left side picture

4sRPp

 

i tried to post these directly in this post and couldnt figure it out, but this should work just fine

 

ok, here are pictures of the end of the heating element, it appears that the left and right side connections would be to the end of the actual heating element that is inside the housing, and the center connections im not sure, probably have to do with turning it on and off, as the center has a black switch piece mounted in it, 

 

so for the wires, here goes, the left side has a red wire to the very center, probably a direct connection to the heating probe's left side, and there are two connections for green wires, "presumably grounds", around the outside edge that just connect to a metal ring that kind of sits around that center connection, the two green wire spots are connected to each other as i did a continuity check on those

 

now in the center there are two pink wires that coming into that switch in the middle, they are hooked together, as i did a continuity check on that also, and out of the top of that switch is a red wire, which goes over to the right side of the heating element connection.

 

right side, there is just one red wire, which connects dead center, assuming this is the right side of the heating element direct connection.

 

.....so i did an ohm test from left side element to right side element, both the red wires on the left and right, and there is no flow, making the meter read basically like you havent touched anything at all, so no path is found between the two whatsoever.  check all other combinations of ohm tests and nothing connected unless you did both grounds, then you get like 2 ohms, and both pinks, same thing, but they have a direct connection to each other anyway, so i expect to get a reading there, 

 

so is the correct test, left side of the element"red wire" to right side of the element"red wire" if so, no current is finding its way through at all, 

 

these test are all being done without the dishwasher being hooked up to electric at all


Edited by RegUS_PatOff, 16 September 2013 - 12:46 PM.


#10 jumptrout

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 02:26 PM

Remove the front panel below the control panel.

This gives access to the control board wires.

With the dishwasher hooked up and running,use a insulated jumper between the large Gray/Black wire and the Red wire in the center of  the control board.

Have your clamp om amp meter attached around the Red wire.

If you read approximately 9.5 amps,the heater circuit is good and the control board is bad.

If you do not read this amp draw a heater circuit component is bad.



#11 muellertr

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 03:32 PM

so to clarify, all my controls are on the top edge of door, but i can remove the front of the door and access the control board without a problem.

 

so take a piece of wire, that has a jacket on it, and connect between the large Gray/Black wire and the Red wire in the center of  the control board.

then use a clamp on amp meter around that same red wire, to check for amperage, clamp meaning the kind that doesnt penetrate the wires, just simply loops around it? i dont have one, but could grab one at lowes.

 

"""and if you dont mind me asking, just so that i know it's safe, and not going to damage my washer, what wires is the jumper connecting, and why/what for? thanks""""


from my pictures above, can anyone tell me where to specifically check the ohms on the heater, thanks


Edited by muellertr, 16 September 2013 - 03:31 PM.


#12 jumptrout

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 04:16 PM

Sensei Reg gave you a good deal on a meter to read amps.

Once the washer is full of water and running,use the jumper between Gray?Black wire and the Red wire terminals at the control board.

This will send power to the heater circuit.

If the heater components are good you will read approximately 9,5 amps.



#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 06:28 PM

clamp meter could be used on the (single) incoming power wire

With Heater ON = over 10 Amps

Heater OFF = about 2 Amps


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every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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#14 muellertr

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 11:02 PM

which wires do i check for the heater ohm test, and the other heater circuit parts, does anyone know how to do this, i have pictures of the heater wires above with descriptions






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