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OlaS

KitchenAid Built-In Side By Side KSSS48QDW04 - Freezer is not going to 0F

13 posts in this topic

Hello Samurai and dear experts,

 

Here is an interesting problem with my 20 years old (very expensive to replace) Side by Side KitchenAid Refrigerator.

 

The freezer section thermostat set to the highest setting, but the Freezer does not go below 10-5F and during the defrost cycle it goes up to 20-25F.

 

The compressor is running perfectly, and not all the time, the fans (condenser and evaporator) are running nicely too. No weird noises, or signs of wearing out.

 

Condenser coils are clean, and the evaporator coils frost pattern looks nice too. The Compressor is not running very hot, I can touch it without getting burned, the condenser coils are hot to touch but not burning.

 

Since there are no electronic temp control (old model), I use freezer/refrigerator thermometer and Icecream as indication whether I get good freezer temperature (around 0 F) or not.

 

Parts that were replaced/checked:

 

1) Overload/relay - it is PTC version (to fix non-starting compressor)

2) Run Capacitor - (just in case)

3) Thremistor in the refrigerator section/door gasket (fixed high temperature in the fridge)

4) Evaporator coils (picture attached)

5) Condensor coils - clean and hot (upleasant but not burning) to touch

6) Windings on the compressor (when replaced the Overload), read correct resistance as per spec)

7) Evaporator Fan - running

8) Defrost heater - works

 

I suspect that maybe my defrost cycle is he cause or the door seal. I have icicles grow on top of the freeer compartment where the door meets the freezer compartment - I have to clean the ice almost every day. The freezer door makes wierd click when I open and close it, but the "dollar" bill test didn't reveal any gaps between the gasket and the freezer compartment.

 

I am out of options - any ideas?

 

Ola

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

check to see if your ice dispenser door is sealing properly. Your model has the problematic whirlpool dispenser door design where the right side support for the dispenser door axle breaks or becomes loose.

Also it's possible Your freezer thermostat may be malfunctioning. Try bypassing it and see if the temps drop significantly.

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Has the sealed system been worked on?

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The frost (icicles} indicates air infiltration. This infiltration could cause higher condenser temps. and freezer temps. I would investigate this further.

Edited by suampman

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... The compressor is running perfectly, and not all the time

... evaporator coils frost pattern looks nice

... icicles grow on top of the freeer compartment where the door meets the freezer

1) the Cold Control may be bad inside the Freezer and controls the Compressor

2) may need to see pictures

3) may need to see pictures

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freezer door clicking would be cam on lower hinge broken.

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How cold is the freezer getting????...............What is the current draw on the compressor????

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Check the evaporator cover for proper sealing around the edges.  Also check the right side of the evaporator coil for ice buildup.  The area around the air return should be properly blocked off and sealed, allowing the returning air to be directed to the bottom of the evaporator.  There is a blocking kit available if needed but 1/4" weatherstripping will suffice.

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Thank you for your support dear experts here are my answers to all the queries:

check to see if your ice dispenser door is sealing properly. Your model has the problematic whirlpool dispenser door design where the right side support for the dispenser door axle breaks or becomes loose.

Also it's possible Your freezer thermostat may be malfunctioning. Try bypassing it and see if the temps drop significantly.

 

Checked the ice dispenser door - no issues, closes tight. The thermostat is very likely the problem, so I actually have a replacement thermostat that I am thinking of putting in to see if it makes any difference. Here is why it looks that the thermostat might be an issue - it turns the freezer off in the off position but no matter how I change the settings besides on and off the themperature stays the same.

 

 

Has the sealed system been worked on?

It looks like someone worked on the sealed system before I got the house, since there is a service valve installed by the compressor. However visually inspecting of the evaporator coils and other areas of the sealed does not show any signs of leaking or someting that looks not right. The Fridge is running for almost 9 months now since I moved and the situation is not getting worse - assuming that freon would have leaked already if this would be a leak. Sears rapair person made an assumption that whoever fixed the sealed system maybe had to deal with the clogged system rather than a leak but I could not confirm that assertion. The repair person confirmed that there are no leaks in the system

 

The frost (icicles} indicates air infiltration. This infiltration could cause higher condenser temps. and freezer temps. I would investigate this further.

 

I just found out that the door is clicking because one of the wheels that are on the hinges is broken. however this only causes the door not to close by itself, once I close it firmly then it seems to be a good seal, nevertheless the icicles still show up.

 

Picture is attached - the icicles are on both sides: door and the thremostat panel

 

post-86624-0-33859600-1380597332_thumb.j

 

1) the Cold Control may be bad inside the Freezer and controls the Compressor

2) may need to see pictures

3) may need to see pictures

1) how to confirm that the cold control is bad without doing too much electric testing?

2) picture of the evaporator coils:

post-86624-0-37872300-1380597279_thumb.j

 

3) the icicles pic is above

 

How cold is the freezer getting????...............What is the current draw on the compressor????

When I had the freeer empty of food and closed door for a night I got 0 F over 24 hour period that is the expected temperature, once I start to put the food back, even just a bottom rack the temperature starts to be around 10F and flactuate to 30F during the defrost cycle. Also it seems that the fridge stays in the defrost cycle too long, the coil is defrosted quickly but the compressor does not kick in, so the freezer quickly goes to 30F.

 

Check the evaporator cover for proper sealing around the edges.  Also check the right side of the evaporator coil for ice buildup.  The area around the air return should be properly blocked off and sealed, allowing the returning air to be directed to the bottom of the evaporator.  There is a blocking kit available if needed but 1/4" weatherstripping will suffice.

 

Not sure what do you mean by the sealing and air return - can you point out on the evaporator coil picture where I should look for the seals?

 

 

 

Edited by OlaS

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One more thing - is it possible that the defrost cycle goes for too long, in other words the evaporator coil defrosts within minutes, however the freexer stays in defrost mode longer and this is when the temperature gets higher. can this + some of the restrictions of the air flow cause the trouble?

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Good frost on evaporator and no ice buildup so air flow looks good.  Double check the foam block at the upper/right corner of evaporator for proper sealing, front and back.  The front should seal against the evaporator cover when cover is reinstalled.

 

Provided there's no warm air intrusion from the door gasket or ice door, and the evaporator fan motor is running at a sufficient speed, the moisture on the ceiling could be a result of the defrost thermostat keeping the heater on too long during defrost.

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Check to see how warm the ceiling is in the freezer section.........The condensation is probably on the ceiling of the freezer section.......With the compressor on top, it could be the insulation is degrading, ( 20 year old unit )  keeping the top section of the freezer a bit too warm............get yer paws on a Supco SL 300 logger...( or something similar )......Place it as close as possible to the ceiling and monitor the temps.......I do not know if taping it to the ceiling would work........ Being almost all of the other things are not panning out.................Let us think out of the box of  conventional wisdom...................

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That's pretty cool info CTG. Since there apparently is no air intrusion then there must be a heat source. That insulation issue sounds like a likely suspect.

Also check door switches or unscrew freezer light bulb and disconnect (not turn off but disconnect it from power) ice maker if one is present.

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