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Bosch Dishwasher

bosch dishwasher shu6800

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4 replies to this topic

#1 KCTBURY

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 04:43 PM

Working on a Bosch Dishwasher.

 

Model Number SHU6800

 

When you press the power on button the dishwasher starts to run with 13 min on the timer.

 

The Timer counts down and nothing happens except the circulation motor runs.

 

None of the buttons will work on the panel

 

The motor runs but the water is not being moved.

 

My first instinct is the circulation motor but why does it all ways start with 13 min? 

 

Doesn't drain or anything!



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#2 johntech

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 05:14 PM

Sounds like a bad control board. Try this

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be addedtogether, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

#3 Scottthewolf

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 07:51 PM

Please move to the Kitchen Appliances forum.
Scott Wolf

#4 KCTBURY

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 11:28 PM

I wash my clothes in the dishwasher :rocker:



#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 08:07 AM

Moved to the Kitchen forum. 







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