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LG WM2277HM - Bad Bearing?


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10 replies to this topic

#1 rdfloyd

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 06:40 PM

I bought a 2-3 year old LG WM2277HM front load washer about 1 year ago.  It's a decent washer, but rather unreliable.

 

My latest problem is a sound coming from the back of the drum.  I can only guess that the bearing is bad, but I've never heard a bearing make that sound before.  I recorded a video to try and help describe the issue (around 0:08 is the clearest audio): http://www.youtube.c...h?v=wTA_cj67OrM

 

The pulsing "plastic" noise is what I think the problem is.  When running at high speed during the spin cycle, I can hear it from across the house (40-50 yards), and can smell burning plastic.

 

I've gone through the service manual and done all of the related troubleshooting steps.  There is nothing caught between the drum and housing.  The only thing I haven't done is inspected stator and rotor assembly for any contact issues (friction causing the burning smell).

 

I've read online that if it is the bearing, the machine is as good as trash, since replacing it is not worth the cost of labor/parts.  Sears has a service contract for $300 that will cover the machine fully for one year.  Does anyone think that it's worth the extra investment?



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#2 john63

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 07:16 PM

What is the SERIAL NUMBER ?


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 rdfloyd

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 07:40 PM

What is the SERIAL NUMBER ?

 S/N: 503KW07267

 

http://i.imgur.com/WAoCIpc.jpg

 

 

In addition, for now I've found a cheap washer that I am getting tomorrow.  So reaching a quick solution isn't necessary, and I'm willing to take my time to fix the machine.

 

Thanks for the help!



#4 rdfloyd

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 07:56 PM

I'm not sure how to edit posts, but I forgot to mention an important detail.

 

A few days before the noise issue, I noticed that the washing machine was more prone to being out of balance, even though the unit was firmly touching all four corners of the tile floor.  A couple of times I had to stop it mid-spin and take out about half of the load (even though it wasn't overloaded to begin with).



#5 john63

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 08:00 PM

<<<S/N: 503KW07267>>>

**********

Built March 2005

Parts list coming shortly:)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#6 rdfloyd

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 08:07 PM

<<<S/N: 503KW07267>>>

**********

Built March 2005

Parts list coming shortly:)

 

Well that's significantly older than I was told.  Thank you very much for helping.  I can't express my gratitude enough!



#7 john63

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:10 PM

<<<The pulsing "plastic" noise is what I think the problem is. When running at high speed during the spin cycle, I can hear it from across the house (40-50 yards), and can smell burning plastic.>>>

**********

Usually a symptom of---a cracked/broken *tub support*---which is part of the stainless steel INNER DRUM.

If the washer is being used---in spite of the noise/racket---eventually the FRONT TUB COVER will be damaged beyond repair. In some cases---the DOOR GASKET will also be destroyed.
This will cause an odor of burning plastic and rubber.

Front load washer tub assemblies consist of:

1) An INNER DRUM

2) REAR TUB (half shell---which also has bearings)

3) FRONT TUB COVER

Parts needed:

1) INNER BEARING (4280FR4048L)

2) OUTER BEARING (4280FR4048E)

3) BEARING SEAL (4036ER2004A)

4) TUB O-RING (4036ER4001B)

5) INNER DRUM (3045ER1006E)

Possibly may need a new FRONT TUB COVER...

6) FRONT TUB COVER (3550ER0004F)


Other parts/components that *ought* to be replaced if doing this level of work...

1) HALL EFFECT SENSOR/Rotor Position Sensor (6501KW2002A)

2) MOTOR WIRE HARNESS (6877ER1016B)

3) DRAIN MOTOR (4681EA2001T)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 rdfloyd

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 12:13 AM

I'm fairly proficient when it comes to machinery.  However, should I let the professionals handle this one?  It sounds rather involved, since I assume I have to disassemble the entire drum assembly.  Is there a manual that explains the process in detail (with required tools, etc.)?

 

Right now, I'm thinking it's best that I go ahead and buy the Sears maintenance plan.  The parts alone will cost more than that, so it seems like a good deal to get the washer covered.  Thoughts?



#9 JJ Surfer

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 12:26 AM

Buy the maintenance

#10 john63

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 12:37 AM

It has to be *your* decision...

SEARS PLAN:

$300.00

Possible 2 to 4 weeks until completion-of-work

Plan *only* covers repair/replacement of failed components (no preventive actions)

Easiest course to take (NO WORK REQ'D)


DIY METHOD:

Lots of work req'd

Parts (from repair clinic) potential total of around $390

Did I mention *lots* of work ? :)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#11 sh2sh2

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 04:13 PM

the plan sears is selling you only covers repairs up to 500$,   parts and labor, that job will probably quote more then that with sears pricing






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