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DLG2102W Samsung Gas Dryer


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11 replies to this topic

#1 nbapeman

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 06:54 PM

This dryer will not ignite.  The igniter comes on and then goes out but the valves do not open and release the gas, therefore there is no ignition.  The gas valves have been replaced and the control board was also replaced.  There are only 2 components left and I would like a definitive way to determine the problem.  Any ideas.



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#2 john63

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 07:15 PM

This model number (DLG2102)---is an LG dryer...


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 nbapeman

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 02:36 PM

My humble appologies.  I had samsung on the brain.  It still has the same problem



#4 Scottthewolf

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 05:38 PM

Did you check the radiant sensor on the gas burner funnel? It should be closed (continuity) at room temperature and open when it senses heat from the ignitor.
Scott Wolf

#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 06:46 PM

Did you check the radiant sensor on the gas burner funnel? It should be closed (continuity) at room temperature and open when it senses heat from the ignitor.

 

 

Part number: AP4443773

Part number: AP4443773


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#6 nbapeman

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 07:52 AM

The igniter comes on and then goes out. My assumption is that the flame sensor sees the igniter and turns it off by opening the contacts.  What else would be turning off the igniter?



#7 nbapeman

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 08:48 PM

Dryer acts like it has a gas valve problem.  The igniter comes on then goes out but the gas valve does not release gas so it does not dry.  The gas valve was replaced (including the solenoids) and the control board.  It still has the same symptoms. I would ike a definitve way to determine the problem so I don't continue to just swap parts

Nbapeman



#8 KCTBURY

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 09:13 PM

I Have found foreign objects in in the gas lines causing this problem in LG dryers.

 

Take the gas valve assembly off while the gas is turned off and the unit unplugged. I then have someone turn the gas on for a short blast to make sure there is a good flow of gas to the gas valve.   

 

Or you can visually inspect it, 

 

Also check continuity of wires to valve, look for broken or burnt wires,



#9 john63

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 09:23 PM

<<<The gas valve was replaced (including the solenoids)>>>

 

**********

 

On an LG gas dryer---the Gas Valve Assy---is of a one-piece-design (gas valve & solenoids are a single component).

 

For example---on a Samsung dryer---it's possible to replace the Gas Valve---without replacing the Solenoids (and vice-versa).

 

In any event---if the Main Board and Gas Valve Assy have been replaced---and the Igniter glows & shuts-off without gas ignition---I'd start looking at the Gas Supply to dryer (valve turned on?)

 

It is very/very/very rare---but on at least 2 occasions I've had a gas shut-off valve (on the wall/ceiling etc) fail.

In other words---in the "on" position---the gas valve was still "off".

 

Next---would be to verify correct gas pressure to the dryer (owner's manual specifies correct pressure).

 

If those prove "good"---then it will be necessary to begin looking into the various components within the dryer itself...


Edited by john63, 25 September 2013 - 09:28 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 03:56 PM

The igniter comes on and then goes out. 

 

 

Classic symptom of bad valve coils  Part number: AP3094251

Part number: AP3094251

 

My assumption is that the flame sensor sees the igniter and turns it off by opening the contacts.  What else would be turning off the igniter?

 

 

Never assume; just learn:  http://fixitnow.com/...in-a-gas-dryer/

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#11 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 07:14 AM

 

Never assume;

 

Uhmmmm, you just did :rolleyes:

 

This is an LG, (I'm pretty sure the Samsungs use this same style valve), doesn't use the standard coils - bad coils you need to replace the complete valve

5221EL2002A http://www.repaircli...Number=DLG2102W

Gas-Valve-Assembly-5221EL2002A--01046321

 

Which the OP has already done, along with an new main control board!


Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 27 September 2013 - 07:16 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 08:17 AM

Uhmmmm, you just did :rolleyes:

 

 

No, I searched APP and that's what they pulled up for this model.  Error in their database.  

 

My comment about assuming was directed at his conjecture about about how the system works.  Hence the link posted to a more detailed explanation.

 

And can we please dispense with the smarmy "gotcha" comments?  


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