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Estate dryer EED4300TQ0


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21 replies to this topic

#1 Patricio

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 06:10 PM

Ya know,  I checked the terminal cord to 240 receptical  Had a loose connection there.  Got it where I have a steady 120 each leg & 240 across each terminal.   Followed with continuity checks at fuse & thermostat. Full song.   Continuity check at heat element, sings well on meter.    No continuity from element to housing.   Pulled element & inspected it looks fine.

 

Not having a tech, I tested for voltage drop at al fuses & therms.   0 volts across terminals & 120v from each terminal to ground.   Heater elements 120v to ground & 0 v across terminals.  Should I not have 240 across the heater elements with motor running.   Pulled terminals off heater element & I have 120v from each to ground, 0v across red element wires.  Trying to remember voltage from timer terminals to ground.   Anyway I suspect timer issue.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong in my thinking.   I still stumble in Elec 101.


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 06:25 PM

OK

set Dryer to run a no heat / Air Fluff cycle

Now should be 120v AC from each side of those devices to chassis / ground.


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#3 Patricio

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 08:14 PM

Yea did that too forgot to mention it.


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#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 09:08 PM

and there was 120v (to chassis / ground) at each side of the thermal devices .. ?

when in the no-heat / Air Fluff cycle ?

 

That may not make sense if you said, :"Pulled terminals off heater element & I have 120v from each to ground"

Could be a bad Timer with bad contacts that will still read 120v with no load.

 

In Normal Dry mode, measure voltage across Timer Black to Red

0v = good

240v = bad Timer

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=909732

Timer-8299781-00620165.jpg

 

 


 

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#5 Patricio

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 09:41 PM

When I pulled terminals off heater it was in a timed dry.   I tested terminals all hooked up when I had timer in air fluff.   Teach me more.


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#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 10:42 PM

In Normal Dry mode, measure voltage across Timer Black to Red
0v = good
240v = bad Timer
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=909732

Timer-8299781-00620165.jpg


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#7 Patricio

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 10:18 PM

This one really has me stumped.  Installed new timer & power cord. Unit heated fine while I was there.  Two days later I get callback does not heat again.

 

This is what I have:

  • L1 & L2 to neutral 120v...L1 to L2...240v
  • Slight voltage drop at terminal block when start switch pushed, Drum turns, motor runs.
  • voltage holds steady
  • All thermal devices have continuity, heater element has 12 ohms no short to chassis,
  • with power applied in heat cycle, R/W to R at element-ghost voltage, R/W to chassis  120v...R to chassis 120v
  • cycling thermostat R/W to chassis 120v   R to chassis 12v  Both violet to chassis  ghost voltage.  Violet to R or R/W 120v
  • thermal cutout: R/W to chassis 120v  R to chassis120v same reading in fluff cycle
  • Timer in high heat:  BK to R ghost voltage  R to neutral 120v, BK to neutral 120v   R or BK to L2  240v

What do I look for next?


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#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 07:44 AM

run the Dryer in a no-heat Air-Fluff cycle,

now measure some voltages at each of those devices to chassis / ground

Find a device that has 120v (to chassis) on one Terminal

and 0v (to chassis on the other Terminal

 


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#9 Patricio

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 12:11 PM

run the Dryer in a no-heat Air-Fluff cycle,

now measure some voltages at each of those devices to chassis / ground

Find a device that has 120v (to chassis) on one Terminal

and 0v (to chassis on the other Terminal

OK, I will do that this afternoon. 


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#10 Patricio

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 08:03 PM

Dryer timer set to Air Fluff, no heat.  Motor runs, drum turns.  Voltages are all 120v from each terminal to chassis.


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#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 09:07 PM

OK, that's possible, but would indicate a bad Timer ...

OK, same settings, measure the voltage at the Red Terminal of the Timer to chassis.

Should be 120v ... same connection as the Red Wire on the Thermal Cut-Off

 


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#12 Patricio

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 01:53 PM

According to my notes I had 120v at red timer to chassis ground.  


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#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 01:58 PM

OK same settings

on Timer

Red to Black should be 240v

 

And when you set the Timer to a heat cycle

Red to Black should be 0v

 

 


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#14 Patricio

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 09:19 PM

Fluff cycle...Ghost voltage red to black

Heat cycle...0v red to black

 

Reading the wiring diagram I suspect the motor switch at 2m & 1m connection is failing.   I show 120v at the red wire to the heater but I think under a load the connection is failing.    Am I on the right tract.   Dryer sits outside in the weather with a roof only for protection.


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#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 10:30 PM

could be ...

instead of using a volt meter..

try measuring the 120v with a load (lamp 40w bulb / lamp / plug cut off / etc)

L2 to Neutral

 

 


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#16 Patricio

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 11:18 PM

Connect the lamp at the terminal block or at the L2 heater terminal wire?


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#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 11:25 PM

L2 to Neutral

at the Terminal Block

and / or anywhere else you may need to check 120v with a load.

 


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#18 Patricio

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 11:31 PM

Thank you ... Again... Mr. RegUS_PatOff


Edited by Patricio, 20 September 2013 - 11:31 PM.

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#19 Patricio

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 09:21 PM

OK I took a shortcut,  Local supplier was able to get Friday afternoon At my cost of $60.  I installed that evening, dryer performs & no call back.  I had 240v between element terminals,  between Red & Black on timer in fluff cycle, & 0v between Red & Black timer wires in Heat cycle.   Best of all element heated, customer happy again.  Me satisfied & best of all customer is giving me praises. 

 

Thanks again RegUS_PatOff.


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#20 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 09:30 PM

what part ?

 


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