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Shinnbone

Fisher Paykel Dish Drawer F1 Problem

24 posts in this topic

Newbie here and sorry if I failed to find an appropriate FAQ answer to this, but the searching function was to no avail. In any event, my FP 603 Dishdrawer started with an F1 fault yesterday. I drained all of the water out from the drawer that I could see. However, I cannot clear the fault. I unplug and re-plug and press the Lock button and then press again after it beeps, but nothing. Am I doing something wrong or perhaps is the sensor PC board still moist enough to cause a fault? Am I simply SOL?

Thanks,

John

p.s. I got the F1 fault, I believe, when my wife loaded a pointy dish in the bottom of the machine that may have obstructed the spray arm. Just a guess . . .

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Hi Shinnbone,

I'm not sure what F1 is on a dishdrawer, but if you ask in the AUS/US forums on UKW (see sig) one of the Whirlpool boys on there will know for sure.

What I can tell you is that if you put cups or glasses on the top trays, the fold up ones for *cups*, that are too tall the lid doesn't close right and it can cause a leak. Invariably this can lead to a very expensive electronic control card needing replaced as it's shot.

K.

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F1 means the flood switch was activated for more than 6 seconds.  A number of conditions can cause this, one of which is whether or not a flood actually occurred.  Other conditions that can cause an F1:

  1. Lid not sealing correctly.
  2. Water level in tub too high.
  3. Leaking water inlet valve.
  4. Dishdrawer not priming correctly.
  5. Split spray arm.
  6. Spary arm not turning freely.
  7. Water leak from the drain hose.
  8. Water leaking around the heater plate o-rings.
  9. Drain hose partially blocked or restricted.
  10. Condensation around the chassis flood switch PCB.

 

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Is this F1 Fault appearing on Both units or only on the Top Unit?

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First I would take out the rack and make sure everything is assembled correctly.

Unplug it and dry all the water below the bottom drawer - then see if it's any happier.

The heater ring and electronic control module are both pretty wimpy on this model.

They are surrounded by - and destroyed easily by water.

These are beasts for the home handyman.

If drying and resetting does not do it.

I would call samauri and pay his planefare to repair it.

good luck

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The best thing to do is turn the power off ,remove the bottom drawer by pushing in the clips on side of the drawer ,just below the round plugs.  The clips are attached to runners, push them back to release the drawer and ( after taking out the rack and spray arm) put the drawer on its r.h.side.  Mop up the all water in the base, then remove the cover that goes over the back L.h. corner, this will expose the mains/flood switch board ( make sure you dry the roof of the drawer before you take the cover off , or water can drip onto the board .....not a good thing!!!:yikes:). 

 To remove the cover, push in the clip in the middle front edge of the cover with a flat blade screwdriverand slide the cover foward a bit, then put the screwdriver under the clip and twist up, the cover should now pull off to the right.  Spend a couple of minutes drying the board with a hair dryer and mop up any remaining water ( be careful of the board again).  Refit the cover and switch back on ( you shouldn't need to force the cover on, just slide it on from right to left , but you may have to push down the cover just above the clip to get it to lock once it is located correctly).  If it doesn't F1 again ,all good, if it does , remove cover and redry, and repeat until it doesn't.

 To refit drawer, slide out L.h. rail and sit drawer on it, then lift right side of drawer and slide out other rail and sit other side down.  If the rails don't want to slide foward and lock, lift the drawer at the front while sliding the rail fowarduntil the front edge of the rail is just at the clipping gap at the side of the drawer, then make sure the drawer is sitting down firmly on the rails and pull clips foward to lock.  If  the drawer has been clipped in correctly it will slide in and out nicely, if not , look at the back edge of the drawer when it is fully open to see where it is sitting too high  and rectify by refitting  the rail on the affected side/sides.  By this point if any part of the bottom drawer was broken ,you would have seen it.  Also check the top drawer by releasing it and pulling it foward,shine torch in and have a good look.

  Hopefully it won't leak again unless ther is a faulty part not visible to the naked:shock: eye, check by running one drawer for a couple of minutes, stop the cycle and open the drawer and check the outsides for water ( don't be too worried if you see water in the bottom between the drawers as it will drip from the roof, unless the drain or fill hoses are split ) ,if ok, run the other drawer and check.   

Remember, if you get to a point where you don't feel confident with what you doing or you think you might break something, leave it and call a professional to do the job,  you may save money in the long run and if you going to expose wires or connections always switch off and unplug before removing the cover, you dont know whats underneath:poison:.

I hpoe this helps someone.

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:party:Thank You Kiwi Master Appliantologist!!!   Your instructions worked.  Great detail--Thanks again,

Steve

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i had an f1 from a power failure. i followed your directions and im up and running

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Glad I could help, and thanks for the feedback!!!:rocker:

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Thanks so much for the instructions -- my husband followed them and everything works!  I can only imagine what a repairman would have charged!:yikes:

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Great detailed instructions, worked like a champ - thanks!

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Many Thanks for the information,

I was sad and thought i was going to have to trash my Fisher & Paykel Dishdrawer after only 2 years of loyal service, which is totally pants quite honestly! It was making an awful beeping noise, but after reading the actions mentioned regarding how to clear the fault, i'm now going to be happy again, once i've dried it out!

Cheers

;)

 

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Help! Help!

I did as you instructed Master, and all went well. I was thrilled, but pride come before a fall and I come again to seek enlightenment.

I ran through the instructions and popped everything back together. As planned no nasty beeping and I put the bottom unit on to a 12 minute cycle. I let it run to the end and no issues. :D

I proceeded to repeat with the top unit. Sadly, about a minute or two into the cycle water started pouring out of the RHF corner. I opened the drawer and found the top edge of the unit to be very wet on the RHS. The LHS was much dryer. I have removed the upper unit and the inside of the chassis is soaking, but only on the RHS. It appears that the lid or top is not closing properly on that side. (At this stage both units were empty, so no chance of a large object holding the lid up and preventing a seal.)

Any suggestions?

 

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[user=0]Goldie6175[/user] wrote:

Thanks so much for the instructions -- my husband followed them and everything works!  I can only imagine what a repairman would have charged!:yikes:

guess what,he IS a repairman !!!  and how much did he charge you??  not enough if you haven't yet donated to the beer fund.

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:) Make sure that the support rails on BOTH sides are fully engaged to their latches at the front of the drawer.  Same happened to me after original flood, and I found that I had not fully latched the support rail at the right front.  It made the drawer a little askew therefore not allowing a proper lid seal.

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Thanks for your advice you saved my a bunch of money :D:bananadance:

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I have a real stupid question. I have a DD603 with the integrated panel, so no LCD display. About a month ago, the top drawer started beeping (2 beeps) and some motor is running. Didn't matter if the drawer was opened or closed. Pressing the power button (one on the left) stopped it, but only for a few seconds. Only way to stop it was to unplug the unit.  We were too busy to look at it, and after a long vacation, we plugged it back in. No beeps. We tried running the bottom drawer and it worked fine. The next day we tried running both drawers and that worked as well. The next day we ran only the top drawer and now both drawers are beeping. I removed the bottom drawer and found a troubleshooting guide attached to the back of the unit. That wasn't much help. I did the lock and start button thing, but soon after pressing the powe button, the unit goes back into beeping mode with a motor running. The guide doesn't really explain what the LEDs indicate. At least not that I'm confident in.

So, does the double beeping indicate anything? Any help is greatly appreciated.

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There will be water in the base pan.  Follow the expertly written and very comprehensive instructions earlier in the post regarding the fixing of your problem.  The fault code on an intergrated unit is displayed on the top of the drawer . If the rinse light is on this indicates an F1 fault. 

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Thanks for the reply. I had finally figured out the fault code sequence just after I posted my question, but it still didn't help. Believe it or not, in the last 2 months my wife has not killed me for not getting this fixed. Late last week, however, this changed. So I dove back in and got the machine running again. It wasn't hard. After 2 months everything was dry. Ran a rinse cycle in each unit and all was well. Ran a load in the upper unit and it faulted again. This time I checked for water in the pan and found some. Also on top of the lower unit. After some inspection, I think I see a split in the drain line in the upper unit. Also, the white retainer is broken. I tried clicking on the site's parts button, but Fisher Paykel is not listed and after a search on google, I'm not any closer. I saw in another thread on this site that someone ordered directly from FP, but their (FP) site has no obvious way to get parts. Any suggestions? I saw someone here (another thread) say they patched a drain line, but do you know what to use?

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IF the link support is broken, this will be causing the leak as it gets between the seal and the drawer and creates a gap in the seal.

Phone F+P customer services local office PH# (should be availiable on the web site, but the Canada # is 1-888-936-7872 ).  Ask them to send you 2 link supports,  and they might just do it!!  It always pays to do both at the same time as the new style support is much stronger.

Good luck!;)

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It will indeed cost you to the tune of almost $400 to replace both support systems.  That was the $95 to come out, $179 each installed minus the labor for the second which they nicely let us off!  Ridiculous to pay half the cost of a new ordinary dishwasher when the units are less than 3 years old.  We were told that it will not happen again given the new metal (not plastic) supports.  Great but what next?

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Aww, crizzle! Looks like I need to double all my prices again. Yer man's got a lovely markup going on that link support kit.

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$400 to replace 2 link supports is an outrageous price to pay.

Yes, its possible to run a repair bill up to that point, but it would have to entail replacing all four lid motors, both link supports and the mains filter board. And THEN you'd better be sure that your customer is wealthy enough to not care what you charge cause you would STILL make one HEALTHY profit!

As many here already know, being an authorized servicer in this area (San Diego North County Coastal),I see a good many Fisher & Paykel this and that, and I have yet to have charged anything more that $350 to replace all those said parts. Anybody that charges $400 for just two link supports is plain sticking it to you over and above the kind of reaming G.E. gives its customers.

Ok, Ok, once I did charge about $600 to repair a 603 that caught fire, but then there were a LOT of parts to change and the time alone was 3 hours, but thats the exception here...

By far, the link supports and Lid Motors are the culprit in all F1 error situations by a country mile, with an erronious Mains Filter Board causing about 5% of the angst. A leaking fill or drain line in a 603 unit is almost unheard of.

As far as the boards being flaky, I disagree, Fisher Paykel makes quite reliable boards in my estimation. I seldem need to change them.

Robert Sankie

Coastal Appliance, Heating & A/C

www.coastalappliances.com

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Robert

Thanks for your contribution to this discussion.  Unfortunately there is only one FP service agent in our big metropolitan area (FP gave us two names and one said they did not do it anymore) and it was the day before Thanksgiving so when they could come that day we were pleased.  We normally would try and troubleshoot problems with appliances ourselves but regretfully didn't in this case - thought it would be too complicated and that a leak situation might be tricky to diagnose.  Also because of the big noise the machine alarm made we had to turn off the power supply and that took out another nearby electric point we used a lot.  I am not sure that complaining to the company who serviced it would do much at this stage.  We were obligated to pay the $95 come out fee anyway.  Seeing what it took to install the support retrofit (10 mins each at most once the drawers were on the floor) we could have done it if we had been able to see that that was the problem and could have bought the parts!  Definitely feel sick about it but in future we will not rush to get repairs done - just come to this forum and be grateful for the donated time and advice from people like you.  

 

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