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GE refrigerator troubleshoot help


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29 replies to this topic

#21 scconsulting

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 03:19 PM

Previously, with everything assembled a couple of nights ago, the only noise was the very quiet hum of the big fan on the end of the condenser core.  When I jumped the j8 and j11 legs I heard a click, either from the relay or somewhere on the motherboard (I couldn't tell which).   I just sat there a couple of minutes and reached over to see if I could feel any vibration on the compressor housing and it was not vibrating or anything, but it was hot to the touch.  I'm assuming that if the compressor was running I would know it because it would be significantly louder than the little fan spinning, but I don't remember the last time I noticed what the sound of the compressor was, it's just one of those ambient sounds that eventually I tuned out. 



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#22 scconsulting

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 06:59 AM

Reassembled everything last night.  Both sides started cooling right away.  The compressor is definitely running (it is so quiet that you almost can't tell and only the faintest vibration of the housing).  After about 3 hours it was 55 degrees in both the freezer and fridge side.  Went to bed, got up this morning and it's 34 on the refrigerator side (setting is actually for 37), and 4 on the freezer side (setting is actually for 0).  When the compressor is running the compressor housing does get up to about 145-150 degrees.  I am really at a loss, should I trust it to keep functioning correctly?



#23 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 07:27 AM

Did you replace the ptc? Buy it from repair clinic. if it doesn't stop the problem, return it and get a board.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

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#24 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 07:35 AM

Compressor relay:  http://www.repaircli...7X10057/1091629

 

Main PCB:  http://www.repaircli...5X10942/1531075



#25 scconsulting

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 07:41 AM

No I didn't replace the ptc. Basically I've disassembled the ptc, overload, and run capacitor, metered them all, metered the compressor pins, and reassembled everything. Other than that all I've done is run through all the diagnostic tests from the display and forced the compressor on once by jumping the j8 and j11 pegs on the motherboard. Now that it's all back together it is running normal as far as I can tell.

#26 dimitri77565

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 08:53 AM

WOW you all are too technical when this happens the !st & easiest to check is Main Board,  pull out & look under main compressor relay it should be burnt or solder is tarnished.

 

Averages say 8-10 odds its the board.



#27 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 09:26 AM

WOW you all are too technical when this happens the !st & easiest to check is Main Board, pull out & look under main compressor relay it should be burnt or solder is tarnished.

Averages say 8-10 odds its the board.


In other words "here's your fish, now go away"

Lest you forget, this is a training academy. We are not here to answer and solve just one person's problem but to teach and share info to grasshoppers and masters alike.

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#28 scconsulting

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 09:55 AM

The main board looks pristine, the relay a little grungy but the terminals are clean at the connection area. As if now it's functioning correctly for about 14 hours. So at this point I'm going to monitor it and wait for the defect to present itself again.

#29 dimitri77565

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 10:06 AM

Leave it to the Appliance Gremlin  LOl.



#30 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 06:20 AM

Did you pull the board and look at the back/trace side?  Front side can look fine and still have burnt/cold/broken solder connections.


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501




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