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laxdef69

Ghost is given up

19 posts in this topic

I've got an OLD set of Kenmore W/D that has finally given up the ghost...Thinking in terms of energy efficiency, probably time to replace this 20 y/o W/D set.

 

Any recommendations from the Master Appliantologists with regards to

 

1) Brands/models to buy

2) Brands/models to avoid.

 

Konichiwa!

 

 

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Thought I could edit the earlier posts. I did a search for recommendations, and only found a post from 3 years ago...

 

Desirements, in order of importance, are:
1) Must do a good job (of course)
2) Excellent reliability/longevity
3) Ease of repair
4) Efficient to operate
5) Willing to buy a premium brand/unit, but not if I have to take out a new mortgage to pay for it

 

Same question, but for stackable units.


Indifferent as to front or top loader, I have the space for either...actually might prefer a stackable, so front loader first, then top loader.
 
Waiting to hear from RegUSPatOff...Thanks all!

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... I've got an OLD set of Kenmore W/D that has finally given up the ghost...

... Thinking in terms of energy efficiency,

1) what's wrong with your current set ?

2) newer models use less water, but may be at reduced cleaning

Is water expensive where you live ?

 

 

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Its kind of like picking your favorite Menendez brother or politician these days. There really isnt a good honest stacker made any more. The design parameters that built your last set, reliability, longevity, simplicity of design are out the window.The new products regrdless of what you buy are going to be over engineered crap, designed to last around 2000 to 2500 washes. Then you get to replace them with another set.I would suggest you consider seperates, perhaps the Kenmore Elite, made by LG. Avoid Whirlpool.Thier electronics are soft and over priced.Stay in the low end of the upper spectrum. NO STEAM.If the set you have can be overhauled and refurbished, by all means, do it. Perhaps you can find a semi retired old fart like me to do it in his shop over a period of time rather that crammed in your utility closet or bathroom. Thats all I have to say. Good Luck!

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Subscribe to the free Appliantology newsletter and download your free appliance brand recommendation report:  http://newsletter.appliantology.org/

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I was out of town for a couple days since I posted.

 

Kenmore Washer.

 

Model number is 110.92597200, Serial is CE3103481.

 

Going for a run, then running through the troubleshooting flowcharts in the Repair Manual for Kenmore Automatic Washers...

 

Thanks ya'll!

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I was out of town for a couple days since I posted.

 

Kenmore Washer.

 

Model number is 110.92597200, Serial is CE3103481.

 

Going for a run, then running through the troubleshooting flowcharts in the Repair Manual for Kenmore Automatic Washers...

 

Thanks ya'll!

One more thing, it wont' drain on any setting, but does agitate on all of them.  No noise when turning on the spin cycle, so I'm inclined to think that it's not the pump...thoughts?  Thanks!

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I don't have a wiring diagram for that model, but it may be a bad Lid Switch ..

Some newer models also stop the Agitation when the Lid is raised.

Does yours ?

 

 

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  Lid switch on that model only affects drain/spin.

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Weirder and weirder.  I took off the white and black wiring blocks to test the timer, got confused, plugged them back in, plugged in the washer, and she started spinning...3 loads of laundry later, works like a champ...

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Reg, I'll upload either the diagrams or links to them that are under the front console...might as well be heiroglyphics to me...I can read a ohmmeter just fine, but I have no idea which colors to test for continuity...lol...to quote Clint Eastwood as Dirty Harry; "A man's got to know his limitations".

 

Thanks all!

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If it still works, DON'T get rid of it!

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If it still works, DON'T get rid of it!

Yup...after listening to Reg, electricity and water are pretty cheap here.  If I can keep it going, I sure will...feel pretty confident about the ability to do it with so many masters behind me!

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  Lid switch on that model only affects drain/spin.

after looking at the wiring diagram, I agree

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Yup...after listening to Reg, electricity and water are pretty cheap here.  If I can keep it going, I sure will...feel pretty confident about the ability to do it with so many masters behind me!

Reg, are you able to tell from the pics which color wires I should check for continuity between the black and white blocks for the spin cycle?  I'm leery of "magical" fixes...

 

Thanks!

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I'll check it......just noticed one screw has come loose from the pair that holds the switch...could be getting knocked out of alignment, or keeping it from making contact...many many thanks!

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If the screw is loose it could be caused by the case of the switch being broke  and you may not be able to tighten the screw.

 

These switches are made out of somewhat brittle plastic and it's pretty common to see the flag lever break off and the top half the the screw hole bosses crack and let the complete switch assembly fall down.   Another pretty common thing to see with these switches is the glue that holds the switch case halves together lets loose and the switch falls apart.

 

You might want to remove the two screws from the switch and pull it down and out far enough to inspect to make sure it's not spitting in half or the screw bosses being cracked - If it is you will have continuing problems if you don't replace it.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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