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LG LDS5811WW dishwasher E1 error code

LD dishwasher e1 fills and drains

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10 replies to this topic

#1 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 02:31 PM

Got a weird one with this LG dishwasher M/N LDS5811WW, S/N 605KW00710.  When starting a cycle, the unit fills with water and then about halfway through the fill, turns on the drain pump, emptying the basin.  Instead of stopping, it keeps right on running, turning off the drain pump after emptying the basin and then powering up the vario motor as if it's going to wash some dishes.  Eventually it throws the E1 error code because the basin is empty.  

 

It's not a siphoning issue because it's actually powering up the drain pump to empty the basin while the filling at the same time.  

 

Inspected the wire loom in the door.  They were stuck in black pitch material but none appeared broken.  

 

I don't know if I'm dealing with a flakey float switch or a bad control board.  Hoping Brother John, our resident Dean of LG Appliantology, can cast some pearls of wisdom my way.  

 

Domo!  



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#2 PDuff

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 03:14 PM

E1 could be motor fault but I've seen a faulty guide assy throw this code during the fill cycle.  There's been a revision to the part and should sub over when researched.



#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 03:33 PM

Domo for the intel, Brother PDuff. This one doesn't throw the E1 until the cycle has already been running-- without water in the basin-- for several minutes. But it does energize the drain pump during the fill cycle.

Is there a way to analytically test the float switch/ guide assembly to determine if it's causing the problem?

Have the control boards ever been implicated with this problem description?



#4 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 05:01 PM

I concur that the E1 error is probably a false error due to the fact that the drain pump has kicked in and drained the water. I would bet it is the water level sensor (float assembly) causing the panic mode of starting the drain pump. I have torn these apart and have seen no apparent failure after replacing them and solving the issue. Some technicians have had some success in flushing the thing out with clean water as well as the hose that attaches to it.


We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

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#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 05:08 PM

Great info, Brother Chat!  I'll go back and pull the unit out and check the float (or "guide" assembly) for gookification.  I was reading in this topic where a sticking float in the guide assembly was the culprit.  

 

BTW, have you gotten your Appliantology Communion Cup yet?



#6 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 05:14 PM

BTW, have you gotten your Appliantology Communion Cup yet?

 I was very humbled to receive chalice of the gods, may I prove myself worthy...


We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

Mother Teresa

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 05:26 PM

 I was very humbled to receive chalice of the gods, may I prove myself worthy...

 

 

Ah, but you have many times over!  



#8 john63

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 07:20 PM

 <<<When starting a cycle, the unit fills with water and then about halfway through the fill, turns on the drain pump, emptying the basin.  Instead of stopping, it keeps right on running, turning off the drain pump after emptying the basin and then powering up the vario motor as if it's going to wash some dishes.  Eventually it throws the E1 error code because the basin is empty>>>

**********

 

Caused by one or both of the following conditions:

 

1) Contaminated/gummed-up FLOAT ASSY (4769DD2001A)---always replace.

 

2) Hose that connects the Float Assy-to-the-Sump Housing---is restricted/blocked by fatty deposit. This hose can be removed and cleaned.

 

 

Inspect the GUIDE ASSY (4769DD1001A) as well (there's a small paddle-wheel/Hall Sensor within it).

 

If there's evidence of iron deposit forming (reddish color)---replace the Guide Assy rather than just the Float Assy.

 

NOTE: A replacement Guide Assy---includes a new Float Assy (complete kit).

 

Iron deposits cause the Hall Sensor to malfunction---and not be able "to read/measure" the amount of water entering the tub.

 

A few things to be aware of:

 

This dishwasher was built before September 2006---and DOES NOT have the Drain Hose with a *siphon break*.

If the drain hose runs/routes through the floor (in a basement/crawl space)...

 

Install a new GUIDE ASSEMBLY (4975DD1001A) and the DRAIN HOSE (AEM69493801) which has the siphon break---to prevent loss of wash water during the cycle. Another option would be (if possible) to re-locate the original drain hose to the sink drain or disposer. If connected to a disposer---always leave a *loop* in the drain hose---to prevent debris/sink water from entering the drain hose---from the disposer.

 

Another item...

 

The original Drain Hose is white (color) and 18mm diameter---these were prone to splitting/cracking---causing water leaks during drain.

 

A revised Drain Hose (AEM30700301) was introduced to eliminate this. It is gray (color) and 20mm diameter AND IS AN EXACT REPLACEMENT for the *original* white drain hose (Has NO SIPHON BREAK).

If a siphon break is not needed---this hose is the correct replacement.

 

All LG dishwasher drain hoses have a *U* shaped plastic HOSE HOLDER at the rear/base of the unit.

This HOLDER keeps the hose in place.

Since the newer Drain Hose is 20mm---a new HOLDER (AGM31767901) is available (if desired---it *can* be left off/discarded with no ill effect).

 

Yet Another...

 

If the GUIDE ASSY (4975DD1001A) is being replaced---and the drain hose is either the original *white 18mm* hose OR the new *20mm gray hose* (AEM30700301)---and there's NO SIPHON BREAK HOSE (AEM69493801)...

 

Add a rubber cap to the hole at the top of the new GUIDE ASSY.

 

Any cap that fits will work---then tighten/secure that rubber cap with a zip tie.

 

This hole at the top of the *all* new GUIDE ASSYs---is where the small black overflow tube connects to---on the drain hose which *has* a siphon break.

 

Failure to seal this hole---will cause a leak during the cycle.

 

And finally...

 

 

All LG 5811 dishwashers have a flawed WASH MOTOR.

 

Ask your customer if any service had been done to the dishwasher previously. If not---a new SUMP ASSY (AJH31248604) may be needed.

 

Wrap/protect those wires within the door (that you've mentioned)

 

I know it's a lot to be aware of (and causes brain fatigue)---but good luck:)


Edited by john63, 12 October 2013 - 09:20 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 john63

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 09:48 PM

Additional Info...

 

The 20mm DRAIN HOSE (AEM30700301)---***without*** an anti-siphon has been discontinued.

 

The replacement DRAIN HOSE (AEM69493801)---***with*** an anti-siphon is available---but with a new part number (AEM69493803).

 

 

If an *older* model LG dishwasher (609KW Serial Number and lower)----needs a drain hose...

 

Only one hose is available (AEM69493803).

 

This hose has an anti-siphon break.

 

Replacing the GUIDE ASSY (4975DD1001A)---now becomes *mandatory*.

 

However---if the Guide Assy is good/not defective and only the drain hose is needed...

 

Removing/discarding the small black rubber hose from new drain anti-siphon---and then adding a cap to the "gooseneck" (on the drain hose) allows continued use of the original Guide Assy.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 06:01 AM

As always, fantastic info, Brother John!  Armed with your excellent and detailed advice, I'll go back out with a more analytical eye.  Sounds like for the amount of work involved in removing the dishwasher (funky installation) and the relatively low cost of the parts, I might as well quite the job replacing both the guide assembly and the drain hose.  

 

The only thing that bothers me is the sump assembly-- this has not been replaced and there were signs of dried brown dribbling beneath it in the drip pan.  I'd hate for the customer to pay for a new guide and drain hose only to have to replace the sump assembly 6 months later (and I'd hate to pull the unit out from this installation again!).  

 

Does is make sense to quote with the guide, drain hose, and sump assembly?  Basically gutting the machine but the fee to do all that might nudge them to just replace the dishwasher altogether.  



#11 john63

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 10:27 AM

We are likely similar in our approach to customers.

 

Customers like choices/options.

 

If this were my service call---I would give full disclosure/history of the dishwasher and then allow the owner to decide the course of action to take.

 

If there's 34" from the floor-to-the-bottom-of-the-counter (the minimum measurement required to normally remove and re-install an LG dishwasher)...

 

Option One:

 

Replace the GUIDE ASSY and DRAIN HOSE for X cost.

 

Option Two:

 

Replace the GUIDE ASSY/DRAIN HOSE and SUMP ASSY for X cost

 

Option Three:

 

Advise the customer that an all-new re-designed LG dishwasher is now available---which has many refinements over the original 5811 model.

 

One of the main improvements is better drying performance.

 

Other improvements are mainly software upgrades---such as better heating of the water during the cycle (for improved wash results).

 

A new Detergent Dispenser---that slides open rather than flip open (the original dispenser lid/cover tends to warp from heat and fail to latch in the closed position).

 

However...

 

If there's *less* than 34" from the floor to the underside of the counter...

 

I'd recommend replacing the dishwasher---with a model designed for *built-up floors*---such as one made by GE.

 

This would allow for a normal New Install---as well as normal/simple future repairs.

 

Some kitchen floors need to be pulled/lifted in front of a dishwasher---each and every time that the dishwasher needs a repair or replacement (a major hassle/inconvenience).


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"





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