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Dacor ECS130SCH oven not heating


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10 replies to this topic

#1 bigbluediesel

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 02:50 PM

My brother has a weird Dacor convection oven.  He called today to tell me it isn't heating.  He says he "reset it" (power off / power on) and it would heat to about 150° F. 

 

It 45 miles from my house, but I came by to help with some other wiring issues and got the model number. The door wasn't shutting completely - the latch hook was bent slightly up so it wasn't engaging.  Adjusted that and the door closes better, although no where near the closed feel of my KitchenAid oven.  Nonetheless, put my oven thermometer in, turned it 350° Bake and - nothing.  No heat.  No glowing coils.  Nada.

 

I didn't see the thermocouple anywhere - I assume its hidden behind the back panel which encloses the fan.  That would be my first guess, but I'd rather approach this with an intelligent diagnostic technique.  What should I check and what values should I see.  A service manual / wiring diagram would be great if anyone has access.  Thanks as always.

 

 


Edited by bigbluediesel, 12 October 2013 - 02:52 PM.


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#2 PDuff

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 03:20 PM

Could still be a problem with the latch assy, one of the switches maybe not actuating.  With the Dacor's seems the most common repairs are membrane switches and latch assy's.



#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 04:22 PM

How's the Bake Element ?

Does Broil work OK ?

Does the Convection work OK ?

http://www.repaircli...ECS130SCH-==c42

How's the manual reset Hi-limit Switch ?

http://www.repaircli...ECS130SCH-==c24

 

 

 


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#4 bigbluediesel

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 10:13 PM

Neither the bake nor the broil element are coming on.  Both burning out simultaneously seems unlikely, doesn't it?  Where is this hi limit switch you speak of?  What should it ohm out at?

 

PDuff - I've never used this oven.  Its easier to go outside and start a fire than to operate this thing...  Does the latch assembly affect the oven coming on or off?  My Kitchenaid will activate irrespective of door position. 



#5 bigbluediesel

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 01:26 PM

Update.  Stopped by his house on the way home from church.  Did a little digging - below the console, when you open the door, is a 1 1/2" tall, full width access panel.  The one that the latch comes through.  I took that off and low and behold - there is the high limit switch. 

 

I grounded one terminal of my voltmeter and checked for voltage on both poles - nothing when off.  When I hit the bake button, after a second you hear a click and I got 120 volts on one pole (remember my voltmeter is grounded to case, not to the other hot) - when I went to reach around to the other lead, I noticed it was glowing at the connection.  There was a pile of molten metal below it. 

 

I turned the power off and went to remove this switch.  Here's where the Dacor people get credit where credit is due.  This workspace is 1 1/2" tall.  My arm is 3" thick.  Thanks Dacor.  We really appreciate the design foresight....

 

Anyway, after a few unhealthy thoughts directed at the manufacturer, I got it off.  The crimp terminal on the back pole is burned almost completely off.  The switch terminal is loose and charred.  I am ordering a new switch in hopes that it was a bad connection arcing that caused all of this.  I suppose the other possibility is a short somewhere that took out the weakest link.  If anyone can direct me on how to check that while I am waiting for the switch, I would appreciate it.



#6 Cactus Bob

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 01:52 PM

your on the right track , a short could not cause this

replace the switch and the connector


Edited by Cactus Bob, 13 October 2013 - 01:56 PM.

SORRY ABOUT THE SPELLING , I FIX GREAT , I DON'T SPELL WELL

#7 bigbluediesel

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 05:44 PM

Thanks Bob - that makes me feel better.  As far as the connector - can you direct me to an appropriate replacement.  My only thought is to take a yellow female spade connector and strip the plastic off.  I would probably crimp and solder it on to make sure it has a good connection.  Do you feel this is heavy duty enough?



#8 PDuff

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 05:50 PM

Should be.  Red high temp connector would be better.  Brother diesel, was the damage found at the tco?  That's highly unusual.  How's that latch assy look?  Bad neutral at the main power connection?



#9 bigbluediesel

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 06:06 PM

Is the high temp switch the same as the thermal cut off?  The latch assembly looks like someone put it in a smoker for about half a year.  Lots of "seasoning" baked on everything.  Repair Clinic lists this latch assembly as unavailable..  I'm not sure about the neutral.  I'd have to pull the oven to get to that, and if I'm going to pull this monster, I'm putting another brand back in its place...



#10 bigbluediesel

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 06:08 PM

Attached File  IMG_0962.JPG   44.05KB   0 downloads

 

New thermal switch in place.  The picture is somewhat deceiving - there is only 1 1/2 inches of clearance in here.

 

Attached File  IMG_0963.JPG   50.18KB   0 downloads

 

The culprit.  That's one toasty spade connector.

 

Attached File  IMG_0964.JPG   44.32KB   0 downloads

 

The co-conspirator.  The terminal on the old switch is one step away from falling off.

 

 

Thanks to all who chipped in.  Mr. Dacor lives to see another day...



#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 03:21 PM

Nice job, bigblue!






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