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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

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Kitchen Aid refrigerator not cooling ktrc22ekss01

16 posts in this topic

My Kitchen Aid refrigerator is not cooling enough, it is model#  ktrc22ekss01top freezer. The Freezer is cold, 10 degrees. The refrigerator is at 50 and is on the coldest setting. There is some cool air coming out of the vent at the back of the refrigerator. I went through the Warm Refrigerator Troubleshooting Flowchart and I am at the yellow box that says Disassemble freezer to get eyeballs on evaporator coil. I think this is behind the panel at the back of the freezer. I am going to do some more digging and see if I am correct and try and get at it. My guess right now is a defrost issue. Anyone have any tips, I'll post back when I learn more. 

 

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The Freezer is cold, 10 degrees. 

 

 

10F is not cold enough.  Freezer should be 0F.  If you can't get to 0F in the freezer, then check:

 

- condenser: make sure it's clean

- condenser fan motor: running full speed

- evaporator (freezer) fan motor running

- door gaskets and closing for proper seal

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or of coarse defrost problem. check for frosted up evap.

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Checking in, Great Samurai, correction on the freezer temp it is 0, we had it open a lot when I first checked, refrigerator is at 48 now. 

 

- condenser: make sure it's clean - it is

- condenser fan motor: running full speed - not sure, i assume is that at the bottom, smoke test shows it drawing air.

- evaporator (freezer) fan motor running - It is, there is a small area of frost above it on the back of the freezer wall

- door gaskets and closing for proper seal - Good - no issues

 

Electro-doc - Yea I need to read up on how to disassemble the back of the freezer compartment and check. 

 

A little more info at this point may help. We put a too large grocery bag of smoked pork chops and sausages for a annual Choucroute Alsacienne dish for a Alsatian wine tasting tomorrow night for 20 people (it is a fab dish if anyone wants the recipe I will post, it is from the Silver Palate Cookbook.) This morning I think the door was very slightly ajar because of the bag and noticed the fridge a little warm. The freezer was pretty full so I made sure the vent was not blocked and thought it would come back up to temp. When it did not I moved the perishable in the refrigerator to a cooler. Tommorrow I think I will move the stuff in the freezer to the fridge and have at pulling the back panel in the freezer off and check for a defrost issue. I really appreciate the quick responses, I think I may now be able to sleep tonight. Will repost when i figure out how to get at and check for frosted up evap. 

THANKS, 

 

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Just a thought, is there anyway to force the defrost cycle?

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Yes but I don't have the service manual.  You should be able to see frost build up on the freezer back wall if the evap is frozen up.  After your latest information I'm leaning towards a dirty condenser.  It's under the refrigerator and you should probably take the back or the front off and get a flashlight and look and see if it is full of dirt.  Get a bottle brush and a vacuum and clean that baby out.

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What exactly are your fridge and freezer settings? See http://appliantology.org/topic/40379-ge-fridge-model-tfx22jayaww-how-do-the-controls-work/

i beleveTo initiate defrost, use ff control to turn the fridge off. Unplug fridge. Wait at least 30 seconds and plug fridge back in. The fridge should now be in defrost mode. if you have a frost buildup and the heater comes on during forced defrost, replace your adc board. If the heater does not come on, check heater and limit for continuity. Replace either part if no continuity (limit must be around 20 degress to test it). Replace failed part. If they test ok but still do not come on (verify you are in defrost mode) replace ADC board.

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This morning the refrigerator is at 40

 

Electro-doc - condenser is clean it was a little dirty but I cleaned it good as soon as the problem showed. There is a small area of frost on the back of the freezer.

 

Grand Master Funk -  This unit has a scale of off to 7 for both the refrigerator and freezer settings. Before the problem the freezer was on 6 and I believe the refrigerator was on 6 also, not sure as my wife mucked with them and can't remember but as I recall from the past it was 6 and had not been changed for a long time. When the issue arose I cranked them both to 7. 

 

I read your setting link but please note I am an ex mechanic and very handy person but still yet an appliance grasshopper so I am having a little trouble digesting your info.  I realize that link was a discussion between experts and about another model but basically what I get from it is max is not always best.

 

I also am confused by "if you have a frost buildup and the heater comes on during forced defrost, replace your adc board." I would think the heater should come on during a defrost and I do not know how to tell if it did. Sorry I am such a grasshopper.

 

As of right now my guess is the evaporator may be too frosted for the forced to work so I am going to move the stuff in the freezer to the fridge and have at pulling the back panel in the freezer off so I can get eyeballs on it and check for a defrost issue unless someone tells me different. 

 

Thanks again

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Attached (if I did the attach right) is a pic of the frost on the back of the freezer. Once I get eyeballs on the evap I will report back. 

 

frost.jpeg

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Please set all controls to the middle/ normal setting.

Your fridge has only one shared cooling source, the evaporator in the freezer. Your refrigerator control is a thermostat, not unlike the thermostat for your home's AC unit. The freezer control simply operates a damper door between the compartments.

Let us suppose you have a two story, two room house. Bedroom upstairs kitchen downstairs . Now let us suppose the bedroom has a window AC unit but the thermostat is located in the kitchen near the stairway. You keep both rooms cool by keeping the stairway door open. One night, you decided you wanted your bedroom as cold as possible so you go to the kitchen, max out the thermostat and you close the door to the stairway. The bedroom gets colder. What do you think happens to the temperature in the kitchen?

Not only will the kitchen become warmer but since the thermostat is in the kitchen, the AC unit in the bedroom runs constantly since the thermostat threshold temp cannot be satisfied. It still think it's too warm. Now your bread and apples in the kitchen start to go bad while you are freezing your buns off asleep in the bedroom. You figure, once you wake up you will put a note on the door, "coldest = closed... so keep door halfway open"

The freezer control on your model is like the door to that stairway. Coldest ie setting # 7 is closed. So wake up (double entendre intended) open the door half way and put the thermostat on a normal setting. This way your bedroom(freezer) is cold and will not over freeze and your kitchen (fresh food section) is cold as well.

And if the above is confusing or doesn't apply, still put controls on normal settings in order that we can properly diagnose the problem.

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sounds like your original problem could be from not closing the freezer door all the way.  This will also cause frost on the freezer back wall.  Set all controls to normal and see if things don't even out.  0 and 40 is good.  If you trigger defrost and it is working you should be able to hear a sizzling noise from behind the freezer back wall.  taking off the back wall will help with the diagnosis but may not be necessary if all is checking out ok.  Make sure doors are shut and leave it run for awhile.  set controls at normal settings and give it 24 hours to stabilize.

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... Attached (if I did the attach right) is a pic

grasshoppers can't post pictures here directly..

post to some photo website, then post the links here

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Grand Master Funk - Understanding it is a damper and not a separate cooling sys for fridge helped a lot. Good analogy, if the freezer is set too cold it shuts the damper.

 

Electro Doc - Unplugged the unit. Pulled the unit all the way out. Cleaned the evap from the back best I could. I could not see the multiple rows of coils from the front. Set to 4, will report back, how long should I give it?

 

Whoever engineered this thing needs to spend eternity in hell cleaning the evap, or attempting to. 

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I presume you are talking about the condenser, the evap is in the freezer.  Good job cleaning it.  I sometimes have to use an air compressor to clean them, they can be tough.


Grand Master Funk - Understanding it is a damper and not a separate cooling sys for fridge helped a lot. Good analogy, if the freezer is set too cold it shuts the damper.

 

Electro Doc - Unplugged the unit. Pulled the unit all the way out. Cleaned the evap from the back best I could. I could not see the multiple rows of coils from the front. Set to 4, will report back, how long should I give it?

 

Whoever engineered this thing needs to spend eternity in hell cleaning the evap, or attempting to. 

give it 24 hours to equalize.

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Electro Doc "I presume you are talking about the condenser, the evap is in the freezer" - Yes, sorry

 

You guys rock.

 

I think the trick here is to get the freezer right then set the fridge.  I gave it 24 hours, it held at 0 and 40, I then set the freezer a half point warmer. it went to 3 degrees  so it took it back to 4, I then went a half notch cooler on the fridge each day until I got it to 37 degrees. 

 

Thanks again!

 

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keep that condenser clean!  Check it every six months if you have pets and at least once a year if not.  You can save yourself a lot of headaches.  Good Job!

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