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Whirlpool Electrice Range troubles


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11 replies to this topic

#1 surgeburge

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 10:24 AM

My RF364PXPB2 Smooth  Top Range  has stopped working.  The entire control unit has gone dark.  The light inside the oven still works, but the control panel and the knobs are non-functional.  I put a meter on the outlet plugs and get a 120 on one side and nothing on the other.  I don't know enough about our friend electricity to know if I am even doing it right.  I read somewhere that this could be a breaker problem. I did try to replace the breaker and that didn't seem to affect anything.  Any help would be appreciated.



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 11:38 AM

Has this Range been working for you OK up till now at this location  ?

Check for 120v at each of the Breakers.

Check for 120v inside the Wall Outlet.


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#3 surgeburge

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 12:27 PM

It was working fine until last night.  Oven was used a lot yesterday baking pumpkins.

 

On the breaker, it is two 50's side by side, but not connected to each other.  I tried the lead from one hot to the main and it showed "0" and the other showed "223".   Again, I don't know enough to know if that would be normal. 

 

On the outlet end, leads on one side show "120" and then "0" across the other two combinations of slots. 

 

Thanks for the reply.



#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 12:39 PM

at the Breaker,

each Breaker to chassis / ground = 120v

between one Breaker to the other = 240v

 

3-wire

OR

4-wire

outlet ?

 

 


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#5 surgeburge

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 01:11 PM

The outlet is 3 prong.  It seems that it was 4 prong before we bought this range a couple of years ago.  Maybe it was the other way around and we changed the plug on the stove to a 3.  In any case it has run well for a long time.  [Update: found the 4 prong plug hanging in the garage.  We changed the plug to a 3 to match the outlet.  That was about 2 years ago.]

 

On the breaker, one 50 hot-to-chassis (thanks for the correct language, by the way) reads the full 240.  The other one reads "0".  I  gather that should read 120 on each 50?

 

Should I measure across the breakers on the hot leads?  I guess I'll try both. [Update:  I am really confused now.  Both 50's now read "0" to the chassis.  I'm going to go take them to Lowes or HD and try to match them up.] 

 

I'll await any reply. I appreciate it.  Vols are playing right now anyway, so I'm not in a hurry.  Go Big Orange!



#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 01:35 PM

the one that reads "0" is bad (have you tried to re-set it) ?

 

If you un-plug the Range,

then the "good" one will read 120

 


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#7 surgeburge

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 06:14 PM

I JUST INSTALLED THE NEW BREAKER COMBO OF 50 AND 50.  OUTLET IS 120 ON BOTH  SIDES AND 240 ACROSS.  WOO-HOO! 

 

HOWEVER, AS SOON AS I PLUGGED IN THE RANGE THE PLUG ARCED AND THE BREAKER TRIPPED.

MIGHT I HAVE SWITCHED THE HOTS TO THE BREAKERS?  WOULD IT DO THAT?  REVERSE POLES OR SOME SUCH THING?  

 

I AM BAFFLED.  APPRECIATE THE HELP.



#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 06:19 PM

doesn't matter which Breaker is connected to which "hot" line

Seems the Range has a problem.

It may be one of the Oven Elements broken / partially shorted to chassis / ground

 


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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 06:27 PM

... although, that model uses a Double Line Break Relay,

which would isolate the Heating Elements when the Oven is OFF.

 


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#10 surgeburge

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 10:56 PM

I pulled the back off to try to find a scorch mark where there would be a short to ground.  Voila!  The three part "terminal" where the plug wires  are attached has been compromised.  The right side "black wire" connection is melted (the metal part) and warped and the plastic that holds the whole terminal has melted at the black connection.  It obviously got reeeaaalllly hot. 

 

So,  do I go get another terminal? Do I directly wire the black to the lead and bypass the terminal thingy?  Might there be another cause for this breakdown?  I am concerned simply because I don't understand how that part would do what it did. 



#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 11:39 PM

there may have been a loose connection

loose connections cause heat ..

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1181866

Terminal-Block-9761958-00711383.jpg


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#12 surgeburge

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 01:05 AM

The terminal melt had caused the plastic to fail and it then allowed the whole unit to pull out and contact the back grounded cover plate.  Problem solved.

 

I will order the part, and in the meantime I pulled the wire end loops off the melted terminal and bolted them together directly  with a double nutted bolt.   I got creative and softened the end flap of the plastic terminal with a blowtorch and folded it over the new junction until it cooled to hold it in place.  It should last the two days until I can get the new part in.

 

Range and oven work great!  Thank you for all the great help!  Scored some major husband points today!

 

Steve in Nashville, dad to seven, owner of a very oft-used range






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