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KitchenAid KSSS42QMX01 Intermittent Defrost


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8 replies to this topic

#1 tommyd3

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 07:09 PM

A couple of days ago my fridge was making noise so I cleaned the condenser coils for the first time in 2 years.

They had some dust but were not totally obstructed.

 

After that the temperature in the fridge side started rising and the freezer dropping (compressor running continuously).

I checked all the normal stuff (like condenser cooling fan, evaporator fan, air door) and everything was fine.

Let the fridge run overnight since they always say to wait 24 after changing something.

 

Yesterday morning the fridge was in the mid 40's and freezer at -10 (F).

I did some internet research and discovered if the control board was defective it is a $800 NOS part or a 2-3 week rebuild.

So we went to lunch and bought a new fridge for the garage so we could move the food out and troubleshoot / repair the KitchenAid.

Came home and the overtemp alarm was sounding and the compressor not running.

Reset the alarm and power cycled the fridge.

After some time it started cooling again.

 

Purchased the service manual.

Looked at the evaporator thru the holes and it was iced up.

There was air coming out at the top of the freezer (over the ice maker) but none coming thru the air door (which was open).

I took a PC fan and set it up to pull air thru the air door to bring the fridge temp down so the food in the fridge did not spoil before the new fridge arrived

After a few hours the fridge temps was in the 30's.

 

I figured if the defroster was not working the drip pan would be empty.

I pulled the drip pan out and it was half full of water with rust color in the bottom of the pan.

 

Left everything the same overnight last night and this afternoon the drip pan was ABSOLUTELY full !!!

Now the air is flowing into the fridge by itself so I removed the PC fan.

Apparently the evaporator iced up but then over two days the defroster melted the ice.

 

Was this due to the condenser coils not being cleaned for two years?

Is the control board ($800 new part or 2 week $200 rebuild) or bi metal sensor intermittent?

 

I plan on running the self test diagnostics after we move the food into the new fridge tomorrow.

 

The defrost cycle is supposed to be automatic and vary in frequency depending on how often it is needed.

Obviously this did not work. It would be nice if they had an evaporator iced up indicator and manual defrost control.

 

Apparently the defrost did finally come on and melt two drip pan trays full of ice.

 

Has anyone seen this before and have any suggestions?

 

Thanks.

 

 



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 07:45 PM

after the Evaporator Coils have been fully Defrosted  ... automatic or manually

would then need to see the frost pattern of the Freezer Evaporator Coils

after the Compressor has been running for an hour or two.

 

http://appliantology...t-wiring-sheet/

KitchenAid Refrigerator
KSSS42QMB01
KSSS42QMW01
KSSS42QMX01

Repair Part List - 8199083
Wiring Sheet - 2306332

 

similar service manual

http://appliantology...e-kss-w-idi-im/

KitchenAid Fridge KSS w/ IDI I/M

  • KAR-11 4317326A KSS 13 MB
  • Dispenser Service Sheet - W10285446
  • IDI Ice Maker Service Sheet - 2306424
  • Service Sheet Main Control - 2318069

MODELS:

KSSC36FK
KSSC36QK
KSSC42FK
KSSC42QK
KSSC48FK
KSSC48QK
KSSS36FK
KSSS36QK
KSSS42FK
KSSS42QK
KSSS48FK
KSSS48QK


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#3 tommyd3

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 07:51 PM

I ran the diagnostic tests and the Defrost heater & Bimetal test failed.

 

The fridge had been running normally with the freezer at 0 and the fridge at 34.

We emptied the fridge side of food which raised the fridge side to the mid 40's.

We had left the freezer door closed.

 

The freezer side should still have been cold enough for the bimetal to be closed, right?

 

I believe the bimetal is supposed to open at 50 degrees.

I think it is supposed to close at 10 degrees, is that right?

 

I will have to rip apart the entire freezer to get to these, but at least I think I have found my problem!!!

 

I presume that bimetal device is prone to failure?

The fridge is 7 years old.

 

Thanks.



#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 08:04 PM

I believe the bimetal is supposed to open at 50 degrees.
I think it is supposed to close at 10 degrees, is that right?
 
I presume that bimetal device is prone to failure?

that's about right

could be


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#5 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 08:11 PM

those bimetals can intermittently fail while on its way to complete failure. I just replaced one that closed but opened too quickly. Replace it anyway even if you ultimately find there is a different causation.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#6 tommyd3

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 11:54 AM

I took the freezer apart and tested the bimetal, heater core and 120V power source.

Bottom line is the diagnostic test works when the bimetal is bypassed but fails even after the fridge running all night with the freezer at 0 degrees.

I put the bimetal in another freezer and it did close after many hours.

 

I will replace it since it is at best intermittent.

 

Thanks for all the help here :wink:



#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 01:28 PM

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1058803

Defrost-Thermostat-2306462-01443043.jpg


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#8 tommyd3

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 01:49 PM

I know the 2306462 is the exact part for this application, but is there a "generic" substitute that is easier to get?

The 2306462 is out of stock for about two weeks at RepairClinic.

I was hoping to get one locally so I could repair the fridge tomorrow.

 

How about the 4387500, it has a 30-50 degree range (mine is 20-50) and the same snap on design.

Only concerned about the current capacity if my fridge has a higher current defrost coil.

 

Thanks.



#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 02:21 PM

Part number: 2306462

Part number: 2306462


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