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Kenmore Washer 99284100 Doesn't Spin - Bad Transmission, Tub Basket Stiff


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13 replies to this topic

#1 FrustratedDIY

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 01:41 PM

Washer does everything (fill, agitate, drain) except spin. Since it agitates the problem can't be the connector or clutch, but I checked them anyway and they are good. The transmission tests bad. When I turn the connector shaft counter clockwise the agitator shaft turns back and forth, but when I turn it clockwise the spin shaft does not turn. I see I can buy a 389244 transmission for about one to two hundred dollars, but I notice the tub basket is extremely stiff when I manually rotate it. Is this normal, or do I have another problem, perhaps bad bearings. Is it possible that the stiff-turning basket caused the transmission to fail? After twenty-one years of service maybe it's time for a new washer, but I'm amazed by the large number of negative reviews of the current Kenmore and Whirlpool top loading washers. 



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 01:49 PM

... Kenmore Washer 99284100
... but when I turn it clockwise the spin shaft does not turn.

1) would that be a 110.99284100 ?

can you check that model number again ?

2) may not be a bad Transmission...
it may be in the Neutral Drain mode ..
What does the Washer (Motor) do when set to the Spin cycle ?


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#3 fairbank56

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 02:10 PM

  The clutch has nothing to do with agitation operation. After washer drains for about 2 minutes the motor must pause for a few seconds so the gearcase shifts out of neutral, then it should start again for spin. If it doesn't pause after the 2 minute drain period, open/close the lid to create a manual pause. If it doesn't spin, run machine with cabinet removed and lid switch bypassed. Observe clutch hub when in spin mode. If it isn't spinning, there's a problem with the gearcase (assuming motor is running). If it is spinning, then either the clutch is bad or there's a problem with the basket drive or tub drive block. It is normal for you to not be able to spin basket by hand as the brakes are engaged.

 

Eric


Edited by fairbank56, 28 October 2013 - 02:11 PM.


#4 FrustratedDIY

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 02:11 PM

1) Yes, the full Kenmore number is 110.92284100. It's a "heavy duty 80 series" purchased in December 1992 

 

2) I have the transmission removed and sitting on my table and I'm manually turning the drive both clockwise and counterclockwise and noticing the results. I got the idea from theapplianceman's http://www.youtube.c...h?v=ieZ5y47TAMk

 

When in any spin cycle if the lid is down (so the switch is on), the tub drains and the agitator turns feebly. The basket does not spin at all. I have removed the spanner nut and found that the basket appears firmly fastened to the drive block. So firmly that I gave up trying to lift the basket up.



#5 fairbank56

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 02:15 PM

  So, when rotating input shaft CW, the clutch hub does not rotate? If that is the case, you may have a broken/mashed spin pawl, sheared spin pawl stud or a stripped spin gear. Gearcase is relatively easy to service and most parts are readily available.

 

Eric



#6 FrustratedDIY

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 02:55 PM

Yes, when rotating the input shaft CW, the clutch hub does not rotate. 

 

I'm not sure that I can easily service the transmission. I don't have a proper work area, vise/stand, or retaining clip tool. And my wife is already loosing patience with me. I looked at the parts list and can identify the Spin Gear (62570), Spin Pinion (63320), and Spin Pinion Seal (356427), but don't see a spin pawl or spin pawl stud. 

 

I'd consider buying a rebuilt transmission, but I have lingering concerns about the stiffness rotating the basket. I looked at new washers at the appliance store and all the baskets rotated freely. 



#7 fairbank56

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 03:28 PM

  Grab the brake cam driver and rotate it CCW. This should release the brakes and allow rotation of the basket. As I said, you can't normally rotate the basket from above because the brakes are engaged. The new washers are a totally different design and if you were looking at the Whirlpool (your Kenmore is a Whirlpool direct drive) replacement, belt drive, there is no brake and thus you can rotate the basket freely. The spin pawl and stud are part of the neutral drain mechanism.

 

Eric


Edited by fairbank56, 28 October 2013 - 03:30 PM.


#8 Scottthewolf

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 05:08 PM

Also keep in mind that the new washers are garbage and you really should try to repair this washer and keep it as long as you can.


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#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 05:26 PM

http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=2911
Neutral-Drain-kit-388253--00882046.jpg
includes
Neutral-Drain-kit-388253--00882374.jpg
 
# 26
O2001507-00010.png

Edited by RegUS_PatOff, 28 October 2013 - 07:55 PM.

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#10 FrustratedDIY

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 07:52 PM

Thanks, Eric. I did rotate the brake cam driver CCW, but the basket rotation is still quite stiff. I guess I'll try another gearbox. 

 

Thanks, RegUS_PatOff. Part # 388353 shows a price of $236.30 when it's not out of stock. Repair Clinic has the gearbox (3360629) for $186.35.



#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 07:57 PM

... Part # 388353 shows a price of $236.30

ooops... try again


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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#12 micabay

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 08:30 AM

Grab the brake cam driver and rotate it CCW. This should release the brakes and allow rotation of the basket. As I said, you can't normally rotate the basket from above because the brakes are engaged. The new washers are a totally different design and if you were looking at the Whirlpool (your Kenmore is a Whirlpool direct drive) replacement, belt drive, there is no brake and thus you can rotate the basket freely. The spin pawl and stud are part of the neutral drain mechanism.

Eric


As stated here, the future of cloths washers (in the states at least) is bleak. In the rare occasion one of these direct drives is left to slip off unto appliance heaven, we give it full due respect with the burial honors. While other machines we don't so much as bat an eyelash.

#13 certified tech group 51

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 10:02 AM

I made this stand to hold the gear box....4152011013.jpg..........Just set it up on the kitchen table and work away....And after you wake up from the bat to the side of your head   :wacko:  , you realize you should have placed an automotive floor mat down first on the kitchen table..........You can get a rebuilt one for 95 clam$ plus a 95 clam core charge, shipping not included..........OR........  a brand new one for 159 clam$ from PWS Laundry............( I think techs. only pricing )..............If your machine is not a rusted out hulk, the direct drive is worth keeping..........It is the only used washing machines I sell...................Sorry Maytag ...... the    "Ratlantis"..and other cheap-ass  units............



#14 FrustratedDIY

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Posted 15 November 2013 - 10:23 PM

Well, I found that the old brake cam driver which should have had two pins that engage the brake release cam was missing the pins - worn off or sheared off. I replaced the brake cam driver with the new one which came with the clutch, and now turning the brake cam driver CCW allows the basket to turn more freely, and with a new transmission the washer is fully operational. 

 

I hate to just trash the old transmission. Is there someone in southern New Hampshire who rebuilds transmissions and would like to have it?  I thought I might offer it to anyone who wants it for just the shipping costs, but when I stopped by the local Post Office to ask about shipping it using the same box I received it in, the counter clerk and the Postmaster went ballistic saying it could not be shipped that way because the transmission contained oil and I would have to label it with an "ORM-D" and specify the oil flash point! 






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