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Frigidaire gas dryer not so hot

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6 replies to this topic

#1 williwaws



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Posted 17 January 2006 - 07:00 PM

Be gentle, it's my first time.

My FSG748GFS0 dryer has recently (after 6+ years of dependable service) decided it wants to cycle through the heat cycle just once.  Having read sensai's web pages, I assumed the venting must be inadequate (or in this case diminished after six years of lint buildup).  So I ordered a vent brush and reamed that puppy good.  Got a few handfuls of lint out  (less than I would have imagined) and reconnected the dryer but no dice; it still only cycles once.  Sensai also says to disconnect and run without venting to determine if excessive back pressure is the cause.  I followed his advice and once again, no dice.   Watching the dryer in the dark, I can see that the ignitor glows (roughly six seconds) and I get gas ignition (once).  Subsequently, the gas is shutoff (so I assume the high limit thermostat is working okay) and as the temperature drops, the ignitor glows a second time but no ignition occurs.  If the dryer is stopped and allowed to rest for 10-15 minutes, I can start the whole shebang over again.  I can dry a load of clothes in say three to four hours so who am I to complain.  I picked up a handy dandy multimeter and started testing individual components following the master of appliantology's learned advice.  The ignitor has continuity as do the holding & boosting coil and the secondary coil.  Interestingly, the specs given for the whirlpool coils matches mine to a tee; however, the resistance from  4th to 5th contact (1275 ohms) was slightly outside the listed range of acceptable values (1220 +/- 50).  The radiant sensor appears defective; having metered it while completely disconnected and removed from the dryer, I could not get any appreciable measurement of resistance when shining a flashlight directly into the sensor window.  In other words, the resistance is the same in both darkness and bright light (approximately .4 ohms which I assume is merely the resistance of the wire).  That said, the wizened one suggests that if the RS were defective, I would be experiencing a different set of symptoms (as described on his web pages for novices such as myself).  I do not want to engage in the shotgun approach so I am seeking feedback.  Should I start with the RS or the coils (even though they appear to spec out)?  I took one additional measurement; the control thermostat which is rated at 2.95K ohms metered at 2944 ohms so I will assume that this component is fine too.   If the RS is shot, how am I achieving ignition the first time around?  So many questions, not enough beers. 

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#2 Budget Appliance Repair

Budget Appliance Repair


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Posted 18 January 2006 - 02:31 AM

Definitely the coils. They will only check bad if you check them right after ignition fails and if you wait to long to check them they will show as good on the meter after the cool down again.

This is common problem for the coils to break down internally as they heat up after the first cycle of heat.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#3 williwaws



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Posted 18 January 2006 - 08:18 AM

Thanks for the rapid response and tip.  I'll give it a shot tonight and let you know what the meter reads when the coils are still warm.  If you're correct, you saved me $20 as the RS retails for twice the price of a new set of coils. THANKS!!!

#4 williwaws



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Posted 19 January 2006 - 09:59 AM

Well, you wuz right cuz.  I metered the coils while hot and two of the three readings were outside of the allowable limits.  As one would expect, the readings were all higher than when taken cold (as temperature and resistance have a linear relationship).   So, i guess there are two choices as to how i can resolve this issue.  I can attempt to supercool the coils (but if you think i suck at dryers, i really suck at refrigeration) or replace them.  I ordered a set from sensei's favorite online merchant and will share the outcome.   Once again, THANKS!!! 

#5 williwaws



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Posted 29 December 2013 - 09:30 PM

Okay, it's eight years later and the coils appear to be shot again but I have a new symptom.  As the igniter begins to glow, a rattling occurs for about 4-5 seconds.  The thermostat seems fine as the dryer wants to fire the burner and the igniter is definitely working as it heats up and glows.  Any suggestions as to what could be causing this rattling?

#6 -Mike-



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Posted 30 December 2013 - 12:25 AM

Sounds like a coil problem again.

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 10:31 AM

Replacement gas valve coild:  http://www.repaircli...5303931775/3449


Comes with a 365-day Return Policy:  http://www.repaircli...r/Return-Policy

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