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Lisa Hund

Problem with heating Jenn-Air WM30420W wall oven

26 posts in this topic

Hi!  We have been having this issue for several months...have replaced the temperature probe and that did not fix the issue...

Turn the oven on regular or convect bake, it will not heat up properly.  If you turn on the broiler, (which works fine) and bring it to temperature, then go back to bake, it will not keep the oven at temperature.  You can hear the relays clicking but the temperature continues to drop.  If I go back to the broiler setting for a minute, then back to bake, sometimes it will kick in and bring the oven back to temperature.  Most times NOT.

I am pretty sure it is the control board/ERC/timer (?) but I dont want to spend $300+ based on my uneducated guess and find out it still isn't fixed.  HELP!?


Sorry - Need to correct the Model Number - WM30460W.

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... You can hear the relays clicking but the temperature continues to drop.

what does the Oven Temperature Display read ?

actual temperature ?

OR user set temperature ?

 

Have you used Self-Clean lately ?  :nono:

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When on preheat, it displays actual temperature.  When it is on bake (after getting it to temperature) it displays the set temp.  If I am using the oven, I have to set bake and desired temp to get it to display actual.  Thats when you find out that although you set it for 350 degrees, it is down to 300 or whatever.

Guilty - I have NOT used self-clean lately.  You think that will help?  The oven is around 15 years old (I think).

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... I have NOT used self-clean lately.  You think that will help? 

 

:nono: NO, don't EVER use Self-Clean

 

If it's not the Sensor (Broil Works)

then it's either the Oven Controller

OR the Relay Board

I'm not sure at this time..

will have to study it

OR another user may know.

 

 

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Okay - I will wait to hear from you.  Curious - why not ever use self clean?

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...  Curious - why not ever use self clean?

 

“My Rules”:

Rule #1) Don't ever use Self-Clean on any Oven.

Rule #2) If you're thinking about using Self-Clean, see rule #1.

Self-Clean uses nearly 1000F for 3 hours or more. burnin.gif

That can wreak havoc on Electronic Controllers and Connections.

 

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If you turn on the broiler, (which works fine) and bring it to temperature, then go back to bake, it will not keep the oven at temperature. You can hear the relays clicking but the temperature continues to drop.

This sounds like a bad bake element. Have you ohmed out the bake element? If not, be sure to kill the breaker before removing the element to test it. Should get in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.

Replacement bake element: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Bake-Element/W10310258/1810287

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Sorry, I wanted to have the ohm level tested before I got back on here.  He tested it at about 21 ohms.  Not sure if this is within an acceptable range?

Should the relay keep clicking?  Whenever it is trying to come back on to maintain desired temperature, you can hear the relay click on, then again a few seconds later.  Then it will wait 10-15 seconds and they do the same thing.  Once in a while, it will work and the temp will come up, but the next time, it likely will fail and the temp will drop.  

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Relay clicking... good element... no heat... I usually see these things with a bad ERC (control board).  Usually a bad relay on the board.  

 

You can verify with a voltage measurement at the element terminals, should get 240vac.  This would be a live test, fire in the hole, arcy-sparky if those terminals touch the oven while energized.  

 

Replacement ERC:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/71001799/695128

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.. I usually see these things with a bad ERC (control board).  Usually a bad relay on the board.  

yes, usually,

but there is no Relay on this Controller ...

This model uses separate Relay Board(s)

May be bad Controller

OR

one of the Relay Board(s)

 

Are these symptoms for the

upper Oven ?

OR

the lower Oven ?

OR

both ?

 

 

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If you are speaking of the upper or lower element, it is the lower element..  The upper (broiler) works fine.

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This is a dual Oven ?

upper Oven

lower Oven

 

Are these symptoms for the

upper Oven ?

OR

the lower Oven ?

OR

both ?

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No.  Single oven, Microwave above.

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No.  Single oven, Microwave above.

sorry, Maytags Parts & Instruction manual website is confusing for that model

parts manual WW30460W

retrieves WW30430W

http://www.maytag.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20WM30460W.pdf

 

user manual

http://www.maytag.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%208111P343-60.pdf

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Confusing manuals seems to be the theme since they all went overseas and the manuals are printed in multiple languages.

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Okay, tested the output of the relay board and, on the "bake" function, the relay puts out 0 volts (with yellow wire to heat element disconnected).  Red wire (opposite side of heat element) shows 118 volts.

The relay clicks but there is no output voltage present.

 

Does this sound more like a bad relay board?

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you'd have to measure the Coil voltage of the Relay to see if it's being "told" to energize...

It may be 24v DC

 

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Will check, but would it click if it wasn't being told to energize?

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... but would it click if it wasn't being told to energize?

 

OK, it's being told to energize, but we still don't know which Board is failing ...

 

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Pull the relay board and check the back/solder side of the board at all the relays and wire connection terminals.  Most likely just a burnt/bad solder joint on the relay.

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Normally, I would agree, but that would usually affect the larger, current carrying connections.

She's saying she can hear the Relay clicking ON / OFF

 

 

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Very common to hear exactly that, the relays are clicking - the relay load carrying contact points are open/closing but not carrying a load because usually will find solder joints melted/broken from bad/cold solder joints.

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oh.. I though she meant the Relays were "clicking" ON / OFF, (fast)

when they should be staying ON

 

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Gentlemen, I don't see a way to upload a picture on here or I would show you what we found.  My husband took out the relay board to check for burned/broken solder points.  He found none, BUT what we did find was that the contact points for the bake relay were worn and carbon covered, and did not appear to be able to even make contact.  He cleaned them and bent the point to ensure better contact.  He put it back together and the oven is working normally.

I am ordering a new relay board, as this one is definitely on it's last leg.

 

Thank you for all of your help and suggestions!  You definitely led us to the solution.  So glad I did not buy a new control board!  

Cheers, Slainte, bottoms up, and all of that!  If I could, I would buy you one!

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