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Whirlpool Duet Sport model WFW8300SW04 locked


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11 replies to this topic

#1 j440

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Posted 03 November 2013 - 04:36 PM

This front load washer stopped in spin cycle and wouldn't drain. The door was locked and wouldn't open. I drained the water, manually unlatched the door and cleaned the filter. The filter was not clogged but had a couple coins in it. If you try to run a regular wash cycle it will lock the door and flash Add A Garment when you press the start button. Pressing cancel will unlock the controls and flash the time remaining but holding it down will not unlock the door. The 4 codes that are stored are F21, F21, F21, and F01. I have had to clean the filter before so I believe that is where all the F21 codes come from. I am pretty sure that the F01 is a very old code. Anyway, continuing to the diagnostic test all goes well until the first test actually starts. Then the Rinse / Spin light stays on and the Door Locked light stays on. It is locked now until the machine is unplugged. It will not do the test manually either. The pump shows 12 ohms through the pins. I took the pump out and there was water inside it. I did actually get to pump to come on once. I had the select knob on Drain / Spin and pressed the Start button. It locked up so I unplugged the machine and plugged it back in quickly which caused the pump to run. This is the only output I have gotten from the machine other than the door locking. Thanks for any response.



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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 09:35 AM

 I took the pump out and there was water inside it. I did actually get to pump to come on once. 

 

 

You have a bad drain pump:  http://www.repaircli...0130913/1373005



#3 certified tech group 51

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 09:44 AM

Had one with the same complaint............Door locks but no start, could not run diagnostic test...............( Do not know what your F-21 code is )..................Replaced the  microcomputer        A.K.A..... machine control....P/N  W10160252   now  P/N W10205839...............Unit up and running............350 clam$ for the repair...........



#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 09:51 AM

Good info, CTG.  

 

I should have directed j440 to hot wire the pump or to measure the voltage at the pump to ensure that it was getting the full 120vac when it's supposed to run.  If it is, that would clearly implicate the pump.  Otherwise, bad CCU, as you found.  

 

The other thing he mentioned was water in the pump.  I assumed he meant in the winding section of the pump, which I have seen before.  But perhaps he simply meant the normal residual in the impeller, which is neither remarkable nor unusual.  Maybe j440 can clarify for us.  



#5 certified tech group 51

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 09:53 AM

I did not try to replace the pump first cuz the maintenance guy replaced the pump and it still did not operate............So I get the call.............Do not know  if the maint. guy did more damage messing around with it  that required the control............. ............. the pump is cheaper and in stock at Repair Clinic........



#6 j440

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 04:52 PM

The water was actually inside the rotor housing. I also notice that the end of the axle shaft is worn down some too. But, When I straight wire the motor it runs. I have 120V on the plug for the pump with it unplugged. When I plug in the motor and probe the wires, I have 12V and the motor will not run plugged in to the washer. Would a bad CCU show 120v but under load show only 12. I see that I need a new pump. I'm just not sure that the pump is the only problem. With the pump and CCU I'm about half way to the cost of a new washer.



#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 09:39 PM

Would a bad CCU show 120v but under load show only 12.

Absotootly! Failing under load is a common failure presentation in these boards.

http://www.repaircli...ber=WFW8300SW04

#8 j440

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 02:12 PM

I had a slight brain malfunction. I was measuring voltage drop across the pump. It has 120 V from the + on the plug to ground with the motor plugged in. I will put in a pump and let you know.



#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 06:12 PM

The pump is the only load in that circuit when energized. So the voltage drop across the pump *should* be 120vac. And voltage measurements are normally made with the load connected.

#10 j440

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 07:23 PM

New pump didn't fix it. I have to decide now whether to replace the control board or just buy another washing machine.



#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 07:41 PM

New pump didn't fix it. I have to decide now whether to replace the control board or just buy another washing machine.

 

 

Why did you replace the pump?  We were pointing you to the CCU, oh ye of little faith.

 

No worries, mate.  Since you undoubtedly bought the part through the parts search box at this site (right?), you can return it for a refund.  Unless you were one of the unfortunate ones who went dumpster diving at Ebay (in which case, all I can say is, "Solly, Cholly!").

 

But let's assume you're one of the Wise Grasshoppahs (notwithstanding the fact that you replaced the wrong part) and you bought the part here.  Why, you just unfurl that brow and unbunch them panties cuz you return that ding-dang thang for a refund and come git you a control board:  http://www.repaircli...0525351/2979539

 

Can I hear an "Amen?"



#12 j440

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Posted 13 November 2013 - 07:49 PM

I knew the pump was bad already. It was noisy with lots of play from a worn shaft and there was water in the motor housing. I was just hoping the motor was the only problem.






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