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Samsung rb1855vq/xaa frig does not cool but freezer is OK


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8 replies to this topic

#1 dasronin

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Posted 03 November 2013 - 06:07 PM

This morning after getting milk for my coffee, the refrigerator starting beeping like when the door is left ajar. I noticed the temperature display was OK for the freezer but the refrigerator temp was above the desired temp and after watching it, it kept getting warmer. The refrigerator was obviously not cooling.

 

While moving things out to another refrigerator after several door openings the interior light was not lit up. Depressing the door switch did nothing. After several more door opening (to include one to see if the bulb was burnt out –it was not) the light started working but when the door was closed (or the door switch was pressed) the light stayed on.

 

The fan for the refrigerator was also noticed to not be running. Since the light was not function correctly and the fan was not running, and both are controlled by the PC board, I suspect there is a problem with the PCB and not the light, light switch, or fan motor.

 

I do not know what voltage outputs are, nor ohm values to check for continuity on any components/wires… I can only deduct that the PCB is the most likely failure to effect fan and interior light of the refrigerator.

The freezer works perfectly, temp, temp control, interior light.

 

Thanks!



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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 03 November 2013 - 07:48 PM

RB1855V*

included in RB1844 Fast track.pdf

http://appliantology...-bundle-1-of-5/

Samsung Refrigerator Fast Track Manuals Bundle - 1 of 5
RF26XAE Fast track R1 optimized.pdf
RF26XAZ Fast track R1.pdf
RF195AB Fast track.pdf
RF197AC Fast Track.pdf
RF197ACBP Fast Track.pdf
RF197ACPN Fast Track.pdf
RF263AE Fast track R1 optimized.pdf
RF265AA-AB-AC Fast track R1.pdf
RF265AD Fast track R1.pdf
RF266AA-AB-AC Fast track R1.pdf
RF266AD Fast track R1.pdf
RF266AE Fast track.pdf
RB195AB Fast track.pdf
RB195AC Fast track.pdf
RB195BS RB195ZA Fast track.pdf
RB1844 Fast track.pdf
RF26VAB-AC Fast track R2.pdf
RF26VAD Fast track R2.pdf
 
Samsung Refrigerator Service Manual
RB1855VQ

SAM0088.pdf

.

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#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 07:19 AM

To download manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice:  http://apprentice.appliantology.org/



#4 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 07:32 AM

I'm not sure I understand your reasons for ignoring the obvious... the door switch? Are you assuming the door switch is just a light switch and does not affect fan operations? If it was only connected to the lights then how would your fridge know and subsequently inform you the door was ajar?

Rule #1 rule out the obvious, especially if replacing it is inexpensive.
Rule #2 become an apprentice and more things will become obvious.
Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.

#5 dasronin

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 04:29 PM

I'm not sure I understand your reasons for ignoring the obvious... the door switch? Are you assuming the door switch is just a light switch and does not affect fan operations? If it was only connected to the lights then how would your fridge know and subsequently inform you the door was ajar?

Rule #1 rule out the obvious, especially if replacing it is inexpensive.
Rule #2 become an apprentice and more things will become obvious.

For one thing... the door switch does not interupt the refrigerator operation. The refrigerator is not cooling nor is the fan operating. When the door switch is pressed under normal operation you hear a relay click to cut power to the light socket. The relay does not trip. The light stays on with no function of the button and turns off after 10 minutes... as indicated in the service manual.

 

I have had two very short power brown-outs the last week. The service manual indicated if the light acts as I have discovered the PC board should be replaced (if the door switch is not bad). It also indicates if the regrig fan does not work it can be the fan motor or the PCB. Since the light became problematic exactly the same time the refrigerator quit cooling... and factor in the power brown outs... I am more prone to suspect the PCB is the fault since the PCB controls both the fan and the door light relay operation.

 

If only the light was acting up and PCB was "thinking" the door was open and the beeping was triggered to indicate "door open"... AND the refigerator was cooling, I would suspect the door switch was bad. BUT additionally the refrig in not coolinc, but the freezer is... AND the light is not functioning as described above. I believe the problem is not the door switch. If the door switch was bad the refrig would cool!



#6 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 05:58 PM

Are you sure we are reading from the same service manual?....if so, check out the flow chart on page 28 entitled "if the refrigerator fan doesn't work.....

 

Pertinent part  reads:

 

"Is fan moving with a condition that door sw is pressed?.....If you answer N then it asks "is fridge temperature(thermostat) on?"  If yes to that then it asks "Is door switch normal"  if yes then you check micom power....if No "exchange door switch."

 

So how are you certain the door switch is fine? I suggest you test / replace it before buying a board. Although it happens, especially if you experience brown outs (make sure to use surge protectors) Samsung boards rarely fail. 

 

 You said the temps were ok for the freezer  but no cooling for the fridge....a non working fan can cause your fresh food section not to cool. 

 

Also, your dual evap fridge does not use a diverter so  refrigerant passes through the ff evap before it enters the freezer evap.  If your freezer is at proper temps, therefore assuming the evap is fine ( I would still check frost pattern), then your fridge evap must be okay as well. They are not separate systems so even a failed  board cannot bypass your fridge evap and cool your freezer evap. So based upon your description, your fridge must be cooling but the air is not circulating OR your freezer is on its way out as well. 


Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.

#7 dasronin

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 07:13 PM

Are you sure we are reading from the same service manual?....if so, check out the flow chart on page 28 entitled "if the refrigerator fan doesn't work.....

 

Pertinent part  reads:

 

"Is fan moving with a condition that door sw is pressed?.....If you answer N then it asks "is fridge temperature(thermostat) on?"  If yes to that then it asks "Is door switch normal"  if yes then you check micom power....if No "exchange door switch."

 

So how are you certain the door switch is fine? I suggest you test / replace it before buying a board. Although it happens, especially if you experience brown outs (make sure to use surge protectors) Samsung boards rarely fail. 

 

 You said the temps were ok for the freezer  but no cooling for the fridge....a non working fan can cause your fresh food section not to cool. 

Well... I removed the door switch unit to test it. I will be ordering a door switch.

 

I did a continuity test and of the four pins, and it appeared that each switch connected to three pins when the button was depressed. It did not meter out as two simple normally open switches. It seemed that there was a common pin (a third switching action shared by both). Since the switch is cheap... I opened the switch to understand the third common pin. There were two normally open switches, one for freezer and one for refrigerator. When the button is depressed it not only closes the contact for the specific door AN arm of the switch (actially both switch buttons) functions a contact for the two center pins on the back of the switch. As I was metering the switch while dissassembled... a pin for the refrigerator side broke in half. I do not know if that was the problem with the unit, or if I broke it when opening and testing the switch!

 

So... no doubt... I will be replacing that switch!!! (and buying a spare as the terminals seem fragile)  :wacko:  Until that switch arrives (Thursday or Friday)... all trouble shooting comes to a halt!!!

 

Anyway... thanks for the help so far. When I get the door switch I will update my progress. Actually I hope you are correct and it is the door switch that is the problem!! If not I will be picking your brain more.  Thanks so far!



#8 dasronin

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 07:08 PM

Problem solved!

 

Thanks to everyone who posted!!

 

The faulty part was the refrigerator door switch!!  Since in two weeks we had 3 brown outs/spikes I really was thinking something on the PC board had fried. Many many years ago I was a radio repairman and electronics instructor in the Army. The problems were almost always the PCB. So I guess I went back to the old school stuff, and was expecting to see a smoked component on the PCB

 

Also... I really do not understand the logic of the engineering of a door switch failing and the unit no longer cools. I imagine whoever designed it all could present the logic of this. I ordered a PC board just incase, and will be returning it and getting a spare door switch!

 

Again thanks!!!



#9 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 01:05 AM

Problem solved!
 
 
Also... I really do not understand the logic of the engineering of a door switch failing and the unit no longer cools. I imagine whoever designed it all could present the logic of this. I ordered a PC board just incase, and will be returning it and getting a spare door switch!
 
Again thanks!!!


Glad you fixed it. However, your statement "the fridge no longer cools" is not truly an accurate description since the compressor is running and your fresh food evaporator is fine. Your problem involved air circulation. It is quite common for evaporator fans to stop running when the door is open to prevent the fridge from drawing in outside air. Thus there is logic behind it and, in your case, your fridge actually informed you of the problem. Although defending appliance engineers is anathema to me, I have to side with them on this issue.
Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.




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