Jump to content



Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


To get started, click here.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

GE Profile PDW7880G00SS not cleaning


  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 geprofilehater

geprofilehater

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 4 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Alaskan Summer Ale (Koelsch)

Posted 04 November 2013 - 11:01 AM

Hi! My fine GE Profile stopped cleaning well. I cleaned all the white gookus that was clogging the spray arms, several times. I think I got it all. The sump filter (508) was almost, if not completely clogged. I've cleaned out a metric ton of white gookus, but it's probably still about 20-30% clogged, based on looking down from above. Also the coarse filter (502), the screen in the bottom of the tub, has quite a bit of accumulation that I can't remove from above. I think I'd like to remove and clean them both. The sump seems to prevent the coarse filter from being removed, and I can't figure out how to remove the sump. I've sqeezed and pulled on the sump pretty hard, and it seems to be well attached. I assume it's somehow held in to the inlet sump (505) by the clamp to the drain pump, or something else I can't see.

 

On this journey I joined and downloaded the "Triton XL" Technical Service Guide in hopes of finding some help with disassembly, but alas except for some pictures, it simply covers the general operation of the "Circulation System" and "Drain system". No help with how to take it apart.

 

So, any hints on how to remove the sump and coarse filter? Don't do it? I need to pull out the machine and do it from "below"? Have a better idea? Thanks.

 



Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 bigbuck

bigbuck

    Sōhei

  • Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 236 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Red Wine

Posted 04 November 2013 - 11:42 AM

https://dl.dropboxus...Manual copy.pdf

Hope this helps.



#3 PDuff

PDuff

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,011 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bud Ice (Yeah, I know)

Posted 04 November 2013 - 11:53 AM

Sounds like you're getting a lot of calcium in with your water that's presenting poor washability.  Might want to check the water inlet valve for possible restriction that could affect the water level during fill.



#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,810 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 04 November 2013 - 01:22 PM

Are you making one of the Big Three Deadly Dishwasher Mistakes?  http://appliantology...asher-mistakes/



#5 geprofilehater

geprofilehater

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 4 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Alaskan Summer Ale (Koelsch)

Posted 04 November 2013 - 11:24 PM

@bigbuck: Thanks, but that's not the same model (mine's not nearly that fancy), and it doesn't seem to cover removal of the sump. Perhaps I missed it.

 

@PDuff: Thank you. It seems to fill full based on the water height at the float switch, but I'll double check that and verify against the timings.

 

@Samuri: I'm honored by your response. I'm certainly violating numero uno (ichi?), and bonus tip #2. I'm ready to change my ways. However, would it make sense to start from "clean" to begin the journy to enlightenment and achieve full washing flow?

 

So, no respones to my actual question about removing the sump filter and coarse filter for cleaning? I could easily be encouraged to contribute to the beer fund.



#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,810 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 05 November 2013 - 03:48 AM

 

So, any hints on how to remove the sump and coarse filter? Don't do it? I need to pull out the machine and do it from "below"? Have a better idea? Thanks.

 

Are you referring to the stainless steel filter in the sump?  http://www.repaircli...22X10029/943467

 

That's a curious piece.  GE is schizophrenic about it.  On page 17 of Technical Service Guide 31-9083, they refer this this piece as the "fine filter."  Yet, on the parts breakdown, page 35, they refer to it as a "coarse filter."  Why can't they make up their mind?

 

Looking at the breakdown on page 34, pull off the spray arm, unscrew the locking collar, unclip the upper spray arm feed stub from the hub and turn the hub 1/4 turn CCW to remove.  Lift out the cheesy nylon filter ring.  Unclip and remove the inlet cover.  You now have access to the inlet sump.  

 

If you want to remove the schizo filter, you're on your own.  I've never done that on these dishwashers.  Never needed to.  

 

To remove/replace the drain pump and flapper valves, the dishwasher needs to be removed from the installation.  



#7 geprofilehater

geprofilehater

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 4 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Alaskan Summer Ale (Koelsch)

Posted 05 November 2013 - 07:18 PM

> Are you referring to the stainless steel filter in the sump?

 

Yes, that and the perforated grey plastic cup under the inlet cover, called the "filter sump" in the parts breakdown.

 

> On page 17 of Technical Service Guide 31-9083, they refer this this piece as the "fine filter."  Yet, on the parts breakdown, page 35, they refer to it as a "coarse filter."  Why can't they make up their mind?

 

That's why I used the "reference numbers" from the parts breakdown in my original post! :-) I think they screwed up the picture and text on p. 17-19, the "cheesy nylon filter ring" is called the "fine filter" in the parts breakdown. The names for both of those in the parts breakdown make more sense, to me.

 

> If you want to remove the schizo filter, you're on your own.  I've never done that on these dishwashers.  Never needed to.

 

Okay, thanks. Well, now I have removed both of them, and it's clear that I certainly needed to! There was an accumulation of white gookus on the underside of the stainless ("coarse filter") screen, up to about 3/4 inch thick, that completely blocked more than 1 square foot of area of the filter and filling the space between the screen and the tub bottom. The "filter sump" was also still quite blocked. I'm fairly certain the pump was cavitating due to low flow (a surging of water and motor sounds every second or two while running), that is completely gone after cleaning it.

 

For the benefit of others in the same situation, here's how I removed them: Follow instructions elsewhere to access and remove the inlet cover, such as Samuri's above. The filter sump holds down the screen, so it needs to come out first. The filter sump has two plastic catches, one on each of the front and rear sides, that lock into catches on the plastic tub. You can't see them before you take it out, unless you have the newer updated filter sump. You may be able to squeeze the sides together using the "ears" that the inlet cover clips to and pull up. Mine wouldn't budge. So while squeezing the sides and applying an upward pull, I ran a small, long screwdriver down between the screen and the plastic cup. Doing this on the front and rear sides released the filter sump cup. Then the coarse filter screen can be removed. Chunks of white gookus may fall down into the inlet sump below, so crawl into the tub with a light and clean them out so they don't go through the pump, plugging the holes in the spray arms that you previously cleaned trying to fix this problem before.

 

I used a putty knife to gently scrape the gookus off the screen and cup, and then lots of hot water and a stiff scrub brush, and soaked overnight in vinegar (not sure that last part really helped.) I used a pointy tool (awl) and/or toothpicks to clear the more stubborn holes in both parts. To reassemble, reverse the steps.

 

Lastly, I followed the Deadly Mistakes link above posted by Samuri and ordered the Finish Powerball tablets mentioned in Deadly Mistake Numero Uno. I hope Samuri gets something for the referral. Then I ordered the new updated filter sump from RepairClinic, which is almost all holes instead of the measly 2 square inches mine has. I still need to order some sort of dishwasher cleaner as mentioned in Tip #2 on the Deadly Mistakes page.

 

I feel I've taken the first steps towards enlightenment. Sorry for the long post. Thanks all for the help.



#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,810 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 06 November 2013 - 08:48 AM

Great job and fantastic battle report-- a worthy and valuable addition to this Borg of Appliantological Wisdom!  



#9 Spannerwrench

Spannerwrench

    Senpai

  • Master Appliantologist
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 736 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Maxwell House > Black Crown > Crown Royal with Ginger Ale

Posted 07 November 2013 - 10:37 AM

I prefer the Finish Quantum over the Finish Powerballs, while they may look the same, they are different.

"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

"Occam's RAZOR 'the simplest answer is most often correct'"


#10 geprofilehater

geprofilehater

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 4 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Alaskan Summer Ale (Koelsch)

Posted 07 November 2013 - 11:00 AM

I prefer the Finish Quantum over the Finish Powerballs, while they may look the same, they are different.

 

Care to elaborate on the reason for your preference?



#11 Spannerwrench

Spannerwrench

    Senpai

  • Master Appliantologist
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 736 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Maxwell House > Black Crown > Crown Royal with Ginger Ale

Posted 07 November 2013 - 11:57 AM

I've had better results with Quantum. The ingredients are separated better which makes them more effective. Also the shell that dissolves actually takes the surface tension off the water to soften it before the detergent is released. Quantum also has the most efficient enzyme.

Edited by Spannerwrench, 07 November 2013 - 12:37 PM.

"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

"Occam's RAZOR 'the simplest answer is most often correct'"





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics