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Patricio

Kenmore gas dryer 110.70022011

12 posts in this topic

This dryer got me stumped.  Ignitor shows 70 ohms, coil primary are within tolerances, secondary a little high.   I have 122v to coil, ignitor & flame sensor.  Limits & fuses have continuity.   I suspect ignitor because I installed new coils & it is still not glowing.

I am lost, something simple I'm sure.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

... I have 122v to ... ignitor ....

 

122v volts, measured across the Ignitor while everything is still connected ?

 

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120v from blue wire to ignitor using chassis ground.  I will have to check across ignitor, I just checked resistance & examined ignitor leads.  Connector would not allow me to check across ignitor.  I have to find a way.   My point is I have the voltage to all the components.    I should be able to rule out the coils they are downstream from the sensor & ignitor.   I would have used a ignitor, thought I had a fat one in stock but I only had round.

 

The customer said that dryer work intermittently until Tuesday & that it did not seem to dry completely (venting issue).  I am not getting any glow to the ignitor.   I jumped the flame sensor & still not getting anything.

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While the Drum Motor is running, you should have 0v at the Black wire on the Coil,

If not, measure again while someone holds the Start Button

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Went back on this one & tested for 120v across ignitor, I had 0v.  I tested at the connector with it connected, Lt Blue to chassis ground 120v   black to chassis 120v.

 

Now the kicker is while talking to customer I mentioned timer problems I had on other machines.  He told me that his unit would not run in air fluff sometimes.  I immediately went to fluff cycle unit would not run.  Manhandling the timer I got it to run, intermittently.   Next I switched to timed dry & manhandled timer got coil to click & ignitor to glow & pull over 4 amps before it shut off.   Did it again & got the valve to open but the ignitor vent out, valve stayed open until I pulled the connection off the 2 wire coil.

 

Next manhandleling timer I got the unit to light up & go out.  Again holding timer as unit fired up burner stayed lit as long as I put pressure on timer knob.  When I let go out it went.

 

Diagnose:   Need a new timer I would say.    Still trying to understand electrical flow.

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... While the Drum Motor is running, you should have 0v at the Black wire on the Coil,

 

... black to chassis 120v.

with the Drum Motor running ?

 

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drum motor running yes

Edited by Patricio

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While the Drum Motor is running, you should have 0v at the Black wire on the Coil,

If not, measure again while someone holds the Start Button

 

If there's 120v at the Black wire, that would indicate the Centrifugal Switch on the Drum Motor is bad (or full of lint)

If you hold in the Start Switch, the Ignitor should glow, etc ...

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The motor runs except in air fluff which will run when timer knob is wiggled.   When I wiggle the timer knob in heat cycle I can get ignitor to glow.  I hear some click noise when timer is manipulated, I tried to isolate noise & the best source that I find is the gas valve coil.   I wiggled the harness connection at the motor & get nothing there.     By the way I have the drum out of the cabinet so I have open access to every thing.

 

Just when I think I figured it out you throw a wrench into the works & have me second guessing myself, again.  Keep teaching me. :tongue:

 

I did vacuum the motor, what do you suggest next?    

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I think you are going to need a timer.

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I say timer as well.  Put a jumper on the burner and run it direct to see if it lights.  eliminate the burner as a problem. 

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