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Frigidaire Electric Range Troubleshooting

Frigidair Electric Range FEFL78CQA Oven temp sensor

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8 replies to this topic

#1 MTC(SS)

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 08:53 PM

  I have a Frigidaire oven that both the broiler and bake elements are not heating. Resistance on bake element was 16 ohms and on broiler was 14.5 (don't recall if that was K).  The controller is an "ES 300" and appears to be functioning properly, fault codes, operational, etc. Door switch functioning, Stove top works, clock works.    Elements not receiving power.  I checked the temperature sensor and it indicated an open.  However, when I actually removed from temp sensor from the circuit and applied power, I received the F3 fault code, and still indicated OL. 

 

  Can a faulty temp sensor prevent power from reaching the oven elements?  The service manual states temp sensor resistance should be between 800 and 3K ohms.  It seems odd to me that the Fault code was not indicated while the part was installed, yet had no continuity, but when removed, the fault code was displayed. 

 

  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I am ordering the sensor but am still unsure if that is my entire problem. 

 

Thanks

Jeff MTC(SS)


Edited by MTC(SS), 07 November 2013 - 08:54 PM.


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 11:18 PM

... bake element was 16 ohms and on broiler was 14.5 (don't recall if that was K). 
... I checked the temperature sensor and it indicated an open.
... temp sensor resistance should be between 800 and 3K ohms.

1) readings sound OK, unless they were K = x times 1000)
2) open ?
3) should read about 1.1K = 1100 OHMs at room temperature
Is you OHM meter set to the correct range ?
 
The problem sounds like a bad Oven Controller ...
have you recently used Self-Clean ? :nono:
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1056306
Oven-Control-Board-316207529-01202782.jp


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#3 MTC(SS)

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 06:47 AM

O.k. I recheck "R" on sensor, yep about 1.1K.  However, according to step 1. and 2. of the ES 300 Troubleshooting section "No Heat" for both broiler and bake, With the oven not programed, I received  approx. 0 volts drop between BA and Neutral and the same for BR to Neutral.  Once  programed to the associated element I received 0 volts to either element.  I think it is the wiring.  I am probably wrong but the controller seems to be functioning in all other areas fine.  Is it possible for the wiring to go out to both elements at the same time.  Actually the unit is in a rental and there is no telling how the fault occurred.  Judging by the condition of the stove when returned to me, no self clean had not been used in a while.   Why the no, no icon for that question?   Thanks



#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 07:29 AM

... Once  programed to the associated element I received 0 volts to either element.

... Why the no, no icon for that question?  

1) that's one of the functions of the Controller ...

check to make sure there's 240v between L1 and L2 IN on the Oven Controller

2) Self-Clean  :woot:

“My Rules”:
Rule #1) Don't ever use Self-Clean on any Oven.
Rule #2) If you're thinking about using Self-Clean, see rule #1.
Self-Clean uses nearly 1000F for 3 hours or more. burnin.gif
That can wreak havoc on Electronic Controllers and Connections.


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#5 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 08:27 AM

Did you check to see if you are getting 120 volts from BA to Neutral when programmed for bake and 120 volts from BR to Neutral when programmed for broil?   You seem to only mention you check this in OFF and got 0 volt reading which would be correct.

 

Since both don't work I would suspect the DBL (Double Line Break relay - or solder connections usually bad).  You could pull the L2 in and L2 out wires and connect them together with a jumper wire then try it again - I'm pretty sure that is going to be the problem.


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 08:36 AM

...  Once  programed to the associated element I received 0 volts to either element.

also, external no DLB Relay on this model,

but the on-board DLB Relay may have some solder connection problems

 

 


Edited by RegUS_PatOff, 08 November 2013 - 06:48 PM.

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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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#7 MTC(SS)

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 03:29 PM

Thanks for the info.  I did not mention, but yes I was getting 120v BA to Neutral and 120 BR to neutral when set respectively.



#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 03:35 PM

... yes I was getting 120v BA to Neutral and 120 BR to neutral when set respectively.

can't always use Neutral as a reference when working on 240v appliances ...

Disconnect the BA and BR, THEN measure from each Board Terminal to Neutral,

and then measure from each wire to Neutral

There may be 120v at each Terminal,

but I'm guessing you wont "see" the L2 voltage coming from the L2 OUT at the Elements.

 

 


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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#9 MTC(SS)

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 04:45 PM

Makes sense, thanks.  I will check when I go over in the morning. 







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Frigidair Electric Range, FEFL78CQA, Oven temp sensor

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